Mouse
Registered user
This is a repost of information previously posted by alecmuffet concerning how to pick up a large bike like the GS. The reason I've copied this into a new thread is so I can easily link to it in from the FAQ. Please keep responses on topic 
Here's Alec's original info with minor editing by me:
Here's Alec's original info with minor editing by me:
You know, I am probably going to get in trouble for saying this, but I don't think that's the way to pick up a GS at all.
The reason I say this is because I also subscribe to TBM (Trail Bike and Enduro Magazine) and I seem to remember that it was there I read about the BMW-authorised (?) way to pick up a GS, and I seem to remember the source being Si Pavey.
The method:
1) Approach the bike and adjust the handlebars so that they are on opposite-lock to the direction it fell down, in fact exactly opposite to the direction that the bars are sitting in the picture at http://www.pinkribbonrides.com/images/115-1572_IMG.jpg - the handlebar grip nearest the ground should be the one "furthest forward".
2) bend your knees like a weightlifter, keep a straight back, grab the handlebar-end that is nearest the ground (ie: the one splayed forwards, like a long lever onto the headstock) and lift it by straightening your knees, just like a weightlifter might.
3) The bike just hoicks straight up. Simple.
As I say, I read this a few years ago, I think it was in TBM, it works for me on the 12GS (twice) and the DRZ400 (3 times) and I have picked up a mate's 1150GS off a cobbled French street by the same manner. It's a doddle. I doubt it would work on sportsbikes or those with drop-handlebars, but then the principle is one of using a trailie's long bars for maximum leverage.
I will have to hold my hand up and say that I am six foot four but I don't think that's a factor. Height may even be a disadvantage. It's the leverage and technique that work.
But I will suggest that you probably don't want to try it if your knees or back are shagged.
