How do you do yours?

[(RIP) pastyman]

Reconed the GS needed its tappets adjusting today then it dawned on me that the way I do them is not what Mr Haines says. Maybe both are correct.
I usually turn the engine until the inlet valve is fully compressed then check and adjust the exhaust tappet. Do the same with the exhaust compressed. Haines says to get the piston on tdc then do both. Is there a difference?

 

[(RIP) Proff]

old farts way

I always get pistons to TDC and see which are tight [ on the rock between exhaust and inlet stroke] and which side is loose [firing stroke] adjust f/s ones rotate engine one complete turn and do other side

 

[Steptoe]

. Is there a difference?

You'll save yourself time doing it the haynes way ( it's also the factory way) , being able to measure both inlet and outlet at the same time, and with the piston in the same place and valves both matched for both sides.

Why make a simple job harder ???

 

[sorebums]

Reconed the GS needed its tappets adjusting today then it dawned on me that the way I do them is not what Mr Haines says. Maybe both are correct.
I usually turn the engine until the inlet valve is fully compressed then check and adjust the exhaust tappet. Do the same with the exhaust compressed. Haines says to get the piston on tdc then do both. Is there a difference?

I do mine like you do.

 

[sycomoto]

go the haines way

the haines way as it'll save you time. and don't forget to put the sump plug in if your doing the oil as flipfly once said "fukin thing don't half take some oil" arr i said but it'll take less if yer put the sump plug back in.
Hey you taught us everything you know.....

 

[(RIP) pastyman]

the haines way as it'll save you time. and don't forget to put the sump plug in if your doing the oil as flipfly once said "fukin thing don't half take some oil" arr i said but it'll take less if yer put the sump plug back in.
Hey you taught us everything you know.....

I have done it both ways but I dont think the haines way is any quicker as it is not always easy to get the piston on tdc. Easier to get the individual valves fully compressed and adjust the other one. Not saying Im right hence the question in this thread. I remember doing car tappets by compressing valve no 1 and checking valve no8. then 2 and7. etc etc. as long as the two added up to 9 the valves were right.
Anyway Si im not sure what the sump plug has to do with this and I only TRIED to teach you

 

[cookie]

take plugs out, bike in top gear, turn rear wheel. put yer thumb over the plughole & feel for compression stroke. stick a screwdriver down the plughole to find TDC. do both inlet & exhaust clearances. repeat for other side.

what could be simpler?

works on 4 valves and every other engine i can think of too. don't trap the screwdriver & definitely don't use a pencil DAMHIK

the reason the factory, and in a rare case of providing the correct info, the haines manual, both say to do the valves at TDC is to ensure that the cam follower is more or less in the middle of the base circle of the cam. do it anywhere else & you risk being on the ramp. not a good idea really

 

[Steptoe]

I have done it both ways but I dont think the haines way is any quicker as it is not always easy to get the piston on tdc.

take plugs out, bike in top gear, turn rear wheel. put yer thumb over the plughole & feel for compression stroke. stick a screwdriver down the plughole to find TDC. do both inlet & exhaust clearances. repeat for other side.

what could be simpler?

:

As cookie says - how easy is that. Put it in gear, turn the rear wheel. I watch for the inlet valves to close, put a thin screwdriver down the plug "ole", turn the rear wheel tilthe screwdriver is pushed out to it's furthest limit. 10 seconds max

The only reason cars tell you to check valves when another is closed is because your checking the valves more than one cylinder at a time. On the BM your checking the same cylinder for both valves at the same time on the compression stroke.
The way your doing it works , but is bad mechanical practise, and creating twice the amount of work for no benefit whatsoever .
Do that in a workshop and you'd get a torque wrench "round yer er ole" from the foreman

 

[Deleted account 220427002]

. 10 seconds max

we don't have that kind of time to spare nowdays

 

[cookie]

we don't have that kind of time to spare nowdays

the fact that we're here rather contradicts that

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Or watch the other cylinder for valve cross-over, which is tdc on both, compression on the opposite one. No need to remove le plugs....

 

[Steptoe]

. No need to remove le plugs....

So what time saving device do you use to turn the engine over ?

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

So what time saving device do you use to turn the engine over ?

Starter motor to get close (exh valve closing) and back wheel in 3rd gear for exact (inlet valve starting to open).

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

So what time saving device do you use to turn the engine over ?

tap the starter button

works much quicker on jap bikes

do 4 a day for a while and u'll quickly find the quickest way

set the feelers up to go/no go and find TDC

as cookie says - its to do with the quietening ramps on the cams

TDC is where the valves need to be shut - everything else is consequential

 

[Steptoe]

. No need to remove le plugs....

But your servicing the bike ?????. Do you not change them, or want to see what they look like, especially on an airhead

 

[(RIP) pastyman]

Thanks for the advice guys, Seems to have brought out a few differing views. I defer to superior knowledge as I am from the "liverpool screwdriver" school. I,ll do em again proper!!

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Steptoe,
Prolly right about airhead, but if the bike is running right, the plugs always seem fine. Changed many plugs, but apart from the old 2-stroke plug-eaters, I don't remember seeing any that really had to be changed.
Bin