Gravel Roads, Bear Poo and Keeping Mooyucks Out...

MikeO

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Dereham, Norfolk, today...
10th July

What a frustrating day! I slept well and was on the road, in a light drizzle, at 1000. I notice that there is a huge whale skull on the porch by the Motel’s front door…

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I have an unexceptional breakfast at a local café, where I meet two local roofers, Ted and Jay. We discuss number of points, like why the one dollar coin is called a ‘Loony’ (because it has a picture of a Loon on the reverse), what the Canadian Olympic Committee (COC) thinks it’s doing – apparently they have put extra-stringent targets for athletes to meet for selection– in most disciplines they have to be in the top 12 in the world before they are considered for selection. Jay thinks it’s daft (as do 2 of their boxers, who are taking the COC to court) – he believes the occasional ‘Eddie the Eagle’ probably increases the audience – I’m inclined to agree.

I get on the bike and start to follow the route I planned last night. I intend to go ‘overland’ to Port Alberni – about 50 miles away in a straight line. First, I visit Port Renfrew Marina…

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…which is a shanty town of RVs and trailers, owned by the dozens of fishermen staying here…

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…the ‘Attended Service’ gas pump is a self contained unit on a trailer. I go to the office and ask if I can get some fuel – the middle aged attendant looks up from his newspaper without enthusiasm, then turns to serve someone else. Bollocks to that – I don’t need fuel that badly…

I’m soon riding some very rough gravel tracks. It becomes obvious early on that the mapping I bought yesterday doesn’t reflect current condition of the tracks – I decide against riding this one…

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The other problem is that the tracks are almost exclusively owned by logging companies. On two occasions, I ride in excess of 20km, only to find something like this…

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God knows who ‘Mooyucks’ are :D

The logging companies, who have recently bought vast tracts of woodland in the south of Vancouver Island, keep all the gates locked at the weekends and at night. This has become necessary to counter the actions of ‘Eco-Terrorists’. These chaps will do things like ‘Spike’ trees (driving steel rods into the trunk of a tree to wreck a chainsaw, and, potentially, injure the operator), booby trap trails and drive brand new plant off cliffs, in the name of saving the environment.

Well, the net result for me was to do the best part of 200 miles on rough tracks…

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…enjoying some great views…

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…without ever getting close to Port Alberni. The weather varied throughout the day – I was often caught in sudden squally rain showers.

In the middle of the afternoon, I manage to hit a rock with my left foot – it must’ve been a stone thrown by the front wheel – it wasn’t anything on the track – but it bloody hurt…

By about 1730, I’d had enough of the wild goose chase - I get to the end of a 30km trail, only to find it peters out to nothing. I turn around and ride back the way I’ve just come, to find…

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…this rock. It had not been here when I came through 20 minutes ago – however, the bear sh1t, on the left, had been – I really began to feel that it was time to stop for the day.

An hour and a half later I’m in the town of Duncan, looking for a motel – I’m knackered, and, in a straight line, Port Renfrew is only 36 miles away…:yelrotflm

I check into the Southside Inn which, until April this year, was a Days Inn – it’s now run by a father & son and is a little run down, but clean and cheap ($50 Canadian). The father, who’s on duty at the desk when I arrive, doesn’t speak any English, it seems, and has to call his son on the phone. Within a couple of minutes, the son turns up and checks me in – quite what function the father serves at the desk, that couldn’t be duplicated by a bell push, is a mystery to me…

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11th July

I get up after a terrible night’s sleep. I knew when I checked in that the hotel was in the less salubrious part of town – what I hadn’t realised was that there was a pub across the road from the rear (where my room was). The noise, mostly of loud arguments and fights out in the car park, followed by the wail of Police sirens, and thence of drunken girlfriends pleading to get their blokes released, intermittently woke me until 0430. I came down to find the reception area deserted and locked, left my key in a locked key drop and, breathing a sigh of relief that the Adv had survived the night unmolested, left, mentally crossing Duncan off my list of places to re-visit…

I set course for Port Alberni, determined to get there after yesterday’s abortive cross country attempt. Although the weather starts out fine and sunny, it soon clouded over and rain threatens for most of the day, but never puts in an appearance. When I ultimately arrive in Port Alberni, it turns out to be a fairly industrialised town, with the main industries, unsurprisingly, being Salmon fishing and timber production…

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Although it’s not late, I’m already feeling tired. I spot an Internet Café…

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…and stop for coffee and to upload the last 2 days journal and the associated pictures.

The chap who comes in to sit at the table behind me had the worst BO I’ve ever experienced – I’m not talking about an unpleasant smell – I mean CS gas style, can’t-quite-catch-my-breath, eyes-streaming, is-this-going-to-etch-the-screen-on-my-laptop type BO. Immediately he sat down I moved out onto the balcony – he can’t have changed his shirt in a month

After doing my ‘E-chores’, I fill up with fuel, then start heading up towards the north of Vancouver Island. After a while, I feel too tired to go much further, so find a room in the Sleepy Hollow Motel in Courtenay.

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12th July

I wake after 11hrs sleep - Excellent! It's a beautiful sunny day - Even Excellenter! After a good breakfast at the local cafe, I'm on the road at 0930 and heading up the coastal highway towards Port Hardy, my intended destination tonight. Trying not to imagine what they grow here...

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...I ride Highway 19 north west - the view over the Strait of Georgia is beautiful, with the hills and mountains of the Pacific Range brightly lit by the morning sun...

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I stay on the 19 most of the day, except for an hour of madness, when I'm, once again, lured off route by the voices, to try a forest track I can see from the road...

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Wise words.

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As usual, it ends up as a dead end - this time blocked by active logging - the guys (lumberjacks, I suppose??) I met were amazed I'd got as far as I had*, but told me there was no way through...

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...so I wended my weary way back to the highway,

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...past Seymour Narrows...

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...and Woss (Johnathen was out)...

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...before arriving at the Seagate Inn at Port Hardy & checking in for the night. I go around the corner to Guido's Coffee Shop - an excellent Internet Cafe. It's been a good day :thumb

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*They were not alone in this...:D
 


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