fuel line connectors

dave ellison

Guest
I'd like to fit some connectors to the fuel lines on my '00 1150gs in order to make it easier to remove the tank.
Can someone help me out with?
- what are these connectors called?
- where can I buy them?
- advice on fitting?

thanks
 
I recently fitted Touratech 'Quick Disconnects' that I got from Bracken.
Touratech suggest only fitting the 'one way' ones for the 1150GS due to flow rates. Though listers on the MicaPeak list have suggested that the two way ones aren't a problem.
You will need to get four fuel hose clamps (similar to the ones on the hose already) as the ones that come with the Touratech ones are about as useful as a solar powered torch!
You can get the clamps in Halfords £1.49 for two.
There are some good instructions to be found at:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/instl/instl_100-0101.html

Phil
 
Dave, the guy to ask for at Bracken is John Hill (Mr Touratech).
I've recently just fitted the quick disconnect lines in conjunction with a 41 litre tank. Fitting the tank was .......interesting. Fitting the fuel line connectors was an absolute dodle, just cut the lines where you need, slide in the connector units into the hose, male and female and clamp them off, bashplate reckons the touratech clamps are crap, although I've not had any problems with them. Personal preference I guess.

There pretty cheap and very useful. You wont have any problems. If you do, post the prob and and someoe on the board will supply a solution.

Cheers
Simon T:beerjug:
 
Two-way versus one-way

The advantage of fitting the two-way connectors is that you can mount them inopposite directions on the hoses. That way you won't mix the hoses when reconnnecting.
 
thanks for the info' guys.....

..... next question - tonight's lottery numbers? :D :)
 
OK what are the brass rings for then

My 1100 is due for her 36000 service and apart from the valves ( never done valves) and the injectors ( never done injectors) the nice people at hughenden are going to these jobs for £75.00 apparently. I have almost all the bits assembled including these horribly expensive little items.
Can someone tell me what the brass rings are for please.

Stephen
 
I think they are 'supposed' to be fuel hose clamps.
Like I said in my earlier reply I found them completely usless (though someone said they worked for them).
I'd suggest you go to Halfords and get 4 of the proper clamps as I suspect with the the supplied ones fuel will spray out when you start the engine (the system runs at 42psi if I remember correctly).

Phil
 
QD FUEL LINE FITTINGS

Bracken are really over priced for these fittings. OFF ROAD ONLY at Crossgates in Mid Wales do them for a £10 a piece. My 02 has them factory fitted , before anyone with an 02 bike orders them for their tank lines. Check under the cover on right side of the tank to see if you already have them on the lines.
ANDY
 
FUEL QD CONNECTORS

I HAVE AN 02 MODEL AND THE CONNECTERS ARE FACTORY FITTED.
 
Andy, just a word of possible caution here.

I have the QD connectors fitted and I find that sometimes when I've pulled the tank off I have to replace the little rubber "O" rings.

These are what actually seals the lines and they get contaminated with fuel and expand. When you snap click the connectors open, the rubber ring expands slightly and it will either not go back in or it will be an extremely tight fit.

I now carry about 6 of these, in a tiny plastic bag in my tool kit box under the pillion seat. Very cheap fix when on the road!

Mick.
 
Help :(

OK, I admit it, my father was right, I am stupid.

I bought these connectors from Touratech just to allow me to fill my stove from the tank.

The idea goes something like this, fit one way QD connectors, buy an extra one, attach that male connector to a bit of spare tubing. Disconnect top tank connector, plug in spare male, fuel flows down the tubing into my stove fuel bottle.

Still with me anyone?

But then John Hill (Bracken) tells me this wont work. The fuel does not flow by itself. I will need to operate the pump. He suggests that I disconnect the second (return connector) and then switch on the kill switch, and then use the starter motor to pump the fuel through in 150 cc goes.

A quick check of this site, and of the above link to Touratech instructions which warn of a slight spray of gasoline, and I disconnect the upper fuel line.

(OK my father was not competely right, I had had the sense to run the bike down as low on fuel as I dared)

Instead of the slight spray I was expecting, or Mr Hills threatened 150 cc, I figure I am wearing about five litres of fuel.

So this is the question, is this normal? For the fuel to flow without the pump operating? Will my original plan work?
Or is there a problem with my bike?

Any help here would be gratefully received. Cheers.
 
David, there are two types of connectors from Touratech. Free flowing and self stopping (or non free flowing).

I have the 41 litre tank and it has a crossover tube which is required to be pulled apart to remove the tank. I also use it to refuel my petrol stove.

To refuel my petrol stove, I pull them apart and then position one of the hoses over a small funnel sitting on top of my 600ml sigma fuel tank (spare fuel) I then use a piece of wire bent into a U shape and insert it into the connector and pull back on the stop which allows fuel to flow. It flows reasonably fast into the funnel and hey presto, hot chocolate next stop!

There is also the problem of the rubber O rings expanding and making life difficult for re-coupling the connectors. I got around that by purchasing the required O rings from a BMW dealer. Ask them to look up fuel systems on a late model bike and there in the blow up pictures you will see the very same coupling system. The O rings are a standard size apparently so one shouldn't have much trouble finding them.

The coupling thingos themselves, are manufactured in one factory for the whole world as far as I can gather. I have a similar coupling system from the same manufacturer on my Co2 bottles connected to my LASER machine for cutting purposes. It's an American company and if you use a glass, you'll see the name of the state that they are manufactured in, in America!

David I would suggest that somehow you have the free flowing coupling system. There are two prices from memory and I know that the non free flowing shouldn't do what you suggest.

I like your idea to get the fuel out. If you had non free flowing then I would suggest that the amount of fuel in the lines would, after a few goes probably fill your fuel stove, maybe not. Anywhay we are both thinking along the same lines!

Mick.
 
Creating a camping-stove filling system...

Ok, at least this proves I use the Search facility :aidan

Having looked at this thread, I'm confused. My 1150s (both my 2002 GS and my 2005GSA, yes, I am greedy :augie ) have QD fittings on the fuel lines. My idea was to buy a spare fitting and then fit the male end to a section of fuel line, perhaps with a tap on the other end and then simply disconnect the line, connect the spare line to the fuel line on the tank and top up my stove...

But reading this thread it implies the couplings have a flow valve that only works under pressure (when the fuel pump is running). Is this true or is the flow stopped until the connectors (male and female) are ... connected?

Will my idea work? and does anyone know where I can get some at less than the TT price?

Edit: and will this work on an 1150GS (only 8.49!) http://www.touratech.com/shops/008/doku1/09-070-0690-0.PDF

Ta,
Paul
 
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Connectors

halfords sell them you can get them at once and save postage / waiting, £20
a pair. On the two lines from the fuel pump / return fit the connectors in opposite ways it is then not possible to re-connect them wrongly.
 
There are all sorts of non-return valves out there......the characteristic you're talking about is the 'crack (or break) pressure', which is exactly what it implies, the pressure at which a non return valve will 'crack' and allow fluid/gas to go through in the direction it's supposed to (but not in the other flow direction until a much, MUCH higher pressure blows out the diaphragm).

I have no idea what the break point of the BWM fuel QD's is, but it's obviously enough to stop the gravitational pressure of the petrol above the valve not to break it otherwise it'd all piss out as soon as you disconnect it,so yes, you're right, it won't work without the ignition on and fuel pump pumping.

One solution would be to put a NRV inline above the BMW one, with a lower crack point or with the valve in the downstream side....when you split the connection, you would have to put your thumb over the end but it would stop air getting into the line below or air back up above the valve...you could then squirt what you wanted into your cooker reservoir.

There are many NRV's used in the brewery, food processing and low pressure chemical delivery industries (I used to use them a lot in a previous life to deliver detergents and bleaches etc into washing systems) so they tend to be made out of good grade stainless steel and of about the right bore(1/4 inch-ish) ....the valve diaphragms themselves though may or may not be petrol proof so you'd have to get the specs on them before fitting.

HTH :)

(PS I've got shitloads of NRV's and petrol proof tubing lying around if you fancy taking this further.....I doubt that any have a low enough cracking point TBH but we could probably frig something up with the valve downstream)
 
Paul, having looked at the link you provided, I think it's a messy situation at best, secondly it is designed for the 1200, which is a different kettle of fish.

Since I posted the previous things about getting fuel out of a tank to run my petrol stove, a few interesting developments in my part of the world have happened.

The best thing I have seen is an R1100 GS owner who has tapped a crossover tube from the left to the right side, this eliminates the infuriating half a tank in the left side whilst the pump starts to run lean. This is an extreme, but terrific modification.

One of the advantages is that you can put a T piece in and run a line so that you can get fuel out using a simple fuel cock.

Another way is to run a solid T piece which has an inline valve. The inline valve would route the fuel normally whilst the engine was running, or the ignition switch was on. When the power is off you could then turn the valve, allowing fuel under gravity to flow to your low pressure petcock.

I currently run a T piece from my crossover tube. The short fuel line is ended by a lawn mower petcock, allowing simple clean and safe re-fueling of my stove!

Mick.
 
Thanks for all the help, guys... I like the t-connector option tapped into the cross-over tube, as my 1150GSA has a line fitted that I could tap into... or Halfords for connectors and a bit of pipe... either way, I now have enough options to work something out :thumb

Cheers!:beerjug:
 


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