Got a little project going

FatAl

FatAl

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I've just took delivery of a pair of alloy wheels from Hitchcocks for my 650 Interceptor. I like the idea of running tubeless, and as my bike has the Sunset Strip colour scheme rather than the more retro styled versions with the traditional RE tank badge I feel the alloys will suit it. The alloys will also be fitted with right angled tyre valves.
I've also just started to replace the handlebar switch gear with the refurbed Yamaha units that James 'slick' English sells. I also have the Regulator/Rectifier repositioning kit from him as well. While I'm at it I'll be removing the EVAP cannister, giving the bike it's 6000 mile service including valve check, fitting heated handlebar grips, and giving the bike a deep clean.

RE INT 650 alloy wheels.jpg
 
I finally managed to get the fuel tank off, I got the pipes and electrical connections sorted easily except for the high pressure fuel line. I had trouble getting my hand in at the correct angle to squeeze the release buttons. I've even got a special pair of pliers for these connections, but I couldn't get the required angle. Anyhow after several brews and much contemplation I went back to it and it came apart straight away.
The new refurbished Yamaha switches have been fitted, I like the look of these, they look substantial and the switches feel robust when operated, I've also fitted a new optimate charger wire to the battery.
Next job is to remove the rear wheel and get the tyre swapped to the new rear alloy. While it's out I'll remove the evap cannister and relocate the Reg/Rec.
 

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FatAl said:
I finally managed to get the fuel tank off, I got the pipes and electrical connections sorted easily except for the high pressure fuel line. I had trouble getting my hand in at the correct angle to squeeze the release buttons. I've even got a special pair of pliers for these connections, but I couldn't get the required angle. Anyhow after several brews and much contemplation I went back to it and it came apart straight away.
The new refurbished Yamaha switches have been fitted, I like the look of these, they look substantial and the switches feel robust when operated, I've also fitted a new optimate charger wire to the battery.
Next job is to remove the rear wheel and get the tyre swapped to the new rear alloy. While it's out I'll remove the evap cannister and relocate the Reg/Rec.
Click to expand...
I was reading that and thought you was going to say; i've got a special pair of hands for the connectors; :D
What was wrong with the old switches Al?
 
The OE switches feel flimsy, my indicator switch is very hit and miss, and feels like it's about to break off, and often when I think I've cancelled it's actually still on. The starter button the same. I like the chunky looks of the Yamaha replacements, and all switches feel strong, chunky and positive to use. I don't know if this makes any sense to you as it's all about personal perception, besides I like spending money on frivolous things :D
 
FatAl said:
The OE switches feel flimsy, my indicator switch is very hit and miss, and feels like it's about to break off, and often when I think I've cancelled it's actually still on. The starter button the same. I like the chunky looks of the Yamaha replacements, and all switches feel strong, chunky and positive to use. I don't know if this makes any sense to you as it's all about personal perception, besides I like spending money on frivolous things :D
Click to expand...
I fully understand Al; it's the same reason i always preferred Daf trucks to later Mercs; the switches were always chunkier and more reasuring to use; and yes it is a personal preference; the same reason i like the lego switches on my old 1100 to the Dinky switches on my SX. :beerjug:
 
Finally got everything back together so the bike is now ready for it's first MOT. Wheels look good, a nice smooth semi gloss finish. I think they suit the fuel tank paint work, but I'm not sure they would suit the 650's with the solid paint work and old style tank badges. I've fitted right angled tyre valves to save a lot of faffin' about. The spare inner tube has now been replaced with a tyre plug kit and inflator.
I've disconnected the charcoal cannister and left it in place to help keep crud off the reg/rec. I had intended to relocate this to the front of the bike for better access and cooling, but I was unable to remove the locking cable connector - the release catch broke as I squeezed it, so fingers crossed I don't have a problem with the reg/rec.
On starting the bike the engine management/fault light came on, I did a couple of laps of the block and it stayed on. I used the fault code/diagnostic reader I bought from Hitchcocks and was able to cancel the fault, another couple of laps of the block and no light, so fingers crossed all is OK.
The valve clearances were checked, one inlet and two exhaust valves were a bit loose and easily adjusted, but the valve cover is a PITA removing and particularly replacing (thanks for your assistance Stu)
The next jobs after the MOT is oil and filter change, replace air filter and spark plugs.RE alloy wheels 2.jpgRE alloy wheels 1.jpgRE fault reader.jpg
 
I can't make up my mind about the fly screen, keep or remove. I think the fly screen is probably more retro style so it sort of clashes with the alloy wheels. Any comments appreciated.
 
Looks good Al.:beerjug:
I assume feckin awkward rocker cover gasket never leaked.:)
 
FatAl said:
Finally got everything back together so the bike is now ready for it's first MOT. Wheels look good, a nice smooth semi gloss finish. I think they suit the fuel tank paint work, but I'm not sure they would suit the 650's with the solid paint work and old style tank badges. I've fitted right angled tyre valves to save a lot of faffin' about. The spare inner tube has now been replaced with a tyre plug kit and inflator.
I've disconnected the charcoal cannister and left it in place to help keep crud off the reg/rec. I had intended to relocate this to the front of the bike for better access and cooling, but I was unable to remove the locking cable connector - the release catch broke as I squeezed it, so fingers crossed I don't have a problem with the reg/rec.
On starting the bike the engine management/fault light came on, I did a couple of laps of the block and it stayed on. I used the fault code/diagnostic reader I bought from Hitchcocks and was able to cancel the fault, another couple of laps of the block and no light, so fingers crossed all is OK.
The valve clearances were checked, one inlet and two exhaust valves were a bit loose and easily adjusted, but the valve cover is a PITA removing and particularly replacing (thanks for your assistance Stu)
The next jobs after the MOT is oil and filter change, replace air filter and spark plugs.View attachment 363894View attachment 363893View attachment 363895
Click to expand...
Those wheels finiish it off lovely bud; how often is the valve check by the way; i'am also assuming it's a locknut& screw job .having only felt a sudden deflation whilst riding once in my lfe; tubeless is the way to go . :beerjug:
 
snelly said:
Those wheels finiish it off lovely bud; how often is the valve check by the way; i'am also assuming it's a locknut& screw job .having only felt a sudden deflation whilst riding once in my lfe; tubeless is the way to go . :beerjug:
Click to expand...
I feel happier with tubeless, I had a rear go on my old R80/7 at 70mph and it was an experience I don't want to repeat. I've witnessed too many days out spoiled by punctures in tubed tyres. There's no way I'm feckin about at the roadside removing wheels, then trying to break the bead. I did consider one of those conversion kits, but I don't trust myself to do it, and these RE alloys were fairly priced at £450.
Anyhow old Harry Enfield got a clean MOT ticket, luckily the tester liked the fruity sound of the pipes.
The valve clearance interval according to my hand book is 6000mls, my bike is at 5,500mls, and as I had the tank off for another job (which makes it easier to remove the rocker cover) I checked the valves. It is screw and locknut and easy to do (after many years of old Hondas, airhead BMWs and Moto Guzzis its a doddle) The awkward part is removing and replacing the rocker cover, I tried on my own to replace it but it was a struggle to keep the gasket in place, in the end I got my glamourous assistant to help, it was then easy to sort out.
 
dean0n0 said:
Looks good. If money's burning a hole, there's a few ideas here.....
www.ebay.co.uk

Royal Enfield Interceptor 865 Hooligan S&S Flat track Race Bike | eBay

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Click to expand...
£15,000 to buy and £25,000 to build, that £10,000 difference would buy two almost new 650s. It looks rather good although I'd have to get it repainted.
 
The cast wheels look brilliant, really like them with the colour scheme, but don't think the screen does anything for the look though, imo better without
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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