Heavy throttle - the cure is found..

(RIP) Bin Ridin

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Dudes,
I yam here to tellya that after all other efforts to lighten the throttle on my 40k kms 2002 model 1150GS, I bit down and changed all 4 cables and the result is transformation. Some of the cable bends are too tight as designed (90 deg from pulley-box to lh and rh throttle pulleys) and I think that is what cooks the goose despite mileage not too high.
If you are doing this job, you may need a conversion kit for the twist-grip end, few bits of plastic and some screws.
That is all.
Bin
 
If you are doing this job, you may need a conversion kit for the twist-grip end, few bits of plastic and some screws.
That is all.
Bin

Conversion kit is only for the 1150 models, so don't panic 1100 owners.

And a cable change is in the service schedules at 36k miles :rolleyes:
 
Conversion kit is only for the 1150 models, so don't panic 1100 owners.

And a cable change is in the service schedules at 36k miles :rolleyes:

That's a shame - I keep thinking I should change the original cable on my '94 1100 (which German designer thought it was a good idea to daisy-chain throttle actuators? :rolleyes: ). I'd hoped there might be some sort of properly split conversion available (although I guess it'd probably mean new TB's, or at least quadrants, too).

So I guess at 34,000 I'm just coming up to a change - looks like it should be fun :D
 
I think the daisy-chain cable is easier to change than the new one, no pulley box. The trick thing is to know how to open the handlebar switch assemblies,, don't miss the screw behind the mirror stem - but you knew that already.....
 
Did you have a go with some graphite lube on them first bud? Mines gone all heavy too (its like a cruise control) but was gonna give a hydrualic luber a go... just to see.
 
Well my fast idle cable is seized solid, and the rest of em look like they have been there for a seriously long time, how much do the new cables cost for the whole setup? (later 1100)
Stewart
 
Can't remember the prices, sorry. (Probably wiped out by an embarassment-prevention reflex)...

Tried oil / grease and it was a waste of time. I remember greasing clutch cables using a cylinder yoke and a bicycle pump, plus using a plastic funnel hangng overnight....and if I knew then what I know now, it was a waste of time too. I am sure the cable wears a groove in the liner, then wears through it and that is it, game over.

New cables, prolly good for 3 or 4 years of happiness.

Bin
 
Well my fast idle cable is seized solid, and the rest of em look like they have been there for a seriously long time, how much do the new cables cost for the whole setup? (later 1100)
Stewart

Don't know for the 1100 but for the 100GS the BM ones are about £12 each.

Best have a look at Motorworks site, they supplied the best fitting ones for me :)
 
I just took my own advice and checked Motorworks, about £60 for the throttle ones.
Now if I just knew how to fill my tank............
Stewart
 
I just took my own advice and checked Motorworks, about £60 for the throttle ones.
Now if I just knew how to fill my tank............
Stewart

£60?!!
If it was for a pushbike, they'd cost about £5 :rolleyes:

I just know I need to change mine, so I guess I'll be making Mr Motorworks a bit richer soon....
 
£60?!!
If it was for a pushbike, they'd cost about £5 :rolleyes:

I just know I need to change mine, so I guess I'll be making Mr Motorworks a bit richer soon....

Rubbish.

Cost is £31.91 (INC VAT) for your particular bike Matt - so fret ye not. its the later ones that are more pricey. (I got mine as an ebay bargain last year - will replace when I need to.. NOT when the service schedule says so)

Could even be that this is one of those items that turn out to be cheaper from a BMW dealership - cheaper than MW. MB or JS (i mean)
 
Update, £60 for the throttle ones, the fast idle ones another £23 :eek:
Lilberally applying plusgas NOW.
I will continue until it takes molegrips to turn the twistgrip:D

Stewart
 
Rubbish. Cost is £31.91 (INC VAT) for your particular bike Matt - so fret ye not. its the later ones that are more pricey. (I got mine as an ebay bargain last year - will replace when I need to.. NOT when the service schedule says so)

That's a bit more reasonable :thumb2

I've been looking at mine for while thinking 'I really should....' - it looks pretty corroded and the end fittings are nicely furry. Sods law says it'd snap in the middle of nowhere.

However, I need to make myself a plastic tube manometer first....
 
That's a bit more reasonable :thumb2

I've been looking at mine for while thinking 'I really should....' - it looks pretty corroded and the end fittings are nicely furry. Sods law says it'd snap in the middle of nowhere.

However, I need to make myself a plastic tube manometer first....


Corroded and furry?

I would do it straight away - no messing about. In fact that would be a higher priority than a few pesky drips of oil on the back wheel. :augie
 
Corroded and furry?

I would do it straight away - no messing about. In fact that would be a higher priority than a few pesky drips of oil on the back wheel. :augie

Well, I'm half way through sorting the pesky drops of oil, and guess what I've just ordered from Motorworks?....
 


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