I had a very similar issue with my R1150GSA is sounds as if the Hall sensor has gone. I bought a new one from Motorworks and it's a fairly easy fit. Hope this helps
Help! Two specialists unable to find splutter / stall ‘07 GS
- Thread starter Freewheel
- Start date
I had a very similar issue with my R1150GSA is sounds as if the Hall sensor has gone. I bought a new one from Motorworks and it's a fairly easy fit. Hope this helps
I'd need to get to my pc and see if I can look at the service manual but busy atm
Freewheel
Registered user
Freewheel
Registered user
Really appreciate any advice, you’re a star.
my bike with this pattern motorworks TPS unit is unrideable
their claimed fitment includes both bikes - but they list a different BMW different part number which supersedes the original all my bikes had...
So just pulled off a 10,500 mile old TPS from my 2011 GSA Twin Cam - all three OEM BMW ones have the same part number from years 2006 to 2011 and measure closer to each other than the pattern one
2011 Bike in Blue
their claimed fitment includes both bikes - but they list a different BMW different part number which supersedes the original all my bikes had...
So just pulled off a 10,500 mile old TPS from my 2011 GSA Twin Cam - all three OEM BMW ones have the same part number from years 2006 to 2011 and measure closer to each other than the pattern one
2011 Bike in Blue
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Throttle cable splitter - HTH
Freewheel
Registered user
Man am I grateful to see this!!! Thank you thank you
Glad someone could get the pics, I haven't been near my home pc yet
Freewheel
Registered user
Evening all. So, update time. I fitted the Motorworks TPS (throttle position sensor) to my 2007 model, as you suggested, isn’t compatible … but I’ve got to follow up with Motorworks. In the end I reinstalled the old throttle position sensor having had a right old time with the throttle slider box. And hey presto, bike back to normal.
QUESTION: What am I doing wrong here with these fuel tank cap/flap rubbers - every time I try to refit the rubbers seem to pop out, or it won’t line up. Advice for this numpty appreciated! …. Photo below:
R1200GS fuel tank cap reinstall
QUESTION: What am I doing wrong here with these fuel tank cap/flap rubbers - every time I try to refit the rubbers seem to pop out, or it won’t line up. Advice for this numpty appreciated! …. Photo below:
R1200GS fuel tank cap reinstall
I was checking in with a control tech mate... and he's all over it as usual. I now don't think the later TPS is an issue
4K sensors were an earlier design, the voltage the engine ECU gets is the same, but the 4K ones wear out faster... Hence why they were superseded
The slight variation across the board of all the TPS sensors I measured isn't a big deal and he doubts any of them will cause issues if things are set up correctly...
The values I have measured on all sensors look normal - but the reference values (from a table off this forum) fully anti-clock are gibberish, this type of sensor can't do it
TPS sensors of this design can wear on the wiped face, and or get dirt or tarnish build up. He gave a perfect example of tarnish, when you hear the crackles as you wind up the volume on your amp. As you wind the volume knob back and forth, the crackles vanish as the tarnish disappears and it all goes quiet when you turn it once clean.
He is on the page the bike must have its adaptions wiped - so it can start to build a new world based on the values a specific TPS is bringing to the party.
As he says, at such tiny throttle openings the difference in air flow between one smidge of throttle and a tiny bit more is so huge the variation in fuelling the engine ECU needs to control is significant. And thus a small variance in manufacture of one TPS to another will signal wild changes to the engine ECU if we just swap them out willy-nilly. So when I swapped out the sensors and rode off, the bike has no idea the TPS was changed - but the values the different TPS is now sending to the engine makes the ECU think the throttle is far more open or closed than it was vs the other TPS, and its offering very different fuelling characteristics as a result.
And with that in mind, any slop in the spindles of your throttle butterfly's will create a similar crazy random air flow for a given TPS reading
And making that all land true - I rang motorworks to ask about things (before I got my head around the fun or discussed with my neighbour), and they confirmed they have a lot of issues with owners not liking things when they've swapped out a TPS
There is a lot of misinformation about if or isn't there a new TPS set up procedure - before wiping engine adaptions and starting over you may as well try this
BMW TPS Reset TPS reset routine:
1) Disconnect battery for about 30 seconds then reconnect (causes ECU to lose it's memory of Throttle Position Sensor).
2) Turn ignition to on but DO NOT start the engine.
3) Slowly wind the throttle fully open to fully shut, repeat this three times.
4) Turn off ignition. (ECU now stores TPS position data in memory).
5) Wait 5 seconds.
6) Turn on ignition again and start bike.
Here is what my engine adaptions did when changing the TPS temporarily - before doing this I checked the bike was happy and that both lambda sensors were behaving (before and after)
With your generation GS, a failed TPS defaults the bike into a super rich map. It blows coal !! Not generally cutting out or stalling. That was more common with the 1150 Hall effect sensor. That bike also had a much more basic computer.
It could be the TPS. But it wouldn't be my first guess.
Low rev running issues on your bike is often the idle control valves. Your closed throttle and idle is controlled electronically with a solenoid. These fail or clog and often cause rough idles or poor off throttle response.
You've changed your coils so there's the easy solution done !!
It could be the TPS. But it wouldn't be my first guess.
Low rev running issues on your bike is often the idle control valves. Your closed throttle and idle is controlled electronically with a solenoid. These fail or clog and often cause rough idles or poor off throttle response.
You've changed your coils so there's the easy solution done !!
"woodruff key" is just the way the germans describe the locking wedge - deal with it.
If you read ALL the instructions they tell you to reset the adaptations at the end - can be done with GS-911 or Motoscan with latest beta software.
If you read ALL the instructions they tell you to reset the adaptations at the end - can be done with GS-911 or Motoscan with latest beta software.
thanks for finding that - after it said in the bit I posted about self learning - I didn't read further down. Crazy they wrote it like that
