How do I get my tank cover off?

batman1

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Messages
1,790
Reaction score
56
Location
North Lincs
I want to run some wires under the red plastic tank cover, I have removed the 3 screws from the front near to the headstock, and the 2 screws from the rear, but it still appears to be clipped or fastened, do I need to remove the ring of screws from the tank filla?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks guys! :thumb2
 
I seem to recall you have to remove a couple of the grey side panel retaining bolts. It is basically a push fit around the fuel filler but a tight push fit with multiple plastic lugs. It was just a bit of gentle persuasion. I initially removed the filler cap but I do not think it was necessary or recommended as it opened fuel to the air.
 
The centre section is held on with 5 screws (the ones you have removed). Then you carefully pull it up. There are 4 (I think) lugs that fit into rubber grommets under the centre section between the tank filler cap and the front seat. This makes it quite stiff to pull up.
I gently wiggled mine up from both ends. Seemed to require a fair pull, had me quite worried.

Cheers
SMB
 
The centre section is held on with 5 screws (the ones you have removed). Then you carefully pull it up. There are 4 (I think) lugs that fit into rubber grommets under the centre section between the tank filler cap and the front seat. This makes it quite stiff to pull up.
I gently wiggled mine up from both ends. Seemed to require a fair pull, had me quite worried.

Cheers
SMB

I took some of my panels off the other day, and that's how I did it.:thumb
 
So the tank ring screws can stay put?

I'm about to hard-wire my intercom in from my old bike, but still wondering if I really should be going Bluetooth and getting a Cardo G9.....comments anyone!

Cheers guys!
 
So the tank ring screws can stay put?

I'm about to hard-wire my intercom in from my old bike, but still wondering if I really should be going Bluetooth and getting a Cardo G9.....comments anyone!

Cheers guys!

Yep, tank rings stay put.:thumb
 
So the tank ring screws can stay put?

I'm about to hard-wire my intercom in from my old bike, but still wondering if I really should be going Bluetooth and getting a Cardo G9.....comments anyone!

Cheers guys!

My Autocom unit with bluetooth module stops the canbus from switching off the aux power socket when its pluged in to it. You might want to check this before you hard wire else you will have a flat battery...
 
My Autocom unit with bluetooth module stops the canbus from switching off the aux power socket when its pluged in to it. You might want to check this before you hard wire else you will have a flat battery...

1. You will not get a flat battery. The CANBUS will monitor battery level and switch off the port if the battery becomes critical to enable you to still start the bike

2. The reason it stays on is because the CANABS checks the port to see if it draws power 30 seconds after you switch off the bike. If power draw is detected the port will stay powered for another pre-determined amount of time. If you unplug your port after you switch off the bike and CANBUS detects there is no power draw you will notice it will turn off the port after about 30-45 seconds and even if you plug in a device after it turns the port off the port will stay unpowered

3. You should get a proper power system that goes directly to the battery and uses a switched source to power devices only when the bike is running. Something like this will work well as an example. this leaves your port free for phones and other non-permanent connections and allows you to setup alternative ports for heated gear, powering other devices

http://www.nippynormans.com/product...ntech-ap-2-auxiliary-power-fuse-panel-cen-af2

Or

http://www.nippynormans.com/product.../item/fuzeblock-switchable-fuse-panel-fuz-fz1

Example of how I did additional ports in the rear

IMG_0967.jpg

IMG_0968.jpg
 
Hey that looks neat, can you pop around and do mine?

Seriously it does look good and thanks for your advice, which is much appreciated, what is the little block with the two output socket, is it something off the shelf or did you make it up.

Are the sockets standard hella sockets.

My pillion suffers with Raynards symtoms (white fingers at the hint of a temp drop) so she needs to wear heated gloves and I still have to sort out a socket for her, that dual socket of yours looks just the ticket! :thumby:
 
1. You will not get a flat battery. The CANBUS will monitor battery level and switch off the port if the battery becomes critical to enable you to still start the bike

2. The reason it stays on is because the CANABS checks the port to see if it draws power 30 seconds after you switch off the bike. If power draw is detected the port will stay powered for another pre-determined amount of time. If you unplug your port after you switch off the bike and CANBUS detects there is no power draw you will notice it will turn off the port after about 30-45 seconds and even if you plug in a device after it turns the port off the port will stay unpowered

3. You should get a proper power system that goes directly to the battery and uses a switched source to power devices only when the bike is running. Something like this will work well as an example. this leaves your port free for phones and other non-permanent connections and allows you to setup alternative ports for heated gear, powering other devices

http://www.nippynormans.com/product...ntech-ap-2-auxiliary-power-fuse-panel-cen-af2

Or

http://www.nippynormans.com/product.../item/fuzeblock-switchable-fuse-panel-fuz-fz1

Example of how I did additional ports in the rear

IMG_0967.jpg

IMG_0968.jpg

I have not got to the bottom of this yet OZGser. I have had various consumers pluged into the Aux socket: phone chargers / relays / heated kit and it all powers down after 30 second or so except the Autocom communications which remain powered for days without switching off. I am an electrical design engineer and this to date has got me...
 


Back
Top Bottom