parabatix
Guest
No 'spliff in the riff' for you then

Surviving the Riff
Thursday morning, got bup and the conversation went .....
where now, I dont know look at the map. There is a great track on the med coast but its over the Riff mountains. We have been told by more than one person that you cant do this route it is dangerous. We paused for a while and thought. Are we GSers or not and what does the A stand for in GSA ?
So a few hours later we left the heat of the desert and headded for the Riff. Pete had the map and we were doing great. Snow on the atlas slowed us a bit and by 5pm we were looking for a hotel just south of the Riff, having passed the comparative comfort of Fez with its warm bars and first class hotels. Headding north hoping for a hotel we got to XXXXXX and couldnt find a hotel. Asking a friendly police man Pete said in his best French Hotel? the reply was harsh " are you English? there are no hotels here for you!!" F**K no not here its getting dark and were not sure of the route. Heading more north we took a road we thought was ok. Pitch dark and lost we were flagged down by the Police. Turns out we are not on the road we thought but right in the middle of the Hashish barrons lair in the Riff, Now we were worried! Too manly to let each other know we just turned round and headded back into the darkness to the town where there are no hotels for Brits! Passed the only one we could see and down hill, Possibly having to get to Fez which was another 50 miles in the dark on narrow bendy roads. Slowed down by the Rose hotel and as expected a man appeared (like the man from Mr Ben) he assured us his hotel was good and safe. 300dhs for the night seemed ok and he promised us he would look after the bikes. Room was ok and leaning out of the window at a stretch we could see the bikes, which given the addition of half a desk top we had managed to get them up an 18 inch kerb to the door to the reception. Laying in bed in my bag trying to relax, thoughts of being abducted in the night, pete couldnt rest. Keeping his eye on the bikes and listening to all the noise outside. We went to the adjoining cafe and had the only food they could offer. Stale bread and laughing cow cheese, yummy! I fell asleep and was aware at times of Pete leaning out of the window. 5am and Pete saw a "monkey" sitting on his bike. Now not one to shy away from confrontation Pete went down, Chucked him off and woke the security to tell them. Then daylight came, We were apprehensive as we knew it was either back to Fez and the safe way or North. Conversation went " what do you think" " its up to you" well it ended up heading north as you could have guessed.
The mood with us was fixed. The mood of the locals was most definately on the Hashish they wanted to sell. Even Peter form Bikers Home had heard stories of dealers running tourists off the road to sell to them. And of course we had read Tims report too. Heading up to the bad area we were resolute and determined to get through. Pete even used the phrase " its early we will be up before the dealers"! God whats he thinking, these are dealers with knives and guns, not the local types that sign on on a Tuesday and and dont get up till their Mum makes breakfast. Thinking we were doing well we hit a junction, F**K its still 120 miles to the relative safety of the low lands. We had to keep going. We have plenty of fuel and were riding as fast as our experience and scrubbed out tyres would let us. The towns were few and far between but hostile, friendly whistles were replaced by shouts and offers of buying the local weed. Dirty dusty places where you were sure Police wouldnt come if we needed them, S**T we werte deep in it now. Counting the miles and working out how far left was keeping us going, some quick footage on the cameras then off again. We were scared but not admitting it. Even Mr confident Pete was quiet. Looking at every car that passed, is this the one that confronts us? Mercs, Golf GTI what was it going to be. We were sure we would have to confornt one and were both forming plans in our heads on how to beat them. Eventually dropping lower to a safe area we were calmer. Shouts turned to boys willing us to Wheelie and making revving gestures. The mood lightened. Stopped at last for breakfast at almost mid day and time to look over the bikes and adjust the faulty clutch on Petes bike.
Heading more north eventually to the port. Peace at last and easily through the border.
Sitting writing this in a bar in southern Spain with great beer, good toiets and conversing with two great GS owners in Spain.
Were we right to do the Riff? possibly not. Were we in danger, Definately yes. was it fun, totally.
We ride GSs and there is a letter after that A yes adventure. Our bikes have earned the right to wear the "A" Has yours!!!
Gary
Wow Gary was scared. Me I wanted to fight
Glad to be out of Morocco again. I was there two years ago and left as soon as I could. This time its the same, hastell from everone and everyone wants what you have. We had loads of fun riding the piste and off road all over, but the hastell is to much. (Hastell spelt by Gary, Ive had to much to drink)
Looking forward to riding with friends in eastern europe much more than putting up with the monkeys here.
But wow what a great time I have had and thanks to Gary a great bloke to ride with.
Pete
PS for that he says I can have great sex tonight so I take it back
Grace xx
Enjoying following ya progress, green with envy wish I was there with ya? Maybe next time when I can walk lol!! Grace following ya 2! Enjoy it see ya soon,
Dave andGrace xx
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Oh the european trip is going to be fun, fun, fun....
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