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That's niceThat's what a friend of mine paid 8 years ago - £25k
This is £20k
not HPN, but lots of money spent on it
If you were building an "off-road" airhead for on-road use what would you use
- Thread starter BillN
- Start date
That's nice
I'm sure they could turn out a more "off road" Bike similar to that for the same money - did you look at the images on the "Rave in France" thread?
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/460031-Current-Rage-in-France
presumably they are powder coating engines as well as wheels - or are they painted?
Beemerboff
Registered user
I have both a mono and a para, with a well set up Ohlins on both there isn't a lot of difference, and the reliability of the mono seals it for me, but the GS can be improved slightly at considerable cost, if money doesnt concern you.
FWIW a paralever acts like infinitely long swinging arm, so from a handling point of view there is no advantage in a longer para, unless you are like to ride off the end of tables , etc, etc, like most of the folks who have fitted them - Utube has all the details--------.
G/S forks will be worn enough by now to need a billet top triple and tubular lower brace, but dialed in to suit an Ohlins are good enough for the rest of the bike.
My GS has HPN inserts which suit the stock Ohlins perfectly, and no one who has tried them claims to have anything better - in fact one guy actually removed his USD set up and went back to stock dialed in to match the HPN.
I have never had the slightest trouble with the stock charging system on any of my bikes over almost half a million k's, but I do stick to the rules.
EME has good quality Valeo knock offs which have sorted out the weak spots of the old ones, I have 200,000 trouble free km on one.
Both starters and charging systems like a good battery, a top quality AGM should be the minimum, and dont wait on it failing-----.
FWIW there is a guy on ADV who has enough of the long green to have had several wankmobiles built for him by lauded demi gods , both in the US and Oz, and his advice is to fit an Ohlins and forget the rest.
Metz Enduro 3s are the best of the 50/50 tires i have found if you buy tires for grip, not for their looks, TKs among the worst I have tried, mediocre everywhere. Anekee 3s come in GS sizes and are excellent too, but no mud or sand!
My G/S stops OK with the stock caliper, 11mm master cylinder and EBC hh pads, but it isn't hard to lock a 90 mm 50/50 tire!
I like the big G/S tank, I think it actually improves the handling , and it is nice not to have to plan your day round petrol stops, but even in Oz you dont really need the 600 km range between fill ups.
By now most G/S wiring be past its best so factor in the cost of a new harness and the other 20 or so bits that complete the system.
I have 1000 factory barrels and pistons on my G/S with a Boyer Micro power ignition system and it makes enough power for the rest of the bike.
Mikuni carbs might work better than stock for some folks, but there are dozens of different set ups out there, if you spent the same time finding the best set up for Bings youy probably wouldn't find as much difference.
Bit like the fancy fork swaps, I suppose--------------.
Hope there is enough room on the furum far an alternative point of view------------.
FWIW a paralever acts like infinitely long swinging arm, so from a handling point of view there is no advantage in a longer para, unless you are like to ride off the end of tables , etc, etc, like most of the folks who have fitted them - Utube has all the details--------.
G/S forks will be worn enough by now to need a billet top triple and tubular lower brace, but dialed in to suit an Ohlins are good enough for the rest of the bike.
My GS has HPN inserts which suit the stock Ohlins perfectly, and no one who has tried them claims to have anything better - in fact one guy actually removed his USD set up and went back to stock dialed in to match the HPN.
I have never had the slightest trouble with the stock charging system on any of my bikes over almost half a million k's, but I do stick to the rules.
EME has good quality Valeo knock offs which have sorted out the weak spots of the old ones, I have 200,000 trouble free km on one.
Both starters and charging systems like a good battery, a top quality AGM should be the minimum, and dont wait on it failing-----.
FWIW there is a guy on ADV who has enough of the long green to have had several wankmobiles built for him by lauded demi gods , both in the US and Oz, and his advice is to fit an Ohlins and forget the rest.
Metz Enduro 3s are the best of the 50/50 tires i have found if you buy tires for grip, not for their looks, TKs among the worst I have tried, mediocre everywhere. Anekee 3s come in GS sizes and are excellent too, but no mud or sand!
My G/S stops OK with the stock caliper, 11mm master cylinder and EBC hh pads, but it isn't hard to lock a 90 mm 50/50 tire!
I like the big G/S tank, I think it actually improves the handling , and it is nice not to have to plan your day round petrol stops, but even in Oz you dont really need the 600 km range between fill ups.
By now most G/S wiring be past its best so factor in the cost of a new harness and the other 20 or so bits that complete the system.
I have 1000 factory barrels and pistons on my G/S with a Boyer Micro power ignition system and it makes enough power for the rest of the bike.
Mikuni carbs might work better than stock for some folks, but there are dozens of different set ups out there, if you spent the same time finding the best set up for Bings youy probably wouldn't find as much difference.
Bit like the fancy fork swaps, I suppose--------------.
Hope there is enough room on the furum far an alternative point of view------------.
Edward
Registered user
I'd save myself the bother and buy a R80ST.
I wouldn't have a massive tank.
I think this is perfect for road and good enough/better than me off tarmac.
The dellortos make it move a little quicker too.
TKC front and Heidenau back make for good enough in all weathers and look proper too
Brakes are OK for single rider - no pillion though
Mine does go off tarmac but easy stuff and dry if possible.
I am a bit biased Bill
Nicely sorted and practical bike Mick. Is that a GPS at the top of the screen or just a spoiler?
a good review - thanks
My R80ST. Bought off here for 2.5k. Seat and tank sourced second hand. Chopped up an old Paralever subframe. Alloy guards from Netley jumble (Dutch firm with lots of airhead goodies) Venhill cables. M unit electrics. Sold the original panniers so about 4K all together. Even less if I sold all the unused ST bits.
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I can see why you want a 21" wheel now Paul - there is one on German EBay, but it is expensive and the condition looks rough for the money
(I still preferred your PD - I had a couple of Basics and a G/S at the time, but I still marvelled at your PD - as I saw it being built)
Good luck, Bill
That's what a friend of mine paid 8 years ago - £25k
This is £20k
not HPN, but lots of money spent on it
No balance pipes and pod filters!! he doesn't like mid range then
Yep Its one of me 2610 Garmins with openstreetmaps loaded.
markjackson
Registered user
My monolever ST - G/S certainly 'feels' a smaller and lighter than the Paralever Kalahari, even tho I know that statistically they are really similar. But both feel tiny after an oilhead GS.
On the paralever the rear suspension was never really noticeable; with a good (serviced WP) shock fitted it just worked.
The mono lever is more like my twin-shock, doing the bobbing 'n dipping thing; reminding me I'm still not riding smoothly enough.
So on my limited experience I'd say the paralever is definitely a better solution... but I love how the monolever looks, and how simple it is.
At the front, I'm not certain how much of the later bike's improvement is down to having a proper top yoke, (rather than fatter forks) but I bet (having had perfectly good results with 35mm forks elsewhere) that thin forks in proper yokes would be better than any forks with just a little steel plate under the bars.
Having said this, my 'inferior' forks/yokes and rear end doesn't bother me one bit; its limitations are part of it charm for me.
It is was something that doesn't go off road it could (if it had 1000ccs) usefully pull a higher final drive too. My R90S has a silly tall 'diff', but still pulls it very nicely.
On the paralever the rear suspension was never really noticeable; with a good (serviced WP) shock fitted it just worked.
The mono lever is more like my twin-shock, doing the bobbing 'n dipping thing; reminding me I'm still not riding smoothly enough.
So on my limited experience I'd say the paralever is definitely a better solution... but I love how the monolever looks, and how simple it is.
At the front, I'm not certain how much of the later bike's improvement is down to having a proper top yoke, (rather than fatter forks) but I bet (having had perfectly good results with 35mm forks elsewhere) that thin forks in proper yokes would be better than any forks with just a little steel plate under the bars.
Having said this, my 'inferior' forks/yokes and rear end doesn't bother me one bit; its limitations are part of it charm for me.
It is was something that doesn't go off road it could (if it had 1000ccs) usefully pull a higher final drive too. My R90S has a silly tall 'diff', but still pulls it very nicely.
airhead_eire
Registered user
I find that to be no longer the case: you can buy a replacement housing for the Valeo model that has spring clips
as well as adhesive which cures the old Valeo foible of having its magnets fall off. I have both and I much prefer the
Valeo over the Bosch item: the Bosch starter weighs a ton, spins slower and is harder on the battery !
I put this together out of parts for running round our B roads. Works a treat
Its a paralever frame with genuine BMW Basic subframe. R65 petrol tank. 1981 R100RS engine, pistons and barrels. 336 cam and moorespeed one piece big valves. Genuine collector box essential for max midrange
Its a paralever frame with genuine BMW Basic subframe. R65 petrol tank. 1981 R100RS engine, pistons and barrels. 336 cam and moorespeed one piece big valves. Genuine collector box essential for max midrange
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