Have I just wasted my time....?

Popell

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So, got home with an hour to spare and decided to change the oil in the FD on my '05 GS.
All went fine - think I got most of the planned 220ml in, old stuff wasn't too dirty having been changed about 12k back.

Anyway, was putting it all back together and realised that as the bike is going in for the hub recall ( at least it will be doing when I can get a slot), it was possible that in changing the hub, they may have to dismantle the FD and end up refilling the juice anyway:blast

Anyone know if I wasted my time or not?
 
It may have come with 220, but BMW seems to think that was a bad idea!

Jim :cool:

That's very true Jim but it doesn't really matter i don't think. I put 200ml in mine and never had an issue.

Popell, you haven't wasted your time as fresh oil is never a bad thing. Mikeyboy, who is a 1200 genius, changes all oils every 6000 miles and I have to agree with him that it's a good thing. It's only a few quid for the oil and changing it every service can indicate can give you an indication any possible issues.:thumby:
 
Had my final drive rebuilt at Motoscot recently. I asked did they put 180ml oil in? They said no we put in 220. The reason that BMW reduced to 180ml was due to (if I remember correctly) a mass of oil seals supplied did not have tight enough tolerances and would sometimes leak with 220ml, but if quantity reduced to 180 ml it reduced the pressure on the seal and no leak. Their man (Motoscot) is OCD when rebuilding, apparently, so tolerances spot on hence them filling to 220ml.
 
Rebuilding and carrying out a service are 2 different things

Service will still have wet surfaces and filled orifii

Where a rebuilt one will be dry

If you just serviced it you put 20cc too much in
 
Popell, you haven't wasted your time as fresh oil is never a bad thing. Mikeyboy, who is a 1200 genius, changes all oils every 6000 miles and I have to agree with him that it's a good thing. It's only a few quid for the oil and changing it every service can indicate can give you an indication any possible issues.:thumby:

Exactly.
Fresh oil is never a waste of time (especially as it costs buttons in reality). I used to change all the fluids at service time on my 1100 (5000 miles in my case as counting was easier :) )
 
I started a post a while back asking how many did or didn't

change their Gearbox and FD oil every service It costs like a Tenner for the oil

I was pretty amazed at some of the responses

I am also astonished that someone would fit those absolute SCHITE Hi Flo filters on their motorcycle to save like £3 ?????

Or spend £60 plus on 4 litres of oil for something that was designed to lubricate its little journals with "20W50" and then go ride it to Asda or Other supermarkets to show their off roading experience in mounting the kerb!

If you ride them hard then fair enough .............................. Your choice but I have 10 bikes that have 90,000 miles on them just using Dino Oil
 
umm

Im not so sure about this signs of degradation when changing FD oil, unless its having it analysed by a LAB to establish exactly what the particles are it mostly guess work,

Sure you can say theres particles of metal on the speedo sensor so its the bearings failing, but its also wear and tear, same with black oil along with seal wear.

In 105k and changing the FD oil at sometimes very regular sometimes not so regular its always come out more or the less the same, black and contaminated.

Not saying im right but thats my experience, I did pull the FD apart at 65k and the small pinion bearing was ready to go I reckon, I rebuilt it,easy enough, made the jigs etc, lots of heating and cooling of various bearings, for what it costs in parts Ill get mikeyboy to do it next time.
 
I changed my FD oil at about 35K miles shortly after I bought the bike. the old stiff was smelly and dirty. Both times I used 220ml with no problems and both times the oil was not smelly. The wheel bearing failed at 50K so I sent the FD to Mikeyboy for a full rebuild. He said all of the bearings were "ready".

So did my "overfilling" ruin the FD bearings or was it previously under filled or even forgotten before I bought the bike?

I do regret not using the old method to change the oil - tipping the FD back on it's Paravlever Trunnion bearing to drain out of the filling hole. This recirculates grease in the Paravlever bearing helping the needle rollers to last longer. Mine were totally shot costing me another wedge on top of what Mikey needed to rebuild the FD.
 
Im not so sure about this signs of degradation when changing FD oil, unless its having it analysed by a LAB to establish exactly what the particles are it mostly guess work,

Sure you can say theres particles of metal on the speedo sensor so its the bearings failing, but its also wear and tear, same with black oil along with seal wear.

In 105k and changing the FD oil at sometimes very regular sometimes not so regular its always come out more or the less the same, black and contaminated.

Not saying im right but thats my experience, I did pull the FD apart at 65k and the small pinion bearing was ready to go I reckon, I rebuilt it,easy enough, made the jigs etc, lots of heating and cooling of various bearings, for what it costs in parts Ill get mikeyboy to do it next time.

I was really referring to signs of metal on the speedo drive which is magnetic. Any particles would probably mean the bearing is breaking up.
 


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