Help/advice required fitting a new rear shock

[Rushy]

I was sure there was a thread ( by Cookie?) giving advice and pictures on how best to approach changing the rear shock on an 1150. I have searched in here and font of knowledge and cannot find it

I hope to be fitting an Ohlins rear on Saturday and , as i'm a mechanical numpty dangerously armed with a Halfords Pro socket set and torque wrench, I am a bit concerned about ;

a) The best way to approach the swap

b) Coming across something that may require a slightly special tool ( a drift etc) that I dont have

c) Needing to heat the bolts up ( I seem to remember that in the thread I read)

d) Trying to do this the day before a big run and not being able to complete the job due to one of the above. What are the odds on me having a significant problem during the swap.

Standard 2002 1150 with 30k miles.

Thanks ,

ian

 

[PIGGLET]

I replaced the rear shock on my 1100 last year and it was very straight forward.
Bike on centre stand with a ratchet strap through the front wheel and round the stand to stop it rocking off forwards.
Rear wheel off, seats off, can't remember whether I took the silencer off my 1100 but I reckon for the sake of 2 minutes it'll make the job much easier.
Put a jack or wood under the sump to hold the bike in position, put a jack under the final drive and just to say take the weight of the swing arm assembly, don't lift it.
Take off the pre-load adjuster then slacken both mounting bolts. Might have to remove the plastic seat mounting blocks to get to the top bolt
Can't remember which one I took out first but we'll go with the top one.
Once the top ones out, remove the bottom bolt then gently lower the swing arm and waggle the shock out.
I didn't do any heating of nuts or anything.
All this is from memory so if you get into it and some of the advice seems wrong, it probably is
You should loosely install the new shock then put the bikes weight on it before torquing up the mounting bolts to make sure it's seated right. Should give you details of this in the shocks destructions.
Good luck, It shouldn't take you much longer than half an hour to an hour on an 1150

 

[PIGGLET]

I was sure there was a thread ( by Cookie?) giving advice and pictures on how best to approach changing the rear shock on an 1150. I have searched in here and font of knowledge and cannot find it

I hope to be fitting an Ohlins rear on Saturday and , as i'm a mechanical numpty dangerously armed with a Halfords Pro socket set and torque wrench, I am a bit concerned about ;

a) The best way to approach the swap

b) Coming across something that may require a slightly special tool ( a drift etc) that I dont have

c) Needing to heat the bolts up ( I seem to remember that in the thread I read)

d) Trying to do this the day before a big run and not being able to complete the job due to one of the above. What are the odds on me having a significant problem during the swap.

Standard 2002 1150 with 30k miles.

Thanks ,

ian

A just have a go, it's not rocket science

B none that I remember other than sockets and allen bits

C don't remember doing any of that

D very low, but then I don't know just how much of a mechanical fcuk wit you are

 

[Steptoe]

remove the bottom bolt then gently lower the swing arm and waggle the shock out.

The bottom bolt on an 1150 bolts directly into the swingarm. Thats the only likely bolt to be a bit stubborn, and don't be gentle lining up the new shock and refitting the bolt. You'll see what i mean when you do it.

I changed whattons front and rear shocks at the hogroast on the grass in about 40 minutes.

 

[Firegus]

It`s not a hard job to do, you won`t need any special tools, I did my own 1150GS rear shock in less than an hour, and I have the mechanical expertise of Frank Spencer

 

[trotsky]

Take the exhaust off (lets you get at the bottom bolt of the shock).

Prop up the final drive on something solid. When you remove the first bolt, top or bottom, there isn't anything except friction holding the swing arm in place. It will drop at some point so put something in the way before you start.

Don't forget the front wheel to centre stand strap. To get the bottom boplt out you are pulling up and forward, much as you would do taking it off the centre stand.

The bit about heating is in relation to the bottom bolt. On some bikes this has been threadlocked in and needs heating for release. mine hadn't, and I didn't threadlock it on replacing. Then again Steptoe has taken it off again in the last couple of days to replace the clutch so gawd knows what it's like now.

 

[Rushy]

I changed whattons front and rear shocks at the hogroast on the grass in about 40 minutes.

Aaaaah , but everything just seems so easy and hassle free when you've been on grass for 40 minutes

A just have a go, it's not rocket science
I don't know just how much of a mechanical fcuk wit you are

Oh I am prepared to have a go alright but I have been known to get , ahem, stuck and or put things back in the wrong order

I used to fly microlights a few years back and I stripped back part of the airframe for some reason , can't remember why, anyway when I put it back together I had 3 bits left over I spent the rest of the day trying to work out where they came from. Never did find out ......so just went flying. It never fell out of the sky

Should give you details of this in the shocks destructions.

Shock is a low miler second hand one unit and doesn't have instructions so I was hoping for some help and as always you guys delivered.

Thanks everyone

PS Might be changing the front very soon too. Any tips for that one??

 

[D6]

its the easiest bike iv had for shock changing,if u cnt do this one , step away from the tools

 

[trotsky]

Might be changing the front very soon too. Any tips for that one??

Aye, just do it. No need to get the wheel off, just the tank. Don't lose the squidgy bit that goes under the nut at the top.

Then worry why it seemed so easy compared to the rear. Did you forget something?

 

[PIGGLET]

I used to fly microlights a few years back and I stripped back part of the airframe for some reason , can't remember why, anyway when I put it back together I had 3 bits left over I spent the rest of the day trying to work out where they came from. Never did find out ......so just went flying. It never fell out of the sky :

Nice one. It'll of increased your range

 

[D6]

Aye, just do it. No need to get the wheel off, just the tank. Don't lose the squidgy bit that goes under the nut at the top.

Then worry why it seemed so easy compared to the rear. Did you forget something?

an the sguidgy bit under the frame (like i did)

 

[Mzokk]

Rushy the Ohlins distructions can be downloaded here from their site.

http://www.ohlins.com/Portals/0/productlist/documents/mountinginstructions/MC/BM550.pdf

You might have to twiddle with the rebound adjuster and preload adjuster to get satisfactory boing. For normal riding I find two clicks less rebound than recommended and preload nearly fully backed out is fine for me I'm 13st.

 

[Rushy]

Thanks everyone it was, as you all suggested, a piece of piss.

The hardest part was getting the exhaust off , clamp bolt was well corroded, and gettting the rear wheel off which has not been off since tyre last changed and they were well tight. My 3/8" drive socket handle was too short to get any leverage on it and I hadn't got anything to lengthen the handle so I went and bought a breaker bar assuming I might need it for the bottom shock bolt too. The shock bolt didn't seem too tight in the end.

Oh and the Ohlins is superb after the worn standard shock. What a revelation!! ( Thanks to ianboydsnr for the deal )

 

[davegs]

Rear wheel

Don.t for get thid needs tightening up tight, intially 54ft pounds then 70ft pounds. I've had mine come loose 'cos I thought too tight and I'll never get it off at thje roadside wrong! so do it up tight. (don't use copper slip).
Dave gs.

 

[Rushy]

Don.t for get thid needs tightening up tight, intially 54ft pounds then 70ft pounds. I've had mine come loose 'cos I thought too tight and I'll never get it off at thje roadside wrong! so do it up tight. (don't use copper slip).
Dave gs.

Thanks for that . The bolts were dry when they came out, I put quite a bit/lot of Castrol CL Grease on them


I went out for a run yesterday so I will tighten 'em & torque 'em up again tonight.

Ian