Noisy CLUTCH

[mcjaeger]

I recently purchased a R1100GS. Having once owned an R65 and then purchasing a K100 and numerous Yamaha enduro machines (TT 600 and a few from the IT range), this is perhaps the best bike I have owned.

I picked the bike up yesterday in Newcastle and rode to my home 80 miles west of Brisbane (Australia), approx 500 miles in the day.

The bike is an 96 model and has just reached 40 000 KM (yesterday) or around 25 000 miles. It has been log book serviced it's entire life. During the trip , the bike developed a noise in the clutch, a throwout bearing noise that dissapears when the clutch is loaded (pulled in). The noise is a dry bearing noise that has me a little worried.

Is this a common GS Fault? I have done a lot of research and found evidience of similar problems on early GS's.

If anyone can help with some advice or experiences I would love to hear from you.

I adjusted the clutch and the problem did not improve or worsen.

 

[Hedgehog]

Hmmmm

Not an expert by any means, but you've had no other replies so here goes......
The dry clutch on the 1100/1150 is a notoriously noisy beast. Without hearing yours it's difficult to know whether you have a specific problem. Best idea is go along to your nearest dealer (just a few days ride for you I'm sure) & get them to start 1 up (or go for a test ride) & compare.
Totally aside .... the 1100 did have a problem with oil getting past a seal into the clutch causing slip, but this should have been dealt with a while ago under warranty.

Good luck......

 

[mcjaeger]

Thanks Tim,

I will pull off the starter cover and have a look. I have read that I should get an indication from that.

Thanks Mate

 

[Mick Fagan]

Hi, I think that your problem is resonance. By that I mean vibration in the drive train emanating from the crankshaft going down through the input shaft of the gearbox where the rattle is amplified by the half empty gearbox housing!

The best and most simple solution, is to balance the throttle bodies extremely accurately, especially at idle. Unless you have mercury or vacuum gauges or even better a Twinmax Carby Balancer, don't attempt this by ear. Ive tried it and it doesn't work.

By balancing the throttle bodies, you will have effectively stopped most of the slap of the various shafts in the drivetrain. The 1100 uses a similiar setup of all twins since WW2 and that is that the clutch pushrod shaft runs through the input shaft of the gearbox this also rattles and the big difference really is usually the amount of difference between the cylinder settings at idle on the throttle bodies.

If you pull the clutch in it stops because the pushrod is under pressure and isn't rattling about.

Mick.