Fused power box. Best place to fit.

[GSWizz]

I am looking to fit a fused power outlet, like Centech AP1 for heated vests etc. The space available under the seat seems very limited on the LC. Has anyone done this and if so does it fit. Is it worth looking to go down a relay trigger route or for vests that you would obviously unplug in any event is it not worth the trouble?

 

[Wapping]

If, you are going direct to the battery, via a fused link (the Centech) you won't need a relay. Your bike will kick out enough umph to power two heated vests.

What else do you have in mind for the 'etc' in

for heated vests etc.

For a much neater solution, go digital, with a built in relay.... PDM60

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/3UES2kHp9so" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

If you can wire in a relay, you can certainly wire in a PDM60.

 

[Fanum]

If, you are going direct to the battery, via a fused link (the Centech) you won't need a relay. Your bike will kick out enough umph to power two heated vests.

What else do you have in mind for the 'etc' in

The relay would be more for safety than providing a big power supply.......It can't do any harm to lob one in so the centech itself is switched by Ignition.....no chance of forgotten devices leaving you stranded then, or a large live wire getting caught and pinched open somehow (fizzpop)

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Good luck finding a space for anything larger than a box of matches.

I just managed to fit a relay in the tray under the two ECUs under the seat. The only other place would be under the pillion seat but that area is exposed to the spray directly above the rear wheel so would need weatherproofing.

It's genuinely a consideration to anyone wanting to retro fit numerous electrical accessories to a WC.

 

[GSWizz]

I must admit it does look a tight fit. Will have to have a look for somewhere to tuck it away. I was hoping someone else might have already found the best option.

 

[Wapping]

If I remember correctly, on my old (pre WC and Twin cam) 1200, I stacked a quite large Autocom box against the rear of the tank, where (I think) the owner's manual was meant to go. Autocom told me it would fill with water, running down the tank and through the significant gap between the tank and the seat. It never did.

I haven't a WC close up, so don't know if this might be a possibility?

 

[Wapping]

Do you really need an fuse block if you really only intend to run a heated jacket (ie. no additional 'etc')?

If you really just intend to heat a jacket, install a suitable plug (or simple flying lead, say from an Optimate) going direct to the battery, using say a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse; the fuse should be installed as close to the battery as possible. Plug your jacket into that. You'll also be able to use it for a battery tender and running a compressor.

Unlike the usual fuse blocks, the PDM 60 is waterproof, which may suit Tunneruk's under the pillion seat location, perhaps? Given that you get a built in relay too, it may well suit you better, perhaps?

I guess you could keep digging around to find other places? Say where the Americans fit their carbon filter perhaps, then run the leads out, marking each to show what each fused value is. It might make changing a blown fuse a little awkward.... But really, how often do they blow?

 

[mcinlb]

I have a Fuzeblock , Autocom, bluetooth receiver and an amplirider all under the pillion seat area. Tight fit but all comfortably in covered with a small plastic bag for any splash.

 

[karlp]

I placed a PDM60 straight ontop of the ECU.

Small pieces of velcro just incase it needs to be removed.

There is a trigger feed approx 100mm away.

and no interference from the seat (it is in high setting)

 

[jussaral]

I placed a PDM60 straight ontop of the ECU.

Small pieces of velcro just incase it needs to be removed.

There is a trigger feed approx 100mm away.

and no interference from the seat (it is in high setting)

and where did you feed the trigger ?

Tx

 

[Emoto]

I am looking to fit a fused power outlet, like Centech AP1 for heated vests etc. The space available under the seat seems very limited on the LC. Has anyone done this and if so does it fit. Is it worth looking to go down a relay trigger route or for vests that you would obviously unplug in any event is it not worth the trouble?

I added a fused accessory socket to mine for the same reason. Wrote it up here: http://home.comcast.net/~emoto1/AcessorySocketGSW.htm

I don't think a relay is necessary because you are not likely to leave electric clothing connected and turned on when you leave the bike.

 

[karlp]

Hi

i asked the same question in a thread a few weeks ago and was told a feed can be taken from the plug just infront of the ECu and behind thne tank

 

[GSWizz]

Found this link:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928394

Could not quite see the 'earth block' terminal but rest is very clear. I assume the cost of the device is proportionate to its hi tech programmability and its compatibility with canbus. Might be a bit overkill for what I am looking to achieve. Basically two outputs for rider and pillion vests.

 

[karlp]

Found this link:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928394

Could not quite see the 'earth block' terminal but rest is very clear. I assume the cost of the device is proportionate to its hi tech programmability and its compatibility with canbus. Might be a bit overkill for what I am looking to achieve. Basically two outputs for rider and pillion vests.

In picture six he is holding the negative block. All the negative wires are connected to a ring terminal with a 6mm bolt all located in a plastic 'pouch'

 

[Wapping]

...... for what I am looking to achieve. Basically two outputs for rider and pillion vests.

So no 'etc' to wire in, just two heated vests.

That makes life very easy, very small, taking up no space at all.

Run a fused lead (10 amps should do) to the battery.

Connect it to a simple distribution block.

Run two leads from the distribution block, one for each heated vest (driver and passenger) each terminated in a female socket.

Plug heated kit in.