Motolug Trailer
- Thread starter DJ123
- Start date
Pretty much got my trailer up to where i want it now.
Only thing left on the shopping list is a spare wheel, and it's pretty much ready to go on tour.
- Floor panels installed either side of the ramp - not the fancy hydro plywood flooring, as that was silly money for the small space i needed
- Indespension triplelock hitch - installed with locking nuts for the hitch + adapter
- D ring added - useful for locking the Bike to the trailer, and the trailer to something - if left unhitched.
- Ramps x 2 - 1 for the Bike, and 1 as a walk up. More stable to be on the same level as the Bike when un/loading
Only thing left on the shopping list is a spare wheel, and it's pretty much ready to go on tour.
A good test run this morning, getting back into the swing of tying the Bike down, and managing it up/down the ramps.
The towing rig;
Indespension triple lock hitch
Bike on trailer, Wooden board walks
Securing D-ring;
The towing rig;
Indespension triple lock hitch
Bike on trailer, Wooden board walks
Securing D-ring;
A few tweaks further on the trailer after some more test runs.
- The wooden floor needs tightening up, as it starts to rattle on more washboard type surfaces
- I swapped the ramp set up to one which is shorter, wider and has a better approach angle - a lot easier to load/unload the Bike. (new ramp)
- Added some rubber edge strips to the exposed metal corners - i will inevitably cut my hand otherwise!
- D-Rings now used to secure the ratchet straps to the trailer. 1 which takes the strain, and another positioned as redundant support should it come loose or fail.
- Hitch lock now acquired, which fits the hitch on the adapter. (Maypole MP9586)
I think that's pretty much it for the trailer modifications & tweaks. Now to book in a couple of long weekends away, to test the set up properly prior to the big trip in October.
- The wooden floor needs tightening up, as it starts to rattle on more washboard type surfaces
- I swapped the ramp set up to one which is shorter, wider and has a better approach angle - a lot easier to load/unload the Bike. (new ramp)
- Added some rubber edge strips to the exposed metal corners - i will inevitably cut my hand otherwise!
- D-Rings now used to secure the ratchet straps to the trailer. 1 which takes the strain, and another positioned as redundant support should it come loose or fail.
- Hitch lock now acquired, which fits the hitch on the adapter. (Maypole MP9586)
I think that's pretty much it for the trailer modifications & tweaks. Now to book in a couple of long weekends away, to test the set up properly prior to the big trip in October.
Are you still interested in selling this?
Are you still looking to sell this? Someone else was asking, so 2nd dibs possibly?
Sorry but its sold .....
Could you possibly add some photos of how you did it please? And what parts you used? Thanks
Brilliant, thanksIt’s buried in the shed at the mo, I’ll happily take pics when it warms up a tad
I did end up with a Motolug trailer in the end, and have started to adapt it - some upgrades, some wants.
I changed the lights to LED ones with quick connectors. So the main gooseneck/connector wiring stays on the main body (with the help of some cable ties). And you can still disconnect/remove the arms for assembly & Bike mounting. These are E marked trailer lights, so road legal & also very bright/noticeable.
I have also changed from r-clips to pins with an integrated clip. (Amazon link). Easier to put these on/take off - and no risk of losing the r-clip! The only r-clip pin is the central one for the main ramp body into the axel.
And finally, I changed the break off wire, to a more substantial one that goes over the tow bar.
I think future changes will possibly be a different hitch head with locking mechanism, and that's about it. I have a D-lock which fits through the tilting mechanism swing pin hole (removing the pin) - which can be used to lock the trailer to the hitch head. This should hopefully make it a secure Bike trailer when it is left locked/connected to the Car.
I changed the lights to LED ones with quick connectors. So the main gooseneck/connector wiring stays on the main body (with the help of some cable ties). And you can still disconnect/remove the arms for assembly & Bike mounting. These are E marked trailer lights, so road legal & also very bright/noticeable.
I have also changed from r-clips to pins with an integrated clip. (Amazon link). Easier to put these on/take off - and no risk of losing the r-clip! The only r-clip pin is the central one for the main ramp body into the axel.
And finally, I changed the break off wire, to a more substantial one that goes over the tow bar.
I think future changes will possibly be a different hitch head with locking mechanism, and that's about it. I have a D-lock which fits through the tilting mechanism swing pin hole (removing the pin) - which can be used to lock the trailer to the hitch head. This should hopefully make it a secure Bike trailer when it is left locked/connected to the Car.
"I have also changed from r-clips to pins with an integrated clip. (Amazon link). Easier to put these on/take off - and no risk of losing the r-clip! The only r-clip pin is the central one for the main ramp body into the axle"
Excellent idea, I hate R clips with a passion!
Excellent idea, I hate R clips with a passion!
Hi, I've just got a Motolug trailer and wanted to ask if you have a link to the LED lights you have fitted, and also which D lock you are using on the tilt mechanism pin? Thanks!
Hi,
The below table are the parts i bought from https://www.towingandtrailers.com/, for the lights.
The only thing i switched out on the below was the lamp to lamp connector to a 1M cable (price was not too dissimilar)
LED Autolamps 100BARE 3 Function Trailer Light – G2 Plug In x 2.
£52.58
LED Autolamps 5C81 1m Trailer Connector G2 Cable with 7 pin Plug x 1
£17.36
LED Autolamps 5C370C 3.7m Lamp to Gooseneck Cable 5 pin - 2x4 pin for G2 lights x 1
£16.28
LED Autolamps 4C170C 1.7m Lamp to Lamp G2 Link Cable x 1 - i changed this to the 1M version.
£8.84
Any D-lock will fit securely if it has a 16mm shackle diameter (maximum that fits the holes), I went for the Oxford Magnum u-lock 170 x 315. As this means it fits through either hole for the pin. Either the tilting control, or the hinge which goes through the wheel chock.
Link to lock at SportsBikeShop
The below table are the parts i bought from https://www.towingandtrailers.com/, for the lights.
The only thing i switched out on the below was the lamp to lamp connector to a 1M cable (price was not too dissimilar)
LED Autolamps 100BARE 3 Function Trailer Light – G2 Plug In x 2.
£52.58
LED Autolamps 5C81 1m Trailer Connector G2 Cable with 7 pin Plug x 1
£17.36
LED Autolamps 5C370C 3.7m Lamp to Gooseneck Cable 5 pin - 2x4 pin for G2 lights x 1
£16.28
LED Autolamps 4C170C 1.7m Lamp to Lamp G2 Link Cable x 1 - i changed this to the 1M version.
£8.84
Any D-lock will fit securely if it has a 16mm shackle diameter (maximum that fits the holes), I went for the Oxford Magnum u-lock 170 x 315. As this means it fits through either hole for the pin. Either the tilting control, or the hinge which goes through the wheel chock.
Link to lock at SportsBikeShop
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