R1100GS ENgine Oil?

Stan Pinn

Guest
What oil do you all use?

I was going to use 0W30 but i have 15w40 in the shed, any ideas which is best?
I think BMW recomend 15W40 but i 0W30 free at work.....

Stan
 
FFS Don't start this lot off on "WHAT OIL":blast:blast
It causes more :thedummy and :handbag than anything else, including "what tyres" and "are 1200's reliable" :augie

Me Myself being an old sage with my thesis [many years ago ] done on oils.
Would recommend a good quality 20/50 mineral oil, but NOT Duckhams shit..
I use Castrol 20/50 heritage... [the old XL]


Now just watch the "Experts" come rolling in with their half brained ideas :rolleyes::rolleyes:

PS. I have only airheads, but Oily owners who use 20/50 notice the engine is smoother and slightly less rattly overall.
Well it is a Tractor engine :D
 
What oil do you all use?

I was going to use 0W30 but i have 15w40 in the shed, any ideas which is best?
I think BMW recomend 15W40 but i 0W30 free at work.....

Stan

15W40 (SJ) for me... they recommend an oil spec for a reason... if you want to ignore that for the sake of saving a few quid every year thats your choice.

btw the oil I use is an unbranded mineral. but is the correct spec and a bargain at £8.49 for a 5L tub. means I can change the oil every 3K and still save.:thumb
 
btw the oil I use is an unbranded mineral. but is the correct spec and a bargain at £8.49 for a 5L tub. means I can change the oil every 3K and still save.:thumb[/QUOTE]

Your using *unbranded* oil and your having a dig at me for saving a few quid! What ever i use it will be the best i can afford. The viscosity rating is only a temperature range after all. I have access to BMW Longlife oil.
 
btw the oil I use is an unbranded mineral. but is the correct spec and a bargain at £8.49 for a 5L tub. means I can change the oil every 3K and still save.:thumb

Your using *unbranded* oil and your having a dig at me for saving a few quid! What ever i use it will be the best i can afford. The viscosity rating is only a temperature range after all. I have access to BMW Longlife oil.[/QUOTE]

OK Stan.
You obviously know best :blast
When your valve heads break off, can I be the first to laugh at you !!??

Kindly disregard my previous posting :thumb2






















:hide:hide feckin' newbies :mad::blast
 
what difference does the name on the bottle make if it's still the correct spec?

As prof rightly says... it is a tractor.
 
Just done a service on mine, Motorworks recomended 20/50 for summer use in my 1150GSA. Seems to have taken a few of the noises away, except on start up & idle where it still clanks a bit. Although this may be something else rattling with the vibration on idle. As for changing the oil & getting the level right................FFS how is it so hard to get it right?? Rode bike, got it warm, pulled sump plug & let it drain on the centre stand for about 3 hours. Fitted new oil filter & filled oil, got it spot on half way up the sight glass & then took it for a ride around the block & it was still perfect. Rode to work & checked there & the oil was over the top of the sight glass. Drained a little off when I got home. Then oil was too low & not on sight glass........Repeat process for another day & finally I have got it to sit 3/4 up the glass warm or cold.:handbag

Sorry for the hijack but is there a simple way to do the change?
 
Just done a service on mine, Motorworks recomended 20/50 for summer use in my 1150GSA. Seems to have taken a few of the noises away, except on start up & idle where it still clanks a bit. Although this may be something else rattling with the vibration on idle. As for changing the oil & getting the level right................FFS how is it so hard to get it right?? Rode bike, got it warm, pulled sump plug & let it drain on the centre stand for about 3 hours. Fitted new oil filter & filled oil, got it spot on half way up the sight glass & then took it for a ride around the block & it was still perfect. Rode to work & checked there & the oil was over the top of the sight glass. Drained a little off when I got home. Then oil was too low & not on sight glass........Repeat process for another day & finally I have got it to sit 3/4 up the glass warm or cold.:handbag

Sorry for the hijack but is there a simple way to do the change?


yes... read what Tsiklonaut has to say.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1412464&postcount=6
 
oi proff whats wrong with duckhams? i have used it for forty odd years:rob in cars and bikes without any problems.
see what you bleedin started now stan:augie
p.s. aint half a nice tractor though
 
Duckhams

Part of BP any way probably just a different colour thata all , biked seem to keep,going what ever you put in them, lets face it we ain't talking Moto gp
hi revving state of the art, we are talking tractors as the Fuhrer said in his video (how did he find time to record that when he was trying to save the Third Reich?) not even a proper tractor!.
dave ( Abba Fan & tractor rider) GS.
 
Duckhams was sold through Ford dealers, branded as FoMoCo oil and single handedly caused BLACK DEATH in Thousands of Ford CVH engines [XR3 and Escort mk 3/4/5] Bloody stuff came out last in roller test when I was in college as well.
Roller test involve ballbearing with a cap with bar attached upon which you hang weights whilst ballbearing is spun at 100,000 rpm.
you put 1cc of oil in reservoir and apply weight :)
Castrol R =50 lb on bar = bent bar and no seizing :eek:
Castrol XL and Esso 20/50 = 28 lb on bar before screeching.:thumb2
Duckhams = 12 lb on bar = seizing and an horrible stink :(
Ages ago I posted a pic of the test machine but I can't find it at the moment :(

Opie oils carry a very good range of suitable oils :thumb2
 
I got home from work and dug out my service book

20W50 rated for -10 to 80 +C
15W40 rated for -15 to 80 C
10W40 rated for -20 to 70 C

These are Air Temperature, so i guess 0W30 is not a good idea:(

I have aways used Magnetec in my cars, I rebuilt my Vauxhall Novas engine a few years ago after 100K miles including lots of track days. It was still in good condition after 9 years of boy racer stuff. You can't beat a good quality synthetic oil for a modern engine. I used to 20W50 mineral in my air cooled VW's, they only did 4000 RPM.

I guess its a case of "use what you trust".

Stan


:wave
 
Part of BP any way probably just a different colour thata all , biked seem to keep,going what ever you put in them, lets face it we ain't talking Moto gp
hi revving state of the art, we are talking tractors as the Fuhrer said in his video (how did he find time to record that when he was trying to save the Third Reich?) not even a proper tractor!.
dave ( Abba Fan & tractor rider) GS.


Castrols oart of BP too !!!! :rob :beer:
 
err... but thats a 'motorcycle oil' - complete overkill for tractors... but if you like it thats fine.


Not just overkill, but it contains modifiers for a wet clutch and integral gearbox, for motorcycles. Which the GS hasn't got. :D
 
Not just overkill, but it contains modifiers for a wet clutch and integral gearbox, for motorcycles. Which the GS hasn't got. :D

uh huh... I originally typed 'Nonsensical Overkill' but thought that just a tad harsh... so changed it.

(shoulda left it be)


personally - I think anyone who uses 'motorcycle engine oil' in these bikes is insane. :hide
 


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