loosening verrrrrrrrrrrry tight bolt

[walkon40]

I am trying to fit a H&B engine guard to my 1150GS and need to loosen two frame bolts. They are both seriously tight and I don't want to risk breaking them off. Anyone got any suggestions how I can possibly loosen them (heat? swearing? bribes of chocolate?)

thanks

Martin

 

[MikeP]

Are the bolts tight because of corrosion? If so soak with de-icer (much cheaper than plus-gas and does the same thing.)

If not corrosion, find the torque settings for the bolts, set a torque-wrench to the value and try that. If that doesn't loosen them, step up the torque value a little at a time.

Heat; Might be best to use some local heat from a hot-air gun if you have one in conjunction with the torque-wrench.

 

[Commuter]

What he said. Careful though, I remember seeing a bike in Wollastons BMW having a new thread placed in the aforementioned hole as someone had rounded the head so badly. You may want to use an impact hammer to give it a loosen up.

 

[Wizard]

Both of the above. De-icer & impact driver or "rattle gun" (pneumatic driver)

 

[boxer]

IF we're talking about the bolts that attach the rear subframe to the gear box [H&B engine bars do mount here - yes??] I'd be reluctant to use an impact wrench.

Touratch produce Hardparts to protect these mounting points and from my own experience the material the gearbox casing is made from has the strength of silver polystyrene.

 

[Guzzler]

Are the bolts tight because of corrosion? If so soak with de-icer (much cheaper than plus-gas and does the same thing.)

If not corrosion, find the torque settings for the bolts, set a torque-wrench to the value and try that. If that doesn't loosen them, step up the torque value a little at a time.

Heat; Might be best to use some local heat from a hot-air gun if you have one in conjunction with the torque-wrench.

Sorry, but you should never use a torque wrench to loosen bolts (if you don't believe me, read the manual that came with your torque wrench).

When dealing with 'stuck' bolts, soak first. Give them some love taps on the head of the bolt to help the solvent to flow down the threads, wait. Soak, tap, repeat several times. Then try the standard wrench.

If that doesn't work, get an impact driver. If you have a compressor, an air impact rocks. If you don't have air, you can get an impact driver that uses a hammer to function (poor mans impact driver).

If THAT doesn't work, then you add heat. But only add heat to female threads (surrounding area or a nut). Never to the male threads (bolt). Use an eletric heat gun if possible. If you have to use propane torch, be CAREFUL and move the torch constantly and try not to put the flame on the material you are trying to heat up. If the material you are heating starts to glow... you've gone WAY TO FAR.

Once you have heated the female threads, try a standard wrench, if no go, try the impact again.

Good luck. 98% of the time, I've gotten by with just an impact driver.

 

[damo the onion]

Try a good 2ft breaker bar. Much better than a windyhammer because no impact shock to mash anything. Also heating gently to loosen any threadlock (a la paralever bearings) may not be a bad idea. Whatever you do use firm but steady pressure. NEVER jerk... ahem

 

[Timolgra]

NEVER jerk... ahem

After years working as a marine engineer with all sorts of seized bolts etc, I strongly disagree with above. Use a high quality and well fitting tool, then give it a twat with a lump hammer.

 

[Steptoe]

IF we're talking about the bolts that attach the rear subframe to the gear box [H&B engine bars do mount here - yes??] I'd be reluctant to use an impact wrench.

Touratch produce Hardparts to protect these mounting points and from my own experience the material the gearbox casing is made from has the strength of silver polystyrene.

Thats only for the 1100 - this bike is the stronger 1150GS - doesn't need a hardpart, it's a different gearbox case -

 

[Pukmeister]

I'm also a Marine Engineer, and have had more than a fair share of rusted solid bolts to undo. The best penetrating fluid on the market is called 'Plus Gas'. It comes in small tins and small aerosol cans. It works, given time to penetrate. I dare say the steel bolts into the aluminium casing have gripped pretty tight with corrosion on the threads.

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Lubricants&product=30700

Soak in Plus gas, use a long breaker bar and a good fitting socket with firm, constant pressure. It will probably go with a good 'crack' as the corrosion lets go and the bolt turns.

Disclaimer: If the bugger snaps off, it ain't my fault

 

[Taipan]

After years working as a marine engineer with all sorts of seized bolts etc, I strongly disagree with above. Use a high quality and well fitting tool, then give it a twat with a lump hammer.

"Impact enginering" as its widely known as! Ok, my take, soak with plus gas, wd40, de icer which ever you prefer. Apply 2ft breaker bar with a 12 sided socket on said bolt. Apply some pressure to breaker bar and then whack it with a 4lb club hammer. Once it sturning, keep it going, but slowly, too fast and heat build up can snap the bolt or strip the thread.

 

[cookie]

with a 12 sided socket on said bolt

that won't get much grip on a socket headed bolt

 

[Steptoe]

There's a fluid called "freeway" thats used in the aircraft industry to help remove siezed parts - it's the best of it's kind, but not sure if it's readily available -

Don't know why i posted this

 

[toucan]

the best way to remove a bolt:

turn it anti-clockwise.

 

[Steptoe]

the best way to remove a bolt:

turn it anti-clockwise.

what if it's a reverse thread - like the bolts on an 1100GS wing mirror

 

[(RIP) Jamie]

what if it's a reverse thread - like the bolts on an 1100GS wing mirror

Why would he put engine bars up there?

Righty tighty, Lefty loosey

 

[Den]

Always try to slightly tighten a stuck bolt before trying to slacken it.