Is it corrision and other Qs

[Cyclistbruce]

So after allways being a jap bike man, I've ridden my Honda off a bridge and with the insurance money bought a 2000reg 1150GS. I do a lot of heavy miles both commuting and in my weekend job as a motorbike medic for cycling events. So all weathers and conditions. I like to maintain it, (bearing in mind it can't be out of use for too long), but don't worry too much about looking beautiful! Few Qs!

Q1 - I've noticed what looks like blown paintwork on the intial part of the shaft drive cover. Is there likely to be corrosion underneath and if so, whats the best way of sorting it I've attached a pic (in my defence taken pre-wash!)

Q2 - Whats the best way of sorting this corrosion on forks? Polish out? What about gators?

Q3 - I've read a bit on here about painting up the engine cover? Was thinking about powdercoating though, is this better/easier?!

Q4 - Any tips on best product to polish up the exhaust/remove tar spots!

Q5 - Wheels have lots of small corrosion spots on them, was planning to powdercoat but have read on here that this causes problem with corrosion at join with spokes, any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[Andy63]

My tip (and you could test it with the bottom of your forks) is Hammerite smooth silver aerosol is an almost perfect match for the BMW alloy silver.

I would de-grease your forks, sand with 800 grade wet & dry clean with thinners take off the wheel and mask up everything you don't want over spraying and give a couple of coats.

You could do the same with the engine cover and get really good results, however the gearbox looks more painful. You will need significant work on this to get a good finish.

As for polishing the exhaust I use a polishing mop and cutting paste on mine but mine are stainless so it takes the browned surface off to a chrome finish.
This doesn't last though with stainless, but guessing yours are chrome if they are pitted then they will always re-rust but would look much better.

The issue with a polishing mop is it can spray the bike with speckles of cutting paste which can be a pain in the arse to remove so again worth masking off what you don't want covered in it.

Advice only

 

[ninjarich1971]

WD40 is absolutely one of the best things for removing tar spots. Spray it on, leave for five mins then wipe spots off with rag, easy

 

[Cyclistbruce]

Great advice thanks. How urgent a task do you reckon the gearbox is. Bit worried about what's going on under there!

 

[Andy63]

I'm guessing this probably stems from a brake fluid leak/spillage in the past affecting the coating that has lifted to allow moisture to the alloy, over time creeping under the paint.

The longer you leave it the more it will creep and get worse, if you have a go at it, there is a risk that may look worse (what I mean is might be a pitted finish) but you will probably stop the (alloy) corrosion.

You could use a small wire brush on a drill to remove the corrosion powder that's under the paint surface, then sand back with 600 then 800 finally 1000 grade wet and dry, the problem is getting into the corners/angles.

When you mask up to spray mask in the angle lines of the castings Not in an open area where it can show where its been painted. it will give a better finish or hide the masking lines better.

The more you work at this the better the finish.

 

[ninjarich1971]

Once you wire brush the corrosion off you will need a good etch primer first.

 

[Wrigsby1]

The gearbox paint corrosion is fairly standard for a bike that has been used all year and not washed very often... The paint is pretty thick and once the corrosion gets underneath then it creeps along the paint and lifts big areas... It in nothing to worry about re any reliability and if you start taking it off you will be left with a large area of white dusty alloy... If you start then give it a good clean and if you keep it clean you can paint it later... The main thing is it may look shite but doesn't affect the bike as the alloy is pretty thick... I would have likely started at the joint between the gearbox and the bell housing which is assembled dry...

I bought a similarly corroded 11GS and TBH even though I have had plans to tidy it, I haven't bothered in 2 1/2 years of ownership as it rides very well and I don't stand there and look at it all the time...

 

[Cyclistbruce]

Thanks for the advice, I'll leave the gearbox alone for now, it can be one of those projects that don't make it past planning! The others seem doable on my week off though.

What's the best way to tart up wheels if powder coating isn't an option?