Fuse 3 blowing on R1150 GS Adventure

[Matt Sherratt]

I've got a problem with the blue fuse no 3 which keeps blowing. It feeds the power sockets and fog lamps. If I put
the fog lamps on (original ones) or try using socket the fuse goes. Any body had this experience or know what the problem
might be? The sockets are ok and not shorting.

 

[theoneandonly]

get some reset-able fuses
unplug everything , check , turn bike on , does fuse blow ?
plug 1 thing in check , turn bike on , does fuse blow ?
repeat slowly until you blow a fuse
.....you have found your problem .

 

[DrFarkoff]

Use a 5 watt bulb (Or possibly a 21 watt for shorter periods!!!!)

Key Benefits of the "Test Light" Method

• Prevents Blown Fuses: Instead of immediately blowing a new fuse when testing a shorted circuit, the bulb absorbs the current and lights up brightly.
• Visual Troubleshooting:
  • Bright Light: Indicates a direct short to ground.
  • Dim Light/No Light: Suggests the short is gone, or it is a normal, high-resistance circuit.
• Find Intermittent Shorts: By wiggling wires while watching the bulb, you can see when the light goes out, indicating you have found the area of the short.
• Safe for Electronics: It prevents excessive current spikes that could damage sensitive ECU components.
  YouTube +4

How to Perform the Test

1. Remove the Blown Fuse: Identify the circuit with the blown fuse and remove it.
2. Connect the Bulb: Use a 12-volt incandescent bulb (e.g., an 1156 tail light bulb) with two wires attached to its terminals. Connect one wire to one side of the fuse holder and the other wire to the other side of the fuse holder.
3. Turn the Circuit On: Power up the circuit.
4. Analyze the Result:
   • Bright Bulb: There is a direct short to ground.
   • Bulb Off or Very Dim: The short is gone, or the circuit is operating normally.
5. Locate the Short: With the bulb brightly lit, move wires or disconnect components. When the light goes out, you have found the short.
   

Important Considerations

• Use Incandescent Only: Use an old-fashioned tungsten incandescent bulb, not an LED, as the bulb needs to draw sufficient current for an accurate load test. A 12-volt, 3-watt to 5-watt bulb is typically recommended.
• Do Not Use to Power Loads: This method is for testing, not running equipment. The bulb limits voltage to the component, so it will not operate correctly.
• Safety Warning: While the bulb prevents fuse failure, the shorted component or wire can still become hot. Do not leave this setup connected for long periods.