oil pressure light

[hovis]

Hi ,all
I have a problem and need help. my 650gs oil pressure light came on this morning on way to work ,I checked the oil level and its fine if a little raised, I took off the oil filler cap started it up and oil didnt seem to be circulating then a gurgling noise and it pumped oil out of tank , switched it off and tried again all settled down as normal oil light has gone out. has anyone got any idea what the problem might be
Thanks Hovis

 

[Mouse]

It's not uncommon for the oil pressure sensor to fail. I'd replace it (10 minute job, under 10 quid for the part) and then keep an eye on it.

 

[Mingh]

Just a few ideas you probly already checked:
Did you check the oil level properly? (needs to be done with oil on operation temp -not cold, bike should be level...)
Is the oil pump functioning properly?

When it gurgled and spat out oil from the tank, I assume the engine was running. So the oil level may have been a bit high BUT: this may lead you to falsely believe the problem is solved. With the filler cap off, the oil cannot build any pressure....

I'm sure you're fully aware of it, but theres tons of usefull info about the quirky oil levels and filling on www.F650.com.

 

[Mouse]

With the filler cap off, the oil cannot build any pressure....

I can't see how that can be correct. The oil feed pump draws oil out of the tank into the lubrication circuit, and it ends up in the sump. From there the other oil pump returns it to the tank. How could this be affected by the absence of the filler cap?

I think it's much more likely that the sensor or wiring is faulty. But as Mingh says you should ensure the level in the oil tank is correct as well.

 

[Andy80F]

The sensor is certainly known to go and the part is £12 I think. Getting to it is fiddly but not difficult as such.

Andy

 

[talltony]

My pressure switch failed the first time I took my Dakar out - with 500mls. on the clock! As Andy80f says it's a known problem,certainly the first thing to check/replace.
Tony

 

[ROKKET71]

...think there has been a batch of faulty switches going around.I heard of a fella having SEVEN repaced under warranty!

 

[hovis]

Hi lads
Thanks for the help you pointed me in the right direction , also spoke to motorrad central at lunch time and they said the same . What I would like to know is, if it is a known problem why do I have to wait a week for a switch to come from Germany ?
Thanks again Hovis

 

[Onepot]

My Dakar did the same, and being a 'minge bag' I opened the switch - cleaned and silicone greased the contacts, refitted, and it's been fine for two years since.

 

[Pingo]

It's probably the switch, I've had 2 go so far. the second one left a trail of smoke for about fifty miles up the M6 before i noticed.
But, just to confuse matters, I also discovered that the wiring for the sensor had worn through behind the shock adjuster and was shorting out causing the light to come on, particularly in the wet.

 

[Mouse]

If you know the details of the switch you don't have to buy BMW.

The things you need to know are:

Thread size (obviously)
Activation pressure (Probably stamped on the side)
Does the switch close or open on activation? (You can test this with a multimeter)

If you know these three things, just pop into any decent motor factors and pick a switch that matches from their catalogue. Probaby half the price of the BMW item and you don't have to wait 7 days

 

[Mingh]

I can't see how that can be correct. The oil feed pump draws oil out of the tank into the lubrication circuit, and it ends up in the sump. From there the other oil pump returns it to the tank. How could this be affected by the absence of the filler cap?

I think it's much more likely that the sensor or wiring is faulty. But as Mingh says you should ensure the level in the oil tank is correct as well.

you must right. On operation temp, the oil level should be in the looking glas. So there is air above it....