Quest and Autocom once again

PeeBee

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Apologies for re-posting in this forum, but I am desperate to sort it out.
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I know it's probably been flogged to death, but my head hurts trying to get to grips with this problem.

I have a 1200GS, a Quest 1 and an Autocom Active 7. I've managed to sort out which RAM bracket I want to fit; it's the electrics bit that I'm struggling with.

As far as the Quest goes; which is better?:
1. Using a QPAC lead with BMW plug and fitting to standard auxiliary socket.
2. Using a QPAC lead with bare ends to the rear of the standard auxiliary socket. How hard is it to dismantle and reassemble the socket for soldering?
3. Fitting an additional auxiliary socket near the dash and then using a short QPAC lead with BMW plug.
4. Using a QPAC lead with bare ends connected directly to the battery.

When the bike power is turned off, will the Quest continue on battery power.

I've been told that the Autocom can be safely connected directly to the battery as the current draw is miniscule once the headsets are disconnected.
Is this good advice and if not what is the best place to wire to?
 
I have a Quest 1 and an Autocom. I use the RAM bracket with the bare wires. I brought the Autocom cable forward under the tank and initially I did what Mouse suggested which was to remove the blanking plate from the accessory socket and drill two 3mm holes in it opposite the actual sockets in the thing. I then pushed the cables through the holes and soldered a piece of resistor lead to the ends of the wires and then inserted the makeshift "pins" into the sockets and carefully refitted the cover. I then liberally sprayed the ouside with ACF50. I have now purchased a BMW Navigator II cable for a 1200 GS in order to acquire a suitable plug. I cut the cable off about six inches from the plug, and soldered and heatshrunk the Autocom/RAM power cables to this and then liberally covered the lot with self amalgamating tape. I have done this as I did not want to cut into the bike's wiring loom and modify it in any way. The Navigator II cable cost £40.00 but in the scheme of things that was fine as I purchased the Quest in Dixons clearance before Christmas for £80.00!!

So far this method of powering the Quest and Autocom works very well. I did get a little alternator noise when applying the brakes. Recently I managed to get hold of an Autocom isolated cable for a Garmin and I have now fitted that. It has completely cured the Alternator wine. If you wish I have some pictures of the installation and I could email them to you if you wanted.

Chris
 
I have a 1200GS, a Quest 1 and an Autocom Active 7. I've managed to sort out which RAM bracket I want to fit
>> if fitting over the clock then add a RAM-B-149 set up with a RAP-319.

1. Using a QPAC lead with BMW plug and fitting to standard auxiliary socket.
>>QPAC02-xx with QPAC02-etxn or QPAC04-xx

2. Using a QPAC lead with bare ends to the rear of the standard auxiliary socket. How hard is it to dismantle and reassemble the socket for soldering?
>> You can't.. in so much as the QPAC01-xx (like the Garmin kit) is hardwired so does not allow a de-install. QPAC02,03 04 allows this

3. Fitting an additional auxiliary socket near the dash and then using a short QPAC lead with BMW plug.
>> sure QPAC01-xx with you own plug invalidates the product warranty.

4. Using a QPAC lead with bare ends connected directly to the battery.When the bike power is turned off, will the Quest continue on battery power.
>> of course, with or without Quest fited there is a current drain across the load, and is typically 200mA.


RAM-man
 
Hi RAM man

Thanks for your reply. I'm going to use a GA15 cradle; 149ZA bracket and a RAP319 to fit to the dashboard rail to the top left of the clocks.

Is there a way to wire in the QPAC01 bare wires to the bikes power/accessory socket by the seat to make a permanent connection?;
or is it better to use QPAC03/04 to this socket?;
or fit a front power/accessory socket kit and use a QPAC02?
 


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