Information about the R90S fairing

byron

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My 75 bike has its fairing damaged around the left upper strut and was sort of repaired by the previous owner with araldite. It is a genuine BMW fairing and I would like to repair it prior to getting it painted, however is it GRP or another plastic. I can probably repair the GRP prior to giving it to the painters.

However I have also bought a Motoworks replacement fairing kit a few months ago and although I am happy with the black curved dash and the screen the actual fairing seems to have a variable thickness and I am reluctant to use it. I would appreciate any advice.
 
Is the cheapo fairing with the brackets that fit to the fork top nuts? If it is the dash is a genuine bmw one, screens ok but the rest wants chucking in the bin.

Www.flatracer.com do a better pattern alternative to the s fairing.

Plastex is a good product for repairing your original fairing.
 
Thanks for that website it does look good so if I can't repair the old one I think I have to buy one of those.
 
I am not sure about plastex I've only ever use GRP to make canoes etc and model boat hulls. Do use in the same way with matting ?
 
is it GRP or another plastic. I can probably repair the GRP prior to giving it to the painters.

The fairing that came on mine was a genuine BMW one (albeit fitted with horrific spoilers) but looking at a repaired area (and the holes drilled in the sides:blast) it certainly seems like GRP, rather than the ABS type stuff on most Japanese bikes. On this basis (in theory) it can be properly repaired using a bit more fiberglass and still stay original?

My Ginger bodywork should be home from the painters in a couple of weeks. I'm excited! :bounce1
 
Painting

I am curious where did you get your bodywork painted and if you don't mind me asking what was the ball park price as I have had some high quotes.
 
It's with 'Colourworx' in Sunny Scunny. Jonno at Colourworx hadn't done a 90S before but had my new/old original BMW paint fairing for a paint match (which has been sitting in a dark attic for 30 years, so shouldn't be too faded) and is an airbrush expert who does stuff for the scooter fraternity, who I imagine are more finicky than me:barf:D

I work in Scunny regularly and can leave bike bits safely in my office there, so it also made logistical sense.

All the panels were in good condition, albeit an array of different colours, so we agreed £300. It might be Grim Oop North but If the job is good it will excellent value.

Hopefully I know in a few days, and will post photos.

At least I've still got the Blue Metalflake /7 tank for if I want to enter any 70s bad-taste Custom-Car shows:D

12978925944_17b8570283.jpg
 
Thanks very much for that Mark I will give him a call in the week.
 
Back in my kit car days I had dome success with glass fibre repairs.
I'm risking granny & eggs syndrome but hey. :)
Bend some thick aluminium strip to the correct profile and stick it to the outside of the repair with thin number plate pads.
This holds the adjacent parts correctly in line.
On the inside angle grind the glass fibre 50% down at the cracked area and feather it back to good material.
Prime and apply mat the ground out area and allow to cure.
Take the support strip off and grind the old cracked glass fibre away to the new material. Don't leave any cracks. They will work through over time.
Feather edges well back.
Prime and glass mat leaving one mm low for filling.
Fill and rub down etc to the finished profile.

You have to be fussy but its rewarding to see old crack fibre glad brought back as new.

I've repaired ABS with plumbers pipe gap filling cement. But TBH car bumper repairers will do a better job. They may need the aluminium strip jig to keep it in line.
 
THANKS

Back in my kit car days I had dome success with glass fibre repairs.
I'm risking granny & eggs syndrome but hey. :)
Bend some thick aluminium strip to the correct profile and stick it to the outside of the repair with thin number plate pads.
This holds the adjacent parts correctly in line.
On the inside angle grind the glass fibre 50% down at the cracked area and feather it back to good material.
Prime and apply mat the ground out area and allow to cure.
Take the support strip off and grind the old cracked glass fibre away to the new material. Don't leave any cracks. They will work through over time.
Feather edges well back.
Prime and glass mat leaving one mm low for filling.
Fill and rub down etc to the finished profile.

You have to be fussy but its rewarding to see old crack fibre glad brought back as new.

I've repaired ABS with plumbers pipe gap filling cement. But TBH car bumper repairers will do a better job. They may need the aluminium strip jig to keep it in line.

Thanks for that and I am going to repair the old fairing in the first instance.
cheers
 


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