Front brake lever

[Bronco Billy]

Might as well replace the piston in the master cylinder. You can get one from motobins with the new seals already on fairly cheap. Put new washers on the banjo union as well when you build it back up. Have a look inside the master cylinder for any signs of corrosion etc. Minor stuff can be smoothed out with fine emery cloth.

Got to be worth a strip down mate. Easy to do and its one less thing to eliminate. You can also set the plunger at the correct level as well then..

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

if it doesn't pump up - its not the mc seals.

sounds like a failing hose or air in system.

also - the wheel cylinder seals will grab the piston after a while due to corrosion behind the seal - causing a long lever.

use pipe clamps on the hose at various points to check for air or soft hoses.

 

[nunesaf]

if it doesn't pump up - its not the mc seals.

sounds like a failing hose or air in system.

also - the wheel cylinder seals will grab the piston after a while due to corrosion behind the seal - causing a long lever.

use pipe clamps on the hose at various points to check for air or soft hoses.

Thanks guys for all the support,
I guess I have to carefully plan the brakes service and in fact it is better to do it thoroughly. And by doing so, I would also be keen on replacing the brake lines and by stainless steel ones. Would the GS1200 be similar? Or would you recommend other OEM?

I will start by adjusting the screw and see what happens. And indeed the master cylinder may need a bit of TLC...

Cheers

 

[Welshman]

Thanks guys for all the support,
I guess I have to carefully plan the brakes service and in fact it is better to do it thoroughly. And by doing so, I would also be keen on replacing the brake lines and by stainless steel ones. Would the GS1200 be similar? Or would you recommend other OEM?

I will start by adjusting the screw and see what happens. And indeed the master cylinder may need a bit of TLC...

Cheers

My 99 1150 was similar, the bottom brake hoses to the caliper were ready to go, age plus excessive UV at 1600m in Africa.

Welsh

 

[nunesaf]

Hi all,
Finally this weekend, I will change the piston of the master cylinder. It is said in the Haynes manual that I should remove the banjo bolt etc... I wonder, is this really necessary? I simply don't understand why and would like to avoid it. If it is because of the oil level, couldn't I simply drain it a bit more to make sure it doesn't spill over the master cylinder?

Thanks

 

[Rolf]

I had similar problem with my K1200RS, couldn't get rid of the sponginess despite bleeding and cleaning calipers out - took it to BMW dealers who said calipers were worn, and moving slightly because of this, and would need replacing. Traded the bike in soon after (to the same dealers).

 

[nunesaf]

I had similar problem with my K1200RS, couldn't get rid of the sponginess despite bleeding and cleaning calipers out - took it to BMW dealers who said calipers were worn, and moving slightly because of this, and would need replacing. Traded the bike in soon after (to the same dealers).

Thanks for sharing you experience with us. I do hope it is not the calipers really . Though they can be overhauled too, it is an expensive work .

I will keep my fingers crossed!

 

[nunesaf]

Hi,
Ok, so I revised the calipers. They were ok but now I am sure they are fully functional. It didn't make any difference.
Then replaced the master cylinder (the repair kit really) and that made a huge difference. But the end result is not quite perfect. I guess it is all now left to the brake lines. They are a bit old already but at least I have a peace of mind as the brakes are working much much better.
Thank you all - and I guess it is equally important to post here how we solved the problems too

Bye!