R1150gs time clock wired via ignition, anyone reversed this

stuart kerr

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My clock has been wired to the ignition switch (i think), by a previous owner. The result is that the clock resets to 00.00, every time the ignition is switched on.

I suspect this was done to prevent battery drain, if the bike was left standing, without an optimiser perhaps.

I wish to revert back to standard so the clock works as it should, just wondered if anyone else has done the same?

Thanks Stuart


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Clock has a positive permanent feed I had an RT with this fault

Turned out it was a broken wire in the loom I piggybacked a wire across to clock from the power socket on the left side of the "dash" its still fine 3 years later

So if its not a fuse have a look for 12 volts on the solid red wire at the RID
 
Check the fuses. It's standby power is on the socket fuse, but runs when the ignition is on from the feed to the console. It likely hasn't been hacked about.
 
Is your battery ok? I know the clock sometimes resets to 00:00 if the battery is on the way out. :nenau
 
Ive checked the fuse, its not that. The battery is fine. Its been doing this for 4 years since ive had it, its just a slight annoyance.

I'll have a look at the wiring when i can, it may be worth leaving it alone


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Stuart - I checked your fuses etc when your bike was in last week when I noticed the clock turned off when ignition off - you have one of the bikes who's clock runs off fuse 5, the motronic fuse. There are a few of those bikes around which are for some reason wired differently to most GS's
 
Stuart if you can get at the plug for the rider info display just check that there is positive on the solid red wire if there's not ??

You can test the theory by pushing a pin through the red wire and connecting to a meter or better still a bulb and to earth You can test further by taking a wire off battery positive through as small a fuse as you can find eg 1 amp is plenty but a 3 or 5 or whatever will do and touch the positive wire to the pin the clock should come on

If it does then you can properly splice into the red wire with a feed from the Red wire on the Accessory Power point or any fully Red wire at the connections point under the tank and run a single wire

Cut and insulate the loom side of the wire you are splicing into up at the rider display connection solder and tape or heat shrink is much preferred but a scotchlock (Yeeeeeuuughhhh!!!) will do as a temporary measure

Also you need to fit an accessible fuse as near the power source as you can get to it bearing in mind you "might" have to change it at some point in the future, basically "just in case" maybe it rubs through against metal later on )

N.B. Test both sides of the RID connector It may have 12 v +ve at the loom side but loses it in the connector!
 


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