Garmin Zumo 220 connection query

ricalnic

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Hi, I’ve purchased a second hand zumo 220. The sat nav works fine, and charges successfully in the house, or on car lead.
The motorcycle lead came with the BMW canbus connector, I’ve located the canbus socket and hooked them both up.
Sat nav fails to charge - no power.
Bike ‘12 R1200 GSA. first time use of canbus accessory socket, do I need to enable anything ? Have use of GS-911 available

Thank you
 
First check you have power at the canbus socket

if i recall -Ground +12v +10V (Speed pulse)

you will need to work out which ..

the socket only stays live for approx 30 seconds after igintion off
 
The Zumo 220 comes with a 12v/5v reducer in the correct power cable.

Make sure you aren’t trying to pump 12v into it.
 
Do not use a zumo 220 on the canbus fly lead socket - it will flatten your battery via the 12v -5v reducer lead. This is an issue only on the 220.
I know first hand from experience.
 
Do not use a zumo 220 on the canbus fly lead socket - it will flatten your battery via the 12v -5v reducer lead. This is an issue only on the 220.
I know first hand from experience.

“Fly lead” being a permenantly-live socket?

Otherwise - the 220 is the same as all other Garmins, in that it either reduces 12/5v in an inline module, or within the mount.

Al
 
No i mean the canbus lead with socket up near the headstock.

Do a quick search and a few threads come up about it and the 220.

Mine was originally wired direct to the battery with no issues - when I subsequently wired into the canbus socket I started suffering flat battery problems.
It's the 12/5v converter. It fools the canbus to stay live even when the ignition is turned off.
It drains it even without the zumo attached.
It will do the same if connected to the accessory socket below the seat.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/new-bike-dead-battery.799815/

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/gs-battery-died-again.786103/
 
JonnyBravo, I note your comments and will investigate, but concur, it does remain live.

So, I opened the lead to check it was connected as per NN website, which it was. I was then able to con firm live up to in line fuse, and fuse good too. So next was to test beyond the black box on the lead. Earth was consistent from can bus connection through to external metal on small USB end. So, took the decision to cut off USB connector, bared the wires, and connected a spare USB connection I had, the one from the car lead I knew worked. Soldered the connections, taped it up. Voila ! Sorted, bike lead back working.
 
So, in addition to my comments above, there was no change required on ECU to enable accessory socket. The socket was live when I connected the sat nav lead.

JonnyBravo, in light of your comments I may have to consider an in line switch.
 
USB sockets will often drain the bike/car battery. You need a type that switches off fully when not in use.
 


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