Need help to remove a car wheel nut that has shattered
- Thread starter Lord Snooty
- Start date
Its Obvious innit!
I can't believe that the collective wisdom on here has not sorted this one yet.
Simply take the nut off the other end of the wheelstud (it holds the opposite wheel on you know) and with a hammer and drift simply push it out from the good side.
Just be careful to get the right one, you can check this by getting a friend to place a plastic cup against the stud you think is the other end and with your plastic cup held against the damaged one you should be able to hear your friend talk - the stud acts like a bit of string.
I can't believe that the collective wisdom on here has not sorted this one yet.
Simply take the nut off the other end of the wheelstud (it holds the opposite wheel on you know) and with a hammer and drift simply push it out from the good side.
Just be careful to get the right one, you can check this by getting a friend to place a plastic cup against the stud you think is the other end and with your plastic cup held against the damaged one you should be able to hear your friend talk - the stud acts like a bit of string.
Just drill it and batter the shit out of it with swearing worked on mine
Mike, I have read the posts again and can't see any mention of whether a front or rear wheel?
Can the stud itself be attacked from the rear face of the hub?
Most studs are pressed into the hub as an interference fit with a splined section to grip into the hub itself and a mushroomed head on the rear face to hold it in place when the nut on the other side is tightened.
If it is this type of stud you might be able to grind off the mushroomed head on the rear of the wheel hub with an angle grinder and then drift it out ?? A new stud and nut are a lot cheaper than a new alloy wheel. To fit a new stud, just use an old socket as a temporary spacer between hub and nut and draw it onto the splines (like a dowel extractor).
Can the stud itself be attacked from the rear face of the hub?
Most studs are pressed into the hub as an interference fit with a splined section to grip into the hub itself and a mushroomed head on the rear face to hold it in place when the nut on the other side is tightened.
If it is this type of stud you might be able to grind off the mushroomed head on the rear of the wheel hub with an angle grinder and then drift it out ?? A new stud and nut are a lot cheaper than a new alloy wheel. To fit a new stud, just use an old socket as a temporary spacer between hub and nut and draw it onto the splines (like a dowel extractor).
I would talk to your Volvo dealer, and get them to fix it, ok you broke a bit but it was them who stuck an air wrench on and buggered it properly. I would have thought that any good mechanic would know not to put an air tool onto an anti-theft wheel nut.
Just use a good quality drill and drill the stud out. Put a large pilot drill down it first to help keep it centred.
Might be sorted tomorrow
I was at a social function last night and got talking to a bloke I know who owns a garage and he assures me he can get it off cos he has the right tool so I am taking it around tomorrow after lunch. Watch this space
I was at a social function last night and got talking to a bloke I know who owns a garage and he assures me he can get it off cos he has the right tool so I am taking it around tomorrow after lunch. Watch this space
It's feckin' sorted....but at a price!
Well I took it to my garage owning buddy - he knew he would have to put it up on the ramp but he said he would charge me just £25 for the job regardless of how long it took.
Because there was so little of the nut left and the difficulty of getting to it he could not get any tools onto it so they had to resort to destroying the stud and a liberal application of a special tool - I think it's called a hammer (a Brummie screwdriver). Anyhoo they got the wheel off with only a few marks on the wheel around the stud locating hole but the bad news is that the ABS ring was damaged in the process. Also when removing the hub to replace the old stud they found that the brake caliper hangers were siezed solid and the brake was not working properly - a definite MOT failure. So the ABS ring and caliper carrier were replaced - the final bill was £150 
but to be fair to my mate he only charged my £28 for labour, the rest was parts and VAT.
A sort of bitter sweet ending
THE END
Well I took it to my garage owning buddy - he knew he would have to put it up on the ramp but he said he would charge me just £25 for the job regardless of how long it took.
Because there was so little of the nut left and the difficulty of getting to it he could not get any tools onto it so they had to resort to destroying the stud and a liberal application of a special tool - I think it's called a hammer (a Brummie screwdriver
). Anyhoo they got the wheel off with only a few marks on the wheel around the stud locating hole but the bad news is that the ABS ring was damaged in the process. Also when removing the hub to replace the old stud they found that the brake caliper hangers were siezed solid and the brake was not working properly - a definite MOT failure. So the ABS ring and caliper carrier were replaced - the final bill was £150 but to be fair to my mate he only charged my £28 for labour, the rest was parts and VAT.A sort of bitter sweet ending
THE END
Supertech
Guest
Guy at work had a similar problem, but with a security bolt that sheared.
He brought it round to my gaff and I used a stick welder to weld a socket on the broken stub. Worked, no damage to the wheel. Alought I did use up a CO2 fire extinuisher cooling the ally down.
He brought it round to my gaff and I used a stick welder to weld a socket on the broken stub. Worked, no damage to the wheel. Alought I did use up a CO2 fire extinuisher cooling the ally down.
BuGsBuNnY
Guest
Christ on a bike, you guys like your hammers!
The easiest way by far, no mess, is this:
1)Drill a small hole in the middle of the naughty bolt.
2)Use stud extractors from machine mart.
3)Done.
**Don't ask how I know...**
The easiest way by far, no mess, is this:
1)Drill a small hole in the middle of the naughty bolt.
2)Use stud extractors from machine mart.
3)Done.
**Don't ask how I know...**
freeloader
Registered user
Well, the OP did say it was a broken nut on a wheel stud.
So no naughty bolt involved, therefore a stud extractor wouldn't have been much use...
