pannier lock modification to remove key

[warmshed]

Hi, having bough an 1150 GSA, I want to modify the locks of the BMW system panniers so the key can be removed when unlocked. I had a K1200RS, saw reference to this mod and found it made the panniers more usable.. Ive searched the web, but cannot find a link to remind me how to do it.
Can someone direct me to a link or tell me how its done. I know it was only a few seconds with a file once the locks are removed, though I can remove the locks easy enough Ive forgotten what to file! Many thanks, Dave.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Pain in the proverbials' herself needing to have the key for the bike 'cos she's packing Perhaps you need a spare key.

Only joking. Interesting mod though.

 

[warmshed]

Yes and would be better if I could remember how to do it!

 

[Wrigsby1]

I'm sure it used to be on IBMWR oilhead section but its not letting me in at the mo. It allowed you to remove the key with the luggage unlocked.

PS I do ALL the packing to avoid "issues"...

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I got a locksmith from the golden pages. Sorted out something for me. Locksmiths are clannish.

Anyone got the linky?

 

[warmshed]

Bump bump

 

[Decster]

what's to stop you driving off with the pannier unlocked and it coming off down the road and you not noticing?

 

[warmshed]

Why should it come off or open?, does your car door if its not locked?

The pannier, once it is closed will stay put. I can lock it if I want to protect it from being stolen, However is is useful to leave it unlocked so you can open both of them without keep swapping the keys.
If you open the standard ones,I know you can remove the key if you turn the lock to "lock" position but this is how the "flag" gets broken when you try to close the pannier, so you have to leave the lids open until you swap the keys round again!

I used my K1200RS with modified panniers for 9 years without problems and found it much more convienient.

 

[Wrigsby1]

Warmshed, IBMWR is back up again....

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/baglockmod.shtml

Give it a look

 

[Wrigsby1]

Just done this mod on one of my panniers..... 1/2 hour and no change to "functionality"!

Piece o piss, remove barrel, have bit of paper do draw a barrel shape on, remove key carefully with fingers over lock blades, remove one at a time noting the little number on and it's position, then put one in at a time from key end. If it is forced out, file it down until it isn't (soft metal). Don't worry about the sprung side.

All that tosh about "put barrel in/out" 100 times isn't necessary. Just get it so the blades do not get forced out over all six (and they are all flush with key in!) and replace.

Very similar remove/replace for rekeying boxes and petrol caps. I'm sure it has been covered before but in dealers it's a constant thing and there are always spare blades about.

When I was instructing the examiners were always bitching about having to use the keys for their paperwork at every stop. Older K and R airhead boxes could be left unlocked. I am sure it is a regular courier thing for this mod to be worked.

 

[Poucher]

Wrigsby,

Any chance of a couple of pics of this mod, I'm a bit concerned about filing the ends off the wafers and the case not locking at all then

 

[Wrigsby1]

I'll do the other side and take some pics. I tested the lock and it not locks with any key but unlocks only with the correct one. All fun but even BM locks are only there for show if you have a real thief wanting to get in.

 

[Wrigsby1]

OK, Rock n Roll. It has similar pics to the rekeying technical page article but different descriptions. It's totally foolsafe and failproof

Not worked out how to space the pics and words, duh!

Pic 1: Remove lock with handy bit of wire thru small hole.

Pic 2: Remove lock...

Pic 3 Study lock barrel hand the loose sprung locking tab that you hit with the wire. DO NOT LOSE...

Pic 4: Slowly remove key noting the blades of lock moving top and bottom. They are sprung one side with the smallest springs in existence so don't be rough or they might fall out never to be found...

Pic 5: Safety handling position. Stops you losing blades while moving the lock around

New post needed

 

[Wrigsby1]

Aaand the rest...


Pic 1: Draw a pretty pic to remind yourself what number and where the blades go when you sneeze and they end up all over the shop.

Pic 2: See small numbers for the uninitiated.

Pic 3: IMPORTANT BIT File lock blades... Put one blade in at a time from the key end... insert key and slowly remove again. "Feel" for the lock blade being pushed out AGAINST the little spring. So the side to file is opposite to the spring side and there as 3 springs in each side fitted in alternate slots.

NOTE how much the lock blade is forced out, use the little teeth as reference. You need to file it so it stays flush with the barrel when the key is pushed past again. DO NOT worry about the sprung side sticking out.

Employ grips and "Trago Mills" Chinese files (optional... one for the SW members), never let me down yet! You ALWAYS file the side oppostie the spring. When you can remove key without this edge being FORCED out you are finished with that lock blade and move on to the next.

Pic 4: Re-insert key and note if lock blades appear and check by pushing with finger to make sure they are sprung side and therefore don't matter.

Pic 5: Once all happy, look down lock barrel for the keyway for the locking blade which has a small ramp at the side. Insert barrel and turn towards the ramp. Push home and remove key to make sure. (Pic next post)

Next...

 

[Wrigsby1]

One last one....

Pic 1: Barrel being re-inserted (ooeer)...

Pic 2: Turn lock, remove key with lock in "open" position. If this doesn't work you have a high spot on a lock blade due to underfiling, tut, tut...

The lock will lock with any key (by-product) but will only unlock with the correct key or nasty screwdriver.

SAFETY NOTE: Don't even think about this if you are in United State or other nanny state litigous countries and/or a HSE Exec. Don't be a twat and ride off with the handle up or you will need the road cone and the corner of the classroom, duh!

 

[warmshed]

Wrigsby1, thanks for taking the trouble to post the pictures, I remember doing it now. The pictures make it seem like a long job but I know it only took me 2 or 3 mins max to do each side. I agree that you must watch out for the springs.

The "any key will lock" feature is the same as all Ford keys including Modeos, Transits, Fiestas KAs etc up to the latest flat key types used in the last couple of years and that never caused any problems.

 

[Wrigsby1]

My dad once locked the keys in his Capri and I opened the boot with the wooden fork from our chips. I was about 10 at the time and i can't remember whether my dad was full of admiration or worry

PS took me about 25 mins, 15 to do the pics

 

[cartejo5]

Good write up, I've just done this today took longer than a few minutes though.

Didn't help that I filed the wrong side of the wafers before realising it should have been the other end but as a fortunate byproduct my ignition key now locks and unlocks the panniers whereas the panniers previously had a separate key.

 

[Steptoe]

Good write up, I've just done this today took longer than a few minutes though.

Didn't help that I filed the wrong side of the wafers before realising it should have been the other end but as a fortunate byproduct my ignition key now locks and unlocks the panniers whereas the panniers previously had a separate key.

You'll now find almost any key will now unlock your panniers

 

[cartejo5]

You'll now find almost any key will now unlock your panniers

Aye, I guessed that might be the case however someone with a big screwdriver and the intent could open them anyways. I'm hoping most BM owners might be more honest and let's face it how would they know?