Help! Dipped light switching off at startup on 1200 GS '10

[tallgug-09]

R1200GS, 2010, ESA, ESC

Some suceed by going to 50W some others by going to 35W... 50W is not an option for me because it's way too bright for lo-beam, even if it would please the "CANnabis"; there must be a "working for all" solution somewhere just like H7

Gave up on the 35w and went for 50w on the dipped which work fine now. Although I miss my old friend LAMPF.

 

[Dainese Brave]

I've had this problem twice on my Hid's....but hasn't shown it's head since.

I'll be interested to hear what your dealer says.....but I suspect he'll redirect you to where you bought the Hid's to be honest.

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

Has something changed on the 2010 bike? The ZF unit monitors the current being taken and it if is wrong it will disconnect and come up lamp F. The front light is supposed to be 55w so its going to see 35w as something wrong. This is the way it is on the older bikes anyway but have no idea if BMW have changed the parameters so it sees a 20w under current as ok. If nothing has been changed then to me anyway its bound to not work and I have no idea why these have been sold to you, unless of course you just went and bought them and the seller had no idea they were for main and dip beam and sold them for spots? It may work for some as there are probably variations in the ZF units. Some may be more sensitive than others but its in no way guaranteed to work unless you use the 50w version.

 

[tallgug-09]

More than enough people have issues with 50W kits and for me they are out of the question, even more stray light all over the place, if at all then 35W HID for me.
I want it to work all the time, tyring a relay harness, not too bad since it's only for lo-beam, I also have one of these error cancellers and will see if this will take care of the LAMPF!

Has something changed on the 2010 bike? The ZF unit monitors the current being taken and it if is wrong it will disconnect and come up lamp F. The front light is supposed to be 55w so its going to see 35w as something wrong. This is the way it is on the older bikes anyway but have no idea if BMW have changed the parameters so it sees a 20w under current as ok. If nothing has been changed then to me anyway its bound to not work and I have no idea why these have been sold to you, unless of course you just went and bought them and the seller had no idea they were for main and dip beam and sold them for spots? It may work for some as there are probably variations in the ZF units. Some may be more sensitive than others but its in no way guaranteed to work unless you use the 50w version.

 

[Andy B]

I've the same problem on a replacement ballast Les sent me this time last year but it's been playing up for a few months now. Battery seems fine - its kept on an Optimate IV when not in use through the winter months.

Mine's an 08 bike with 50W dipped and main beam. Swapped the ballasts for dipped and main over at the weekend and it seems to have solved the problem. My aux lights are HID's too - 35W. In three years I've been through 3 ballasts!

I'm increasingly minded to go back to Halogen - although I don't want to because where I live in the a#se end of nowhere you really need the upgrade! (and yes - I am as courteous as I can be to other road users to avoid blinding them!)

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

you will still have to draw 50w through the light circuit even if going through a relay or you it will be seen as a fault so you need to draw 50w on the original circuit plus your 35w from the battery via relay. Is it really worth it?
I agree, the 50w are too bright and I am not knocking you just giving you the facts. I pass some twat (if your reading this you know who you are and you really need to have a word with yourself) most days with his GSA burning 50w dip and what looks like 4x 50w spots. Whoever it is, is going to get crashed into because oncoming traffic have just had their retinas burnt out.You might be easier and get better light fitting a normal lamp and running a couple of spots. HID lights I believe are about to be made illegal anyway unless it was standard fit

 

[tallgug-09]

The issue is really with the HID bulb ignition procedure, I think only a relay harness (no big deal) providing direct connection to the battery solves the HID start-up procedure reliably.
You're right with the lower current draw of the relay vs. H7 and the resulting LAMPF! As long as my HID comes on and stays on I could live with the LAMPF! on the display.
I'm wondering if the BOW (Bulb Out Warning Canceller) Electrolytic Capacitor would provide a solution for the LAMPF! during the initial bulb-check routine and then during regular HID operation. I think the bulb-check routine tests for resistance, I'm not an electrical expert but I think you'd usually have to ad resitance (load) to the circuit in order to avoid LAMPF!
I might try the setup below. Used a couple pictures from the Internet and connected everything...lo-beam setup only.

you will still have to draw 50w through the light circuit even if going through a relay or you it will be seen as a fault so you need to draw 50w on the original circuit plus your 35w from the battery via relay. Is it really worth it?
I agree, the 50w are too bright and I am not knocking you just giving you the facts. I pass some twat (if your reading this you know who you are and you really need to have a word with yourself) most days with his GSA burning 50w dip and what looks like 4x 50w spots. Whoever it is, is going to get crashed into because oncoming traffic have just had their retinas burnt out.You might be easier and get better light fitting a normal lamp and running a couple of spots. HID lights I believe are about to be made illegal anyway unless it was standard fit

 

[tallgug-09]

2010 R1200GS

Now that I know that I'll use a relay harness (CAN-bus) is too sensitive on my 2010 R1200GS) I decided against using a digital slim ballast with separate igniter. On the EU/Canada model the area where the US model has the charcoal canister is a perfect mount location for a normal size ballast (built in igniter), mounting is much easier with only one housing. I'll wire the relay harness next weekend. Checked with a small bulb connected to the headlight H7 plug. LAMPF! but the small bulb stayed on, this will trigger the relay so it should work just fine.
With this setup I want to avoid that the high current inrush ~10Amps during bulb ignition makes the ZFE shut down power to the headlight plug.

iphone 4 pictures

 

[tallgug-09]

2010 R1200GS DDM Tuning 35W / 4300k

Installed DDM Tuning 35W ballast and using it with VVME 4300K bulb.
hid50.com offers best service hands down.
Gor one of these DDM Tuning kits from their: "Dual Motorcycle HID Kit"
I like this ballast and the igniter is smaller. Lo-beam only.
So far working fine, no LAMPF!.
I've also ordered the relay harness so in case the HID won't fire up I'll put in the relay and will accept the resulting LAMPF! but at least the light will be on.