Optimate.... please mate?

[Freakboi]

Hey peeps, browsing through here as I'm considering a 12GS. I'm concerned you guys say not to use the accessory socket when charging from an optimate. I do that all the time with my 650GS and R1150R. Even wired up a socket to my SV650 to charge likewise!! Can you clarify why this is bad... you have me concerned

 

[chasr]

Can you clarify why this is bad... you have me concerned

Don't worry. We say don't do it 'cos it doesn't work. On the 1200, the accessory socket 'shuts down' after 15 minutes. There's plenty of battery/optimate info on this site if you do a search.

best rgds

Oh, and for all the 'I've got an optimate and it works perfectly when wired straight to the terminals' chaps..............................we know, we know

 

[Freakboi]

cheers!! *wipes brow and sighs relief*

 

[GSmonkey]

Freakboi, you could wire up another "non-intelligent" socket to the 12GS and charge through that - if 'accessory socket charging' floats your boat (and your battery)

 

[Freakboi]

Ah, so it is the socket that's way to clever for itself, huh? lol

 

[Pukmeister]

Neil, have they tried changing the alternator? Sounds to me like a diode could have failed in the rectifier, allowing current draw through the alternators excitation circuit through the bikes ignition switch circuit. This would drain your battery and give poor charging performance at low revs due to partial half-wave rectification of the ac output from the alternator.

Most alternators are three-phase devices and have a pair of diodes on each phase to provide full-wave rectification before the DC output of each phase is joined to a common output terminal. One or more diodes failing could cause this, and if one fails it imparts extra strain on the remaining good diodes. Your alternator could well be on the way out.

 

[birdseye]

You may well take the line that you shouldnt have to do this, but put a digi volmeter across the battery terminals when you are running the engine. If your alternator is trying to charge, the voltage should rise initially to something above 14 v settling back after running for a while (take the bike for a ride rather than run the engine stationary) to something in the 13.4v region. If the voltage stays resolutely below 12.7 then the alternator isnt charging. If it does go up to 14v and then fall back, likelythe battery is duff or you have resistance in the battery or terminals that is causing current flow to be restricted.

Apparently, if you dont use the steering lock you can flatten the battery that way since it leaves the canbus live.

 

[chasr]

Apparently, if you dont use the steering lock you can flatten the battery that way since it leaves the canbus live.

Are you really sure about this?