New Fat Ass design

New in..

I may have come up with a way.. just in planning stage..

I figure that, the batteries are 3v units. So need to drop 12v to 3v, coming off the tail light wires.

The next bit is to circumvent the 3 step switch.. which i think can be done. I am going to have a look at one and see..
if i crack it, will post the info onto the boards.. it has to be possible.. it just has to.. :P
 
just need the fuses..

Bikergary,

I have discovered that the units i have.. when you first put a voltage in, they go straight to constand on mode..
ie when you first put batteries in..

So all you need to do is solder on two cables into the battry mounts.. if the 12v can be dropped to 3v, by a fuse of the correct size. Then that it, they will come on when the bike ignition switch is on.. hmmm may have just spoted a problem..

The breaklight has two voltages presumedly.. a high and low, for driving light and breaklight..? Hmm not sure how this will work in practise. Fudge.. was hoping it was going to be easy.. oh well..

Anyone know
1. Does the breaklight wiring change voltages when breaks are on?

2. What voltages are they and how do we get around it..?

rocks..
 
The voltage stays the same. The lamp has two fillaments inside it. One high resistance one which glows brighter for the brake and one lower for the rear light.:)
 
Two filaments..

Cheers whatton.. so two filaments means two wires..
which is obvious as the litebuddys work.. SOOOOO

That means.. i need to track down which ones are the low voltage ones and what fuses i need inline?..

Will also need some silicon seal to seal the cable hole in the LED unit.. to waterproof..
 


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