OHLINS - STANDARD SPECIFICATION

[Grizzly]

I know the subject of Ohlins crops up on a regular basis, but at the moment I am about to order a set and my worry is should I buy a standard set as supplied by the factory and extensively tested by them to be the best set-up for the GS or should I listen to the various voices on these forums recommending spring up-rates etc.. The GS is a supple, long-travel suspension, B-road machine and it's hard to believe that Ohlins factory guys don't know what's needed?. Are these spring changes really neccessary or are some people sacrificing B-road suppleness for some sort of sports bike stiffness - I'm not trying to be critical but just concerned that I make the right choice -- It would be good to get some feedback from GS-ers who are using "standard" Ohlins as well as those who've up-rated them. Just for info, I use the bike solo, 2-up and with luggage. Cheers.........Grizzly

 

[Panzer Patrol]

Not wishing to sound like a smart arse but, try them straight out of the box, its the only way. You may find they suit your riding style perfectly. If they dont, then I am sure the guys who have experience of them can point you in the right direction.

Have fun

 

[GSAde]

Hi Grizzly

I have a pair of Ohlins on my 1150GS, standard springing is fine for me, bit of a weazel at 11.5 stones though, but I also use bike two up & with luggage.

Find I need no preload at all on back for solo with rebound four clicks softer than factory settings & all preload wound off front with two clicks rebound less than standard. For pillion or luggage (I haven't done pillion & luggage at same time) 10 half turns of preload on the back seems to be ok, but never ride as quick with pillion anyway. Otherwise would scare the missus t'death!

Oh & thanks for the comments on Anakees - much less paranoia now!

Cheers

Ade

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Ohlins spec for springs

Depends on your riding style,weight,pillion and luggage etc.
Rode mine straight out the box with a 140nM spring on rear for 30,000 miles,until it sprung a leak.
Bike was ok solo,but with luggage and/or pillion, it would bottom out or wallow mid bend.
You just get used to it and ride round it.
However when it was rebuilt the preload mechanism had had some serious probs and had signs of bottoming out. Spring rate was for a 13-14 stone rider and I'm 18+ stone,so I was recommended to go up in spring rate,which I did to 160nM spring.
Front is stock out of the box.
However the suspension has been professionally set and 'dialled in'.
The result is that the bike is taughter,more stable and corners better without wallow,on the new set up.
Preload alters the sag on a ratio of 3:1 ie 3 turns = 1mm of sag reduction

 

[Deadskin]

Silly twat

I hope i'm not the only one who thought the black plastic things
on the bottom of my shocks were for decoration
A big thanks to Ade for showing me they actually do something
If you turn them they actually click .


Mark

 

[Timolgra]

Re: Ohlins spec for springs

I'm 18+ stone,

+ what Johnny?
Tim

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Re: Re: Ohlins spec for springs

+ what Johnny?
Tim

Just a couple of pounds,on a bad day Tim

 

[simon thomas]

Grizzly,

Not much i can add to the wisdom above but...

Unless you intend to do some serious off-Road stuff or massive milage, loaded up with big tanks etc, then the standard springs should be fine.

My Ohlins (fitted to my R1100GS) were originallly on as stock and were bloody fantastic, improving what is already a great bike. I'm now running with diffent springs; two grades higher (than stock) on the back and the one grade higher for the front, but this is only because the bike is set up for a RTW with panniers a 42 litre fuel tank, luggage,etc and me (16 stone).

I'd go with the advice from Panzer Patrol and go with stock, if You really want to change later it's not a big deal and the dent in your pocket shouldn't be to big.

Hope that helps
Ride safe
Simon T
http://www.2ridetheworld.com