Agothaclypse
Registered user
Recieved 6000K H1 HID50 kit from Les Wassall, Thank you Les.
Got around to fitting it last weekend & to say I am stunned with the results is an understatement. For anyone considering this modification, I cannot recommend it enough. Makes a huge difference, is cheap & a doddle to fit.
1. First I removed screen, headlight cowl, headlight unit & beak.
2. Headlight unit ready for conversion.
3. Location of ballasts. I had originally intended to fit the ballasts on either side of the steering well, thus leaving the under beak area free for HID auxillary lighting ballasts, should I choose to fit them in future. However I could not find a position I was entirely happy with, but whilst furtling around I spied an airspace within the beak. I taped the ballasts to the beak with the mated dual lock between ballast & beak but with dual lock adhesive backing still in place.
4. Replaced beak to ensure nothing was fouling & that beak fixing holes aligned.
5. Marked tested position of ballasts.
6. Removed one adhesive backing and stuck mated dual lock to ballasts.
7. Stuck ballasts to beak, aligning with markings made earlier, clamped & left overnight to allow adhesive to cure.
8. Marked wire colours on caps & removed pins & caps.
9. 25mm dia holes drilled in caps using a holesaw.
10. I will carry one of these 25mm dia closed grommets + a std H1 bulb, which will allow me to convert back to std in the event of ballast/burner failure whilst out on the road.
11. Slipped burner thru cap, replaced burner in protective housing & reattached wiring. Brown wire spade connector required slight pinch with pliers to make connection secure.
12. Completed headlight unit, ready to refit to bike.
13. Headlight unit refitted to bike.
14. Routed wiring inside steering well & cable tied to front subframe. This is the only part I am not happy with, as it will make subsequent beak/ front subframe removal difficult. Solution ! I have bought some more dual lock & will attatch the small black boxes which run from the thick black wire of the ballasts to the inside of the steering well fairing & will tidy the wires using reusable cable ties.
15. Connected HID wiring up & nearly blinded myself with the results. Yes ! they are that bright.
I have just completed a week of nightshift, so have been able to assess the results of the conversion under varying light & weather conditions. I have been amazed. relective signs, vehicle strips & Hi-Viz apparall is incredibly bright, also I can tell that I am more visible to other road users & on unlit roads, its like having your own personal star sat on the front of your bike.
Regards
Paul
Got around to fitting it last weekend & to say I am stunned with the results is an understatement. For anyone considering this modification, I cannot recommend it enough. Makes a huge difference, is cheap & a doddle to fit.
1. First I removed screen, headlight cowl, headlight unit & beak.
2. Headlight unit ready for conversion.
3. Location of ballasts. I had originally intended to fit the ballasts on either side of the steering well, thus leaving the under beak area free for HID auxillary lighting ballasts, should I choose to fit them in future. However I could not find a position I was entirely happy with, but whilst furtling around I spied an airspace within the beak. I taped the ballasts to the beak with the mated dual lock between ballast & beak but with dual lock adhesive backing still in place.
4. Replaced beak to ensure nothing was fouling & that beak fixing holes aligned.
5. Marked tested position of ballasts.
6. Removed one adhesive backing and stuck mated dual lock to ballasts.
7. Stuck ballasts to beak, aligning with markings made earlier, clamped & left overnight to allow adhesive to cure.
8. Marked wire colours on caps & removed pins & caps.
9. 25mm dia holes drilled in caps using a holesaw.
10. I will carry one of these 25mm dia closed grommets + a std H1 bulb, which will allow me to convert back to std in the event of ballast/burner failure whilst out on the road.
11. Slipped burner thru cap, replaced burner in protective housing & reattached wiring. Brown wire spade connector required slight pinch with pliers to make connection secure.
12. Completed headlight unit, ready to refit to bike.
13. Headlight unit refitted to bike.
14. Routed wiring inside steering well & cable tied to front subframe. This is the only part I am not happy with, as it will make subsequent beak/ front subframe removal difficult. Solution ! I have bought some more dual lock & will attatch the small black boxes which run from the thick black wire of the ballasts to the inside of the steering well fairing & will tidy the wires using reusable cable ties.
15. Connected HID wiring up & nearly blinded myself with the results. Yes ! they are that bright.
I have just completed a week of nightshift, so have been able to assess the results of the conversion under varying light & weather conditions. I have been amazed. relective signs, vehicle strips & Hi-Viz apparall is incredibly bright, also I can tell that I am more visible to other road users & on unlit roads, its like having your own personal star sat on the front of your bike.
Regards
Paul