Problems with moving brake line to other side of the fork after riser install.

daesimps

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Hi,

I've just installed some Rox 2" risers on my 2012 GS (not GSA) and thought I'd done all the necessary research before starting. The general consensus was "just drop the fork, move the brake/clutch lines to the other side and route the throttle under, rather than over, the bars". So, thinking it was easy, that's what I did.

The throttle was easy, the clutch was easy but I'm stuffed if I can sort the brake line! With the line in the normal position it pulls tight on left hand full lock. However, once the line is moved to the other side of the fork the right hand turn becomes an issue as the brake line gets kinked and trapped. I tried unscrewing the retaining lug from where the flexible brake pipe meets the stiff brake pipe down by the headstock but that simply allowed the pipes (complete with retaining lug) to flop around in a rather worrying fashion. I was concerned that it would eventually loosen the pipes and allow leakage of brake fluid.

I know there's an obvious answer, but my brian is simply letting me down. So, what have you all done about moving the brake pipe?

I've got the risers at about 45 degrees as I need the back more than the up due to a medical condition with my shoulders/elbows.

Thanks in advance and sorry for being mechanically challenged!

Dae.
 
OK,

So after some thought and head scratching I think I've sorted it. I hope I've done so in the correct manner so am still interested in everyone else's remedy to this issue.

What I've done is use the Dremel to remove the little tab on the retaining bracket that you can see in the photo (it's to the right of the banjo). This has allowed me to change the direction that the banjo points. If you consider the direction that it was pointing (towards front of bike) the 12 o'clock position, it now points in the 5 o'clock position (towards the rider's right knee when sat aboard). This has allowed me to put the brake line on the outside of the fork without it getting a nasty "S" shaped kink when going full right hand lock. There's enough length left in the pipe so it doesn't go tight when using left hand full lock.

My only slight concern is that it very lightly touches the fairing to the right of the fork when going full right as the shape of the pipe changes when turning the bars. I hope this doesn't eventually wear out the paint.

I've added this information on the off-chance that it helps someone in the future. I could find loads of posts on various websites stating to move the brake line but nobody seemed to mention this bad kinking.


Dae.
 
I fitted risers to mine a long while ago, no matter how I routed the brake cable it was concerningly tight on lock, so a longer brake cable was order of the day for me.
 
I know what you mean. The moving of the banjo seems to have sorted out the tightness for now but I think I'll end up replacing the line. It's a shame really as it's something I'm not looking forward to doing. I'm just not convinced that the line won't eventually mark the paint where it touches (not rubs) the fairing on full right hand lock.

Any recommendations on a replacement line? I had a quick look around but must admit that it wasn't really in depth, especially since most of the results were American.


Cheers,
Dae.
 
my risers have lifted and also moved the bars closer to me, i have had no issues

i guess yours just increase height and maybe this is the issue
 
my risers have lifted and also moved the bars closer to me, i have had no issues

i guess yours just increase height and maybe this is the issue

They definitely don't only increase the height. As I said in my original post they are at 45 degrees so move the bars up and towards me. It's the distance from me, rather than the height, that's important.

They are the same 2" Rox Risers that many other people seem to be using without issue.
 
I take you've replaced the nut when you've unbolted the fork leg from the top yolk ??? Its a USE ONCE type !
 
I'm waiting for the dealer to get the nuts in and post them to me.

What worries me was that I phoned 2 dealers (Alan Jefferies and the other who's name escapes me) and both asked their technicians who said they never replace those nuts.

Barry Robson's in York checked with the technician and he said they always replaced them as that's what BMW specify.
 


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