IntegeralABS - to remove it or not!!!!

[delpel]

Whats the braking like on a Non ABS fitted GS? - very subjective I know but the reason I ask is that I am toying with the idea of ripping the ABS and servo system out of my 2003 project rebuild. I am having issues with the system and I'm exploring all options. See my previous thread on the problem.

I know the brake light electrics run through the control unit but thats nothing an inline pressure switch wouldn't cure.

What could possibly be easier:

1, Drain the fluids and pullout all the gubbins and semi permanent lines.
2, Remove the ABS relay to stop the lights blinking.
3, fit braided lines from the master cylinder to each caliper and bleed new fluid through.
4, Test installation very gingerly

What could be harder.

OK so has anybody done this or know of someone who has done this.

 

[Fanum]

I'd imagine (but really don't know) that the 'basic kit' that you'd be left with must be inferior to the kit fitted to non-abs 1150's, as the 'residual braking' is less from an ABS bike with failed servos as compared to the non-abs version.

Whether they have smaller pots, different pads and/or some other difference that relies on the Servo power to make up the braking action I really don't know, but I do suspect what you're suggesting won't be as simple as you think.

 

[Wizard]

Can't swear to it but I'd be willing to lay odds that the servo is activated via a pressure switch, and the fact of "residual" braking would be entirely down to the construction of the hydraulics restricting the manually pumped fluid so as to give consistant operation in normal (assisted) usage.

 

[Fanum]

Sounds more than likely Wizard....and it'd mean replacing all the tubing, pistons and lines with 'standard' stuff.

 

[Wizard]

Maybe this'll get the real experts out.
























Anyone want a free kebab?

 

[cookie]

i've ridden one with the servo off & residual braking is less than my non servo bike, but still usable. harder pull is needed.

perhaps a larger master cylinder is used on the servo bikes? that would account for the increased pressure required when the servo is off.

calipers look much the same, but you'd have to check specs to be sure.

i'd say if the caliper & master cylinder pistons are made the same size as non servo bikes & servo & associated gubbins is removed it should work fine. why would it not?

pure speculation though

 

[Steptoe]

The front calipers on a servo bike take slightly larger pads than a "normal" bike, so the braking should be slightly better with standard brake lines and no servo unit to drag - The master cylinder is the same bore/diameter .

I don't know anyone thats removed their servo system, the only problem i can see involves the electrical side, i.e. the power to the servo and what knock on effects it might have on totally unrelated areas ( you know how parculier BM electrics can be) .

 

[sproggy]

Whats the braking like on a Non ABS fitted GS?

Good enough to lift the rear wheel under hard braking in the dry (with 020's, didn't try it with Tourances). That's with Ferodo pads fitted. In other words, perfectly adequate.

Compared to a 2003 servo system the non-assisted system has far more 'feel' and is much more confidence inspiring and progessive IMO. The servo system on the 1200GS is better than on 2003 1150's but even then I still prefer non-servo. Less to go wrong, too

 

[Le singe]

I've done the usual braided hose conversion on my 1100 and I find the non-ABS/servo set-up more than capable of evoking protests from the front tyre.
Agree with Sproggy about the simplicity.

 

[delpel]

I've done some digging on different BMW boards. There is a guy on the Pelican board who has done what they call an ABSectomy. He just ripped everything out and ran stainless braided hoses from the front master cylinder to each caliper. No cross over pipe.

From my digging I have found the brake levers operate a control cirvuit which then operates a servo circuit to the calipers. This is why residual braking is hard work. The other issue comes done to the brake light switch which runs from the ABS control unit.

So if when I get it to the dealer for a reset I am presented with a large repair bill I will probably rip the ABS stuff out and fit some Goodridge lines. You can get an inline hydraulic brake light switch and wire is cheap.

Hopefully it will not come to this but it's an option. Will keep you posted.

P.S. Why does my browser shut down when i try and open this post? Have had to get on a mates putor to write this.