Heading out again

Some updates...

All the heavy engineering work has now been completed on the piste north from Ait Benhaddou to Animeter that then goes on as tarmac to Telouet and the Tichka pass. There's a new bridge still being worked on, and another just north of Ait Benhaddou that needs repair (take care--slats are missing!), but otherwise it's a smooth balasted surface that's suitable for Gold Wing sidecar combos towing a trailer.

The tarmac road from El Kelaa M'Gouna north to Bou Tharar has been extended further north as far as Alemdoun and the tunnel has been widened. The piste over the top to Bou Tharar now gets no traffic and is degrading badly but it didn't stop Thierry and Isobella, a French couple riding two-up on a laden 1200GS, from completing it!

The 17km of tarmac from Asni to Imlil has been extended another 16km from Imlil over the Tizi n'Tamatert and then on to Tagadirt. It then ends in a mule track that leads to the piste coming south from Oukaimdene to Tizi n'Eddi, so you can guess what might come next.

I sent Ricardo (of this parish) and his mate on a Bandit on the tarmac R307 from Skoura to Demnate, not realising there had been severe storms in the area. Ricardo on the GS loved it, but his mate wasn't so keen.

The painted rocks at Tafraoute were originally done in 1984 and were fading badly. They have been repainted, not all in the original colours, and at least a couple (the gateway pair) that were previously not painted are now bright green and bright orange.

In Ouarzazate I met up with Hana and David from MotoAdvenTours who brought in my tent and some tools. And then in Marrakech I met up with the MotoAdvenTours group again, along with Blue Sweeper with his flock of 25 (!) World of BMW riders.

I managed to hole the sump of the Tenere and had a 18km walk to get mobile reception (note: include a stick of Magic Metal in the tool kit in future).

Otherwise everything is going fine. I am discovering many fresh pistes that are not on Olaf maps and I wild camped at 2200m (>7000 ft) which was a 'bit chilly'. Currently having a day off by the pool at Hotel les Amandiers in Tafraoute. Weather forecast for the next three days not quite so positive.
 

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In Ouarzazate I met up with Hana and David from MotoAdvenTours who brought in my tent and some tools. And then in Marrakech I met up with the MotoAdvenTours group again, along with Blue Sweeper with his flock of 25 (!) World of BMW riders.


Nice to meet up with you again Tim, 22 bikes in the group actually. But you missed the next day in Marrakesh when 60, yes 60 German bikes turned up on tour, complete with backup Vans!!!
 
Hey Tim, you've allready forgotten about those 4 Belgians, all with loaded GS'es you met at Bikershome :confused:

We rode the piste over the mountain top coming from Bou Tharar too, and it wasn't a walk in the park :eek:

Grtz, Philip!
 
Sorry guys, but you weren't two-up. :comfort Lovely to see you here. Hope the rest of your journey went well!

I've just worked out a rough plan of what I want to cover and it will take another 3.5 weeks. :augie

Unfortunately after the beautiful sunshine yesterday, today was rain and riding through low cloud (low being at 5500 ft). It's now about 16c, though the ever-optimistic bank thermometer still reads 27c. Tomorrow is forecast for thunderstorms and 18c, then improving to a sunny 22c which I can live with.

Today I visited a series of agadirs (fortified granaries) in the Anti Atlas, pic below. This was one of four similar 'avenues' in the granary which represented a tremendous community joint effort. Each opening is a separate store room for a family or group, and these granaries were a way of protecting one's winter grain and the seed for next year's planting.

The photo is taken well above ground level and anyone who knows the Lake District will recognise that the stones sticking out are a means of reaching the upper stories of the granary.

Tim
 

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Sorry guys, but you weren't two-up. :comfort Lovely to see you here. Hope the rest of your journey went well!

Tim

The rest of our journey went great, the reccomended ride through the High Atlas was great. Nice views, amazing roads, and Imi-n-Ifri really is something beautiful.
Ouzoud waterfalls were great. Hard to imagine there's so much water in such a dry and hot area. Volubilis also was beautiful and worth the visit.

In case you're curious, here are some of my photos => http://philz.smugmug.com/Travel/My-trip-to-Morocco-september/14095413_jaBky#1038675339_vxYbV

Grtz, Philip!
 
Tim, you look real well.

Thank you, kind sir. It was stopping eating all the donuts that helped. :augie

Back to the story... In this case things don't always go to plan. :(

I decided to do a loop south from Tafraoute as far as the N12 main road (60km as the crow flies) then come back up via the prehistoric rock carvings of Ait Herbil. It was a bit of a last minute decision as the weather seem iffy and I didn't start until 1045 which gave me only 7.5 hours before sunset.

Shortly after leaving Tafraoute it started to rain again, but I kept going even though I was riding at times through low cloud. After 70km the tarmac stopped and the route continued as a piste which was of the worst possible surface--beaten earth--which is lethal when wet. But I kept going and once over the watershed the piste surface became mainly stones and then the rain stopped and I came down a beautiful gorge.

I did 28km on the piste including 13 river crossings (dry river bed but stoney, longest lateral crossing was 300m) then it was back to tarmac. So far, so good.

I was trying to find a route east up the valley from the ancient agadir (granary) of Amtoudi at N29 14.974 W9 11.389 and wasted some time here before giving up. So I was behind schedule when I did the section with the rock carvings and I then carried up north on the main R107 (Regional Route 107) road.

However this turned into piste, fast at first, then the route was riding up a river bed. The stones were more compressed than I remembered when I did this route before on the 1200GSA so rather than a 'red' (technical) piste I termed it a hard 'blue' (intermediate). Everything seemed to be working out OK.

By then it was just before 1700 (sunset at 1815) and a couple of guys tried to persuade me from going further saying it was 'interdit' (forbidden) and that I should stay the night with them. I immediately smelt a rat, but in any case most of my stuff was in the Hotel Les Amadiers in Tafraoute which by then was only 40km line-of-sight away.

So I carried on, switched from one valley's river bed to another, congratulating myself on my ability to sense a scam. After 12km of river bed riding I exited into a date palmery and 500m later came to a sign just past Gite Igmir saying the R107 was closed due to road works. No problem thinks me, I can get through roadworks.

I remembered the steep climb out of the gorge on a concrete road but it was now really badly torn up and I had to repair one section in order to pass. Then I came to the landslide...

Oh shite.

The only way back to Tafraoute was back down the river bed about 16km to where another valley branched off and then head north towards the Ait Mansour gorge. My return down the river bed was much faster--I knew there were no serious obstructions and light was failing. It was fully dark by the time I came to the turn so I zoomed my GPS in close to follow the tracklog on the screen so I would not lose the track on the ground. Unfortunately this route north was also a river bed. :eek

Then the wind started getting up, switching quickly in direction, sometimes blowing sand and dust directly at me created a kaleidoscope effect in the headlight, other times coming from behind so I was totally enveloped in my own dust trail. Sometimes I was blinded and had to stop until the wind calmed down, other times the wind was so strong I had stop the bike to avoid being blown over.

On most bikes the dip headlight beam stays on when you switch to main beam, but on the Tenere it's one of the other. Generally this isn't too bad as it forces you to concentrate on far ahead (on the basis you can't fekking well see what's any nearer as it's in the shadows) but sometimes I had to switch beams. Generally momentum is your friend and I made what I thought was remarkable progress in difficult condition. Measuring the tracklog afterwards the second river bed section was over 35km.

I eventually got back to the hotel at 2230 after a total of 300km of which 110km was piste riding. Fortunately the bar was still open!

Pics below of Amtoudi agadir, the concrete section and the landslide.
 

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It may not have gone according to plan, but I remember hearing you talk anbout this one time you were stuck in a dry river bed, on a big 1200Adv, sleeping under the stars, waking up and building a ramp to get out of the river bed.

Seems like this day is another one you'll end up sharing with bike enthousiasts whenever you meet them. And thank god for that. :D

Grtz, Philip!
 
As Tim said 'I sent Ricardo (of this parish) and his mate on a Bandit on the tarmac R307 from Skoura to Demnate, not realising there had been severe storms in the area. Ricardo on the GS loved it, but his mate wasn't so keen'. Thanks for all the info and the route Tim. A good day out.

Suzuki Bandit... The other 1200GS(F)
This is in Todra
 

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Met Consigliero from this board yesterday (Marek from Krakow travelling in a 4x4 with his good lady). I'm in the south east enjoying some of the marvellous pistes and am now planning to head north through the Rekkam plateau to Debdou.

Currently I'm in Figuig which is about as far as you can get in Morocco from the big cities. Pics below are of the view down the valley into Algeria and a close up of the border that's been closed since the 1990s.

Other pics are of a nasty sandy 300m wide river crossing. Stopping halfway to stick in a waypoint wasn't the best decision of the day. Then when I got through I found it was the wrong way and had to come back again! :blast

Also a pic of 0620 dawn yesterday when wild camping--there was no hotel within about 50 miles. It was freezing overnight, the outside of the tent was soaking with dew, the inside was soaking with condensation presumably from my breath, even though I had all the ventilation flaps open. Still what can you expect with a £25 tent?
 

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We have drive behind you on this road which on the map was written forbidden piste, even we saw your sign on some parts . If we will organise spare tyre we will go for mountains roads.
It was pleassure to meet you Tim
Marek and Beata
 
Big day today with over 100 miles offroad across the Rekkam Plateau riding north from Talsinnt to Debdou. I had five litres of fluids (no Red Bull this time), enough food, petrol galore with the Tenere's big tank, plus my tent, but I was a bit aprehensive as there was no cellphone coverage.

Still, it wasn't quite as deserted as I expected, nor as boring.
 
We are back at home since one week , It was nice time , we try Always Look On the Bright Side of Life

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On the way from Oujda to Figuig we saw one Camel sign but we didn't stop , we thought on south we will have more of them. One of the last days when we drive from fort Bou-Jerif to plage blanche we saw it again we have to stop:). I think tourist take them home like cow bells in Swiss:)
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Regards BMW (Beata Marek W. :)
 


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