K75 things to look for.

[topcat2006]

Been offered a K75 (not sure which model) for £750. It's got a years MOT and tax, a resprayed tank and fairing, new rear tyre and breaks and just serviced. It's 1985 and has 60k on the clock

It seems to be not stupid money for the age an condition.

Anything to check for with these?

I've heard of water pump and shaft stories - how do you check if that's on the way out?

I'm looking for a winter project but one which is cost effective. I've done lots of work on the K100 so in assuming it's quite similar to that.

Thanks

Tom

 

[Timolgra]

http://www.verrill.com/moto/newkbike.shtml

 

[Lord Snooty]

The clocks can incur condensation inside on the earlier models. Any problems starting are usually cured by a change of plugs - mine is a 93 model on 121000 miles and starts first turn every time. Any probs with lights and electrics are usually down to worn brushes on the starter motor - easy to replace. If there is a bit of play in the final shaft don't worry too much, I replaced mine at 105000 miles so at 60k you have a long way to go - Motobins or motoworks do a replacement service for just £95 when it eventually does go. My clutch lasted 95k miles.

Fork seals can leak but often it is just crap that needs cleaning away, I use a Seal Mate tool to hook the crud out.

Don't worry about valve adjustment, I just do oil and filter changes and it just keeps going.

Brilliant engine that is over engineered and pretty unbreakable.

 

[topcat2006]

Brilliant, thanks Timolgra and Lord Snooty.

 

[Timolgra]

I had an intermittent non starting issue with the dash lights dimming, cleaned and checked the starter but it turned out (quite obviously ) to be a bad contact in the ignition switch.

On Mike P's advise I fitted Pirelli Sport Demon tyres and RAM rear shock, then used 10w fork oil ...... still handles like a bag of shite but I love and use it almost daily.
I average 51/52 mpg.
Just had to replace a leaking clutch push rod rubber boot.

I'm using Castrol Syntax 75/140 oil in the gearbox which still hasn't sorted a gear change issue.

The issue is changing up from either 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th ..... there's no resistance, so no gear change, the only way round it is to either tap the end of the gear lever inward with my boot (although there's no play) or momentarily roll the throttle.
I'll pull the gearbox soon and lube the input splines to see if that helps?

 

[MikeP]

I'm using Castrol Syntax 75/140 oil in the gearbox which still hasn't sorted a gear change issue.

The issue is changing up from either 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th ..... there's no resistance, so no gear change, the only way round it is to either tap the end of the gear lever inward with my boot (although there's no play) or momentarily roll the throttle.
I'll pull the gearbox soon and lube the input splines to see if that helps?

It's either the gearbox return pawl spring or the arm return spring. Both cheap as chips:

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=DA&SbCt=BA_15_40_DA_75

 

[Timolgra]

It's either the gearbox return pawl spring or the arm return spring. Both cheap as chips:

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=DA&SbCt=BA_15_40_DA_75

Thank you Mike, you're a star, I suspected as much but thought I'd lube the splines anyway although I've only read of problems downshifting.
Looks like I've a busy day coming up soon

 

[Edward]

Check that the fan is working and see if you can ascertain if the driveshaft splines have been lubricated.

 

[Timolgra]

Check that the fan is working and see if you can ascertain if the driveshaft splines have been lubricated.

Fan's not working on mine, only done 44k miles but they don't seem to overheat much which is probably why it's almost seized ie. lack of use. I'll get another when I get round to it.

If they give you a hard on then you're probably spending too much time in the gilfs section elsewhere but it's all day comfortable, so using one as a tool, it's brilliant in a quirky kind of way.

 

[Edward]

Fan's not working on mine, only done 44k miles but they don't seem to overheat much which is probably why it's almost seized ie. lack of use. I'll get another when I get round to it.

If they give you a hard on then you're probably spending too much time in the gilfs section elsewhere but it's all day comfortable, so using one as a tool, it's brilliant in a quirky kind of way.

I've no idea if mine is still working or not.

 

[MikeP]

I've no idea if mine is still working or not.

Leave it idling. If the temp warning light starts flickering before you hear the fan cut in, then it's toast.

I've tried repairing them but with no success. Just sourced one for a K75S that was working fine twelve months ago.

 

[Timolgra]

Leave it idling. If the temp warning light starts flickering before you hear the fan cut in, then it's toast.

I poked mine with a stick

 

[Lord Snooty]

Nothing wrong with my fan, it's great when it kicks in when at a standstill in Birmingham traffic in 25C - all that lovely hot air blowing upwards over the legs is great

 

[cele0001]

I got a k75RT and it is the hottest bike I have ever ridden. In Florida heat it is unbearable. I will keep it to see how it does in the winter but right not it is useless.

 

[deangsadv]

I was loaned one as a courtesy bike years ago, it was the most terrifying experience on 2 wheels I have ever had, I had to ride it from Bolton to Preston in rush hour traffic, it was so slow that every car on the road was pushing past setting off from traffic lights and the motorway was a nightmare. Never again would I sit astride one of those things.