Hello and problem advice needed.

[Shez_ow01]

Hi been advised several times to join this forum by friends, but never got roundtuit until now, and I am diving straight in with a problem on my 1150 GS.

Had a quick squint through the old posts, couldn't find anything to match this one.

The problem appears to be the result of either servicing it or washing it on the weekend;
I did a regular 10k service on Saturday (turned 70k Friday night) all appeared ok after the service. On Sunday I gave it a long overdue wash and re-applied acf50 to vulnerable areas.
Didn't touch it again until Monday evening when I went out to the shops, the bike was very difficult to start but eventually did, I put it down to water somewhere, anyway it was running well so I set off. Got 4 miles from home and it died, just stopped no misfire nothing, like I had switched it off.
The bike turned over well but just would not fire.
Got the missus out with the trailer got it home and parked it up until the next evening, tried it fired but would only just tick over touch the throttle and it dies straight away, don't touch it and it dies after a few seconds. try touching the throttle whilst starting it forget it.
it will do this for a while start at tickover, run very rough for 1 -5 seconds for a while until it gets some head then it will fire whilst cranking over on the starter but as soon as you release it doesn't fire. leave it cool and it does the few seconds thing again.

The fuel pump is pumping when cranking, a couple of seconds after and when it is running so that appears fine.
pulled the injectors and they are squirting something when cranking.
The plugs are sparking when cranking.

I though I may have water in the Hall sensors or something so got an airline to everything to no avail.

Any ideas????

TIA

Shez
Loadsa bikes

 

[turbine_2]

Throttle cable on one side misrouted / misplaced would be my guess. Makes the throttle bodies unbalanced and remarcably common after a service.

 

[Deleted account W]

Bingo Turbine, haven't posted this for a while..........


An unseated throttle cable on one side. Here's what it looks like on an 1150:
<o> </o>
Good:

<o> </o>
Bad:

 

[nunesaf]

I never had that problem but, if my memory doesn't fail me, it could be a hall sensor. But fell free not consider my hint as I never experienced such problem.

You can start by searching here or in the advider forum "hall sensor".

 

[Shez_ow01]

I have done the throttle cable snag before when changing the cables, will check again as I haven't looked at that. Don't supect it this time because it ran fine for 4 miles.

I am leaning towards Hall sensors again, I dried the sensor area but reading the posts suggests it may be a connector block near the front of the tank that gets wet.

Two things to try when I get home.

Thanks

Shez

 

[nunesaf]

I have done the throttle cable snag before when changing the cables, will check again as I haven't looked at that. Don't supect it this time because it ran fine for 4 miles.

I am leaning towards Hall sensors again, I dried the sensor area but reading the posts suggests it may be a connector block near the front of the tank that gets wet.

Two things to try when I get home.

Thanks

Shez

Try this link: http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf
It is very good!

 

[Shez_ow01]

Wow nail - head smack.....


That description is very close, duly printed and will be covered in oily thumb prints by the end of the weekend.

Thanks

Shez

 

[nunesaf]

Wow nail - head smack.....


That description is very close, duly printed and will be covered in oily thumb prints by the end of the weekend.

Thanks

Shez

Hi Shez,

Probably the document is too good actually
As an intermediate step, you can check the connectors and the coil as he suggests. Blimey an hall sensor cost 170 quid... too much really for what it is (for my car, a Lancia Delta Integrale that is very hard to find parts, I got one for 40 quid). So, it is worth testing before you actually order it.

Hope this helps

 

[Flipfly]

The unseated throttle cable will make it run very lumpy but it should still run.

Re-check all the fuel lines, breathers and electrical connectors.

Then tear your hair out

 

[Carl]

I never had that problem but, if my memory doesn't fail me, it could be a hall sensor. But fell free not consider my hint as I never experienced such problem.

You can start by searching here or in the advider forum "hall sensor".

Its got a spark and the fuel pump is activating when turning the engine... wouldn't this rule out the hall sensor?
I may be completely wrong

 

[nunesaf]

Its got a spark and the fuel pump is activating when turning the engine... wouldn't this rule out the hall sensor?
I may be completely wrong

If it sparks in the wrong moment in time (defective hall sensor), no it doesn't rule out . Isn't it ?

 

[Carl]

If it sparks in the wrong moment in time (defective hall sensor), no it doesn't rule out . Isn't it ?

I may be completely wrong

 

[davegs]

Starting probs

No one suggested a blocked fuel filter. if timing wrong you would get bangs and pops al over the place if all else fails look at this, dont rely on the dealer changing it. Or possibly a pipe loose come away from fuel filter.
dave gs.

 

[Steptoe]

If it sparks in the wrong moment in time (defective hall sensor), no it doesn't rule out . Isn't it ?

If the hall sensor had failed it wouldn't spark. Full stop.

Turn on the ignition, listen for the fuel pump to prime, put the bike in gear then turn the rear wheel to turn the the engine over. You should hear the fuel pump prime every time the hall sensor "switches".

I suspect your throttle cable is unseated. It can fire up and run from cold due to the use of the choke/fast idle evening out both throttles. Once warm and you shut off the choke off, then you get the bad running.

 

[Dragon Master]

Hmmm...

If non of the above work, this sounds a bit like a problem I had on my 1100 a few years back. Like yours it was running all right; I'd done about twenty miles on a run when it just died, though there was a small amount of popping and farting as it did so. But then the symptoms were very similar to yours.

It turned out that I had a hairline split in one of the fuel pipes; not enough to cause a leak, but enough to let air in and lower the pressure. Not sure exactly how that works on a pressurised system, but that's what they told me at Allan Jeffries. They put a new bit of pipe on, and end of problem.

Cheers,

Dave.

 

[Shez_ow01]

All who suggested Hall sensors give yourselves a pat on the back

Got it back from the dealers on Friday, they had it a while and emptied my wallet but fixed it. Must have hated working on my bike, all the others in there were gleaming mine is a workhorse.

They seem to be taking it in turns now, this morning my f650 ex-BMW rally bike refused to start, not unusual if it has not been used for a week or two.

Thanks for all the advice

Shez

 

[nunesaf]

All who suggested Hall sensors give yourselves a pat on the back

Got it back from the dealers on Friday, they had it a while and emptied my wallet but fixed it. Must have hated working on my bike, all the others in there were gleaming mine is a workhorse.

They seem to be taking it in turns now, this morning my f650 ex-BMW rally bike refused to start, not unusual if it has not been used for a week or two.

Thanks for all the advice

Shez

I am glad you sorted things out!

Try to sort your F650 too and refuse to sponsor greedy dealers Is it a dead battery?

 

[Shez_ow01]

The 650 quite often has starting issues if it has not been used for a few days. the thing is so heavily modified it is an extension of the normal 650 starting issues.

All working again now, but my 1150 is now on my bench again having a bit of TLC (new fork legs, disks, pads, de-cat pipe , turbinators and a bit of paint on the tatty looking engine casings) all things I have been meaning to do for ages even had the parts just haven't had the time.

Cheers

Shez