GSA LC electrics

[GrinningGSer]

The battery is not in an easy access location and there's not a lot of room for adding fused accessory wires eg heated clothing. Does anyone have any neat accessory fuse panel suggestions because this model is seriously lacking storage space?
Also, IF you ever needed to use bike jump leads, you would need to
a) remove side panel with a t20 torx
b) unlatch the rubber battery strap
D) remove plastic battery holster
E) pull battery out and balance precariously while applying crocodile clips

That is NOT going to be easy .

 

[Wapping]

If I were looking to add any sort of electrical periferals to the GS, I would start by looking at what I intended to add, their likely current draw and where on bike the items would be.

Lights, on the front and seemingly now on the back, too. Relay required.

Phone, music player, chargers and other low draw items probably in a tank bag. No relay or high current draw demand.

GPS, up by the instruments. Low current draw, no relay required

Heated clothing, on the rider and / or pillion's body. A medium to high draw. Relay.

Heated grips, on the end of the bars. Medium to high draw. Relay.

Heated seat, under your butt. Medium to high draw. Relay.

I would then try to find one reasonably small, single device, that could be used to power and switch all of these items at once. I know I'd go for a PDM 60.

http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules

http://www.nippynormans.com/product...ution-module-with-programming-cable-row-pdm60

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928394

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See, it is easy!

 

[WindyChuffer]

You do not need to remove the battery to jump start the bike; as explaind in the manual.

I do believe there is some space under the pillion seat for a fuse panel and I have heard of folks putt ting one under the riders seat. Cant speak for sure as I haven't looked myself and not got my LC yet.

 

[karlp]

I have fitted a PDM 60 under the seat.

It is secured to the top of the ECU with sticky pads..

All accessories can be added to this. However I do now think this is probably too much as I do not think I will use all the circuits.

I intend to add heated jacket/ gloves.
A power socket going to the top box.

Cannot think of anything else.

 

[Wapping]

What surprises me is that manufacturers do not add one blanked off positive power feed spur somewhere, somewhere convenient under the seat, for adding devices like the PDM 60. This would do away with the need to tap into anything at all. OK it's not difficult to tap into an auxiliary plug's supply or the rear light supply for a trigger but many bods are reluctant to do it. BMW add a convenient spur for the GPS device; they could add one under the seat for 0.0000000001p cost.

This reluctance is not something new, born out of a fear of Canbus 'magic'. It was there under the old two wires and a fuse system, too. In many ways Canbus is much simpler, as there are no fuses and many low draw basic items really are plug and play, requiring no additional software tweaks at all.

Not least, BMW seem to have forgotten where it's useful to put the auxiliary supply sockets. On my 1600 GT, there is one tucked away under the rider's seat, down by the bottom of the suspension unit, on the offside. Useless. They are so embarrassed by this they don't even bother to mention about it in the owner's handbook.

 

[GrinningGSer]

You do not need to remove the battery to jump start the bike; as explaind in the manual.

You are of course correct WindyChuffer:

I should RTFM

What surprises me is that manufacturers do not add one blanked off positive power feed spur somewhere, somewhere convenient under the seat, for adding devices like the PDM 60. This would do away with the need to tap into anything at all.

Well said. almost of all of us add some sort of electrical gizmo and this should be made easy.

 

[DRAIN MAN]

PDM 60 under rear seat, used spare power connecter on same circuit as sat nav for switching the relay, easy once you have taken the RHS tank panel off.

 

[Wapping]

See, it really is easy.

 

[Reckless]

For those who don't want to splice their new wiring - check this out on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Add-A-Circu...sbs_diy_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KFFN3RKA8S5C2JYAQND

Simply use the adaptor to replace one of the fuses in the two-fuse block under the seat. Then, add 2 fuses to the adaptor - one replaces that you have removed and the other you can set to meet the demands of your new circuit. This would make an ideal trigger wire for a relay as it would use very little current.

Not tried it as I dont hav emy new bik eyet but it looks like a useful possibility?

 

[SMB]

Thanks

For those who don't want to splice their new wiring - check this out on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Add-A-Circu...sbs_diy_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KFFN3RKA8S5C2JYAQND

Simply use the adaptor to replace one of the fuses in the two-fuse block under the seat. Then, add 2 fuses to the adaptor - one replaces that you have removed and the other you can set to meet the demands of your new circuit. This would make an ideal trigger wire for a relay as it would use very little current.

Not tried it as I dont hav emy new bik eyet but it looks like a useful possibility?

Love it, so easy to get an ignition live lead now.
On ebay as well.
Thanks.

 

[Reckless]

These look pretty useful too ?

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/285/category/60