Power Sockets, Fuses, USB Adapters, Charging Multiple Devices on A Trip?

PhaedrusMC

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For those of you who have added multiple power sockets to your bikes, what's the way to go?

I understand that everything should have in-line fuses between the battery and the power socket. What rating should fuses be? Is that dependent on the devices connected, or is there a catch-all rating that works well? If you're using 1mAh USB power adapters, then should the fuses be 10amp?

Is the gauge of wire that comes with the better (branded) power sockets good enough, or should you be upgrading the wire? What gauge is best?

I expect a typical set-up would be: Bike's battery -> fuse -> cigarette lighter socket -> USB adapter -> USB cable -> device

I know you could simplify that a bit by using a one-unit USB power socket (these typically seem to be dual-USB), rather than the two-unit cigarette lighter/USB adapter set-up, but the result is effectively the same, and there's a little more flexibility in the two-unit set-up, no?

With those cigarette lighter type sockets, if you used a dual-type USB adapter, what would be the implications regarding the fuse? If you were running two devices from that dual USB adapter, and the fuse blew, you'd lose power to both devices, and it could be messy trying to determine which device caused the blow.

Would it be better to use one single-type USB adapter (1-1.2mAh or so) in each cigarette lighter socket, so that each powered device would have its own dedicated fuse? This could allow you to use the most appropriate fuse rating for each device (if that's the right way to do it?). I could very well not be understanding stuff? Is the fuse's rating related to the device being powered, or to the power socket?

Perhaps OTT, but I can't be alone in considering powering or charging multiple devices (not for day-to-day commuting or fun spins obviously, but surely not unreasonable for a camping-touring trip of a few weeks):

  • Bluetooth comms
  • Phone
  • Bike-mounted video camera(s)
  • Helmet-mounted camera
  • Stills camera
  • Rechargeable head torch
  • Rechargeable flashlight
  • Can those portable battery pack things be charged from a bike's 12v system?

I'm not suggesting powering/charging everything on that list at the same time, but I imagine there could be times while on a trip where you are running maybe three or four - couple of video cameras, phone, comms...

I know the alternator's ability to keep the battery charged while also doing all this is key in the equation, even more so if the bike is also powering hardwired-in stuff like a GPS unit and/or a few extra lights... I guess fitting a contraption to monitor the battery's level of charge would make sense (voltmeter?).


Thanks for any replies. :thumb2
 
Thanks guys - some great suggestions there. So obvious to use some sort of single power block for everything...

You'd think that would have occurred to me before (ahem... that's my effects pedal-board in the attached pic... :blast)

Some really good reading on the blurb for the Fuzeblock.

Off to do some more reading now...
 

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Can't read those links on my phone but I have loads powered up. Grips/sat nav/aux lights/fag,usb though only the grips are straight to the battery the rest are via a triple outlet thing I got from the states thats all fused and relayed up.
 
I imagine this stuff is probably reasonably common or standard in terms of additional stuff on a bike:

  • Spot lights
  • DRLs
  • Marker lights (front & rear)
  • Heated grips
  • Powered GPS cradle
I also imagine that as they're usually permanent fitments on the bike, they're typically powered by being hard-wired to the battery, presumably fused (in-line fuses, basic fuse block, Fuzeblock, PDM60, etc).


So in terms of also powering various removable accessories around the bike, is the power-block type of solution also the best? Most riders will have a stills camera, phone, comms, maybe an mp3 player, an air compressor...

A guy with aspirations to create a decent film of his trip will also use multiple video cameras and probably a portable battery (that's chargeable from the bike - like that suggested by Newboy) to power a laptop (or similar).

A guy traveling through cold countries will probably use heated clothing.

A guy doing a lot of camping might have a rechargeable torch and/or headtorch.

Should every additional accessory be fused independently?

Can Fuzeblocks or PDM60s (or similar) provide the the same function as independent fuses? Other than ensuring the alternator's abilities aren't exceeded, could you use more than one power block?


Thanks for bothering to read/respond. These all may seem like dumb queries. :thumb2

Mark
 
First off:
note buffoon status...
But I work in IT so love gadgets..

Spot lights
DRLs
Marker lights (front & rear)
Heated grips
Powered GPS cradle
I would power all from perm attachments depnding on make/model etc...

Same with 12v comms - hard wire it..

If it's BT comms or stills camera, phone, comms, maybe an mp3 player, they will all probably power from USB

So USB sockets and power brick them...
Reading the nippynorman links are a good start...

things like fuzeblocks are fused....

you will need to do some planning:
How much current can the fuzeblock FZ-1 handle?
This isn't as straight forward as you might think.
The FZ-1 has two separate current paths. One is for constant power and the other goes through the relay for switched power. Each circuit can handle up to 10A (120W). The total amperage used via the relay (switched power) should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage on the constant side should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage for the entire FZ-1 should not exceed 30A (360W).
Remember the constraints of the relay and each circuit. This allows most people to run a number of accessories. You need to be careful when running halogen lighting or heated gear. You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up. Anything that uses electricity will tell you how much power/current it consumes given in amps or watts.
To get watts from amps just multiple 12V * amps (V*I=P). To get amps from watts just divide watts by 12V (P/V=I). We have a calculator on our site if you need help with calculating power or amps.
 
There are some good solar chargers too out there....

Sent from my Lenovo K50-t5 using Tapatalk
 
First off:
note buffoon status...
But I work in IT so love gadgets..

Grand. I don't feel so bad then... :thumb

If it's BT comms or stills camera, phone, comms, maybe an mp3 player, they will all probably power from USB

The comms I have in mind is BT, so USB will probly work best there.



things like fuzeblocks are fused....

Sorry if I seem to be not understanding this point - is each of the 6 circuits on the Fuzeblock, PDM60 et al independent of the other circuits? If the device on circuit 1 goes tits-up, do the other 5 circuits remain operational? Or is it the block itself that trips/blows, leaving all 6 circuits dead?

So USB sockets and power brick them...
Reading the nippynorman links are a good start...

you will need to do some planning:
How much current can the fuzeblock FZ-1 handle?
This isn't as straight forward as you might think.
The FZ-1 has two separate current paths. One is for constant power and the other goes through the relay for switched power. Each circuit can handle up to 10A (120W). The total amperage used via the relay (switched power) should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage on the constant side should not exceed 30A (360W). The total amperage for the entire FZ-1 should not exceed 30A (360W).
Remember the constraints of the relay and each circuit. This allows most people to run a number of accessories. You need to be careful when running halogen lighting or heated gear. You can run these types of devices but you need to know the amount of current they use before hooking them up. Anything that uses electricity will tell you how much power/current it consumes given in amps or watts.
To get watts from amps just multiple 12V * amps (V*I=P). To get amps from watts just divide watts by 12V (P/V=I). We have a calculator on our site if you need help with calculating power or amps.

If the per-side (switched/constant) amperage is 30A/360w, shouldn't the total amperage should be 60A/720w? I'm all but clueless with leccy, but that seems odd? Is the split fixed at half/half? Or can the user set which circuits he wants switched or constant? I'll get a better look at the specs this evening.

The spotlights, DRLs & markers I have in mind are all LED. I might also look at LED options for headlight & tail light.

The only stuff permanently on and in use (in addition to the OE dipped beam) will be the DRLs & marker lights.

Even though there'd be power permanently available at the GPS cradle, spotlights & heated grips they won't necessarily all always be on, and probably never all be on at the same time.

Similarly, even though there'd be power permanently available at the USB sockets, they won't necessarily all always be in use.

This is all academic for me now, as I don't have the bike yet, but I enjoy and value getting as informed as I can well in advance.

Thanks for the replies folks. :thumb2
 


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