R1150GS TPS setting with engine IDLING or NOT ?

[metallic_lt]

Hello People!

I adjusted throttle body STOP screw ( fortunately, did NOT touch TPS screws ) and now playing with it at the moment.

I read TPS reading should be 370mV and most sources advise to measure with engine OFF. But some say to set it to 370mV WITH engine IDLING.

I am reading TPS from pins 1 and 4.

Question: Should engine be IDLING or NOT?

Some TPS reading:

1. Engine is cold ( standing overnight ) TPS reading 394mV ( Engine off after 1min idling TPS = 384mV, Engine off after 2min idling TPS = 380mV and engine temperature 1 bar )
2. Cold engine idling TPS reading 362mV
3. Hot engine idling TPS = 366mV ( 5 bar Temp )
4. Hot engine OFF TPS = 393mV ( 5 bar Temp )

COLD / HOT engine did not make much difference in TPS reading.

BUT .... Should I set TPS to 370mV with engine IDLING of OFF?

Thank You !

 

[Flipfly]

Unfortunately it won't matter unless you know what voltage it was at prior to you touching the unmentionables (I've done it too)

 

[metallic_lt]

Any advise then? Zero=Zero option? Shell I take it to BMW dealer? What would they do?

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Hello People!

I adjusted throttle body STOP screw ( fortunately, did NOT touch TPS screws ) and now playing with it at the moment.

I read TPS reading should be 370mV and most sources advise to measure with engine OFF. But some say to set it to 370mV WITH engine IDLING.

I am reading TPS from pins 1 and 4.

Question: Should engine be IDLING or NOT?

Some TPS reading:

1. Engine is cold ( standing overnight ) TPS reading 394mV ( Engine off after 1min idling TPS = 384mV, Engine off after 2min idling TPS = 380mV and engine temperature 1 bar )
2. Cold engine idling TPS reading 362mV
3. Hot engine idling TPS = 366mV ( 5 bar Temp )
4. Hot engine OFF TPS = 393mV ( 5 bar Temp )

COLD / HOT engine did not make much difference in TPS reading.

BUT .... Should I set TPS to 370mV with engine IDLING of OFF?

Thank You !

Any of the voltages you measured are fine. It doesn't need to be that accurate. Target 350 mV with the engine idling. You can read the white thread or just the recommendations here: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=899341#Post899341.

Zero=zero is wrong. At zero degrees throttle you want the TPS to read 250 mV. I'm not a fan of changing the throttle stop screws or TPS but if you do you want zero=250, see above thread.

 

[metallic_lt]

TPS reads 6mV when fully closed ( TPS stop screw fully out ). There is no paint on TPS hex screw. Looks like somebody performed zero=zero already. Bike idles normally and BBS is 45 degree out ( 1/8 of full turn out from lightly seated position ).

I reduced TSP to 310mV and had to turn BBS to 180 degree. Bike runs livelier now but was spitting occasionally during the first run. I did not recall any back-spitting later.

I will attempt zero=250 procedure and let you know the results. Now I want to record oxygen sensor reading and compare it with reading after zero=250.

 

[Hay Ewe]

Be aware that there are are two Zero=Zero, one for 1150 and one for 1100
I dont have the links at the moment, but I did find the zero=zero for the 1150 on ADV.

You can also dissconnect the battery, I think pull a fuse(?) and then re-connect, ignition on and roll the throttle maximum a few times shut down and then do a start.
that is supposed to do some kind of re-set.

 

[hops]

Copied from here

Basic Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Setting
For the 200x BMW R1150x motorcycle. Document Version: 3.1
This is recommended for users that are attempting basic settings, as set by the dealer.
Copyright ©2003 Dirk Brewer
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivs-NonCommercial License. To view a copy of this license, visit
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd-nc/1.0/
or send a letter to Creative Commons, 559 Nathan Abbott Way, Stanford, California 94305, USA.Second method is to use fine single strand insulated wire (example: Computer wire wrap available from
electronic parts supply stores), stripped roughly 10-15mm, and insert the wire as far as possible in the
connector and then reconnect the plug to the TPS. The wire will bend around inside the connector.
Figure 3: Probe wires inserted Figure 4: Probe wires inserted and plug reconnected
Connect your voltmeter negative on Pin 4, positive on Pin 1. Turn on the ignition (DO NOT START
ENGINE).
Note the voltage, which should read between 0.32 - 0.40 V. The preferred voltage is 0.36 V.
If the voltage is out of the acceptable range, loosen the two TORX screws and carefully rotate the entire
TPS module left or right to obtain the voltage of 0.36 V. Tighten the TORX screws.
Flip the throttle and verify the voltages, readjust if necessary.
Tighten the TORX screws
Figure 5: Voltage Readings
Step 3.
Turn off the ignition, and remove the wires.
Step 5.
Rest the Motronic. Either by disconnecting the ground cable off the battery, or removing the fuse for the
Motronic, diagnostic plug (see your owners manual to verify which fuse) for one minute. Reconnect the
battery or fuse, turn on the ignition (DO NOT START ENGINE) and twist the throttle 3 times to the full
open position. Now start the engine.
Summary:
Voltage across Pins 1(+) and 4(-) = 0.36 Volts
With ignition ON, engine OFF

 

[Steptoe]

I will attempt zero=250 procedure and let you know the results.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo....

 

[metallic_lt]

Steptoe: Why not?

 

[uncle dick]

Any advise then? Zero=Zero option? Shell I take it to BMW dealer? What would they do?

You'd confuse the heck out of any dealer tech I've ever met. If it's not in their little diagnostic flow chart they're stuffed. Assuming you haven't touched the r/h stop screw, you could set the by pass screws the same then balance the cylinders using the left hand screw. Failing that, zero-zero does work if you follow the instructions - most people don't and then come on here to moan about it. The variation in TPS voltage running and stopped is due to wear in the spindle. The change you're seeing isn't huge and tbh, the voltage is pretty close so I wouldn't stress too much.

 

[metallic_lt]

Completed zero=250 by Roger 04 RT and took bike for a 30 mins ride. 50/50 city/dual carriageway. It was 9pm so not much traffic. Bike feels even more responsive, easier to take off, more power on overdrive gear. I wouldn't say it fills like a different bike but definitely a better bike. Engine revs happier and easier after 4k. And now the weirdest thing: gear box works better!!! Might be the consequence of changing gears at higher revs due to better breathing engine OR it ALL could be just placebo effect.

Roger 04 RT <-

- BBS are now 2 turns ( 720 degrees ) out now agains initial 45 degrees.

- Bike backfired (not just a spit but proper "bung") 3 times during the ride.

 

[MotoRevive]

I've used the zero=250 method. It works well if you have a bike that's been overfettled with and needs "Resetting".

Ignition on with warm but not hot engine. Clean and set BBS at 2.5 turns out. I slacken off all cables and stops. Snap the throttles shut. Then set the TPS to read 250Mv at this position and lock it off. Permanently. You then screw in the LH throttle screw until the voltage on the meter shows 340Mv. Then you lock off the LH throttle stop screw. Permanently. With synchronising gauges, balance the RH throttle stop to match the left. Now you lock off the RH throttle stop screw. Ignore idle speed

You will probably be idling high now. Around 1300-1400 rpm. I now turn in the BBS 1/4 turn each side until the idle drops to 1150rmp. They must match on the gauge. This is essential.

Now you balance your cables. This is usually just setting the slack correctly on the LH throttle then using the gauges again, adjust the RH cable until it matches the left at 3000+Rpm. Fine tune at the handlebar.

I did this today on an 1150 that had been badly set and now it purrs beautifully at 1100-1150rpm and pulls through the whole rev range without any surges or peaks.

 

[ThreeDawg]

Holy thread revival Batman!

 

[MotoRevive]

Holy thread revival Batman!

Blame Tapatalk....

Still. Itsts always fun to dust off an old book now and again

Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk

 

[theoneandonly]

BBS = big brass screw ? you mean air bypass screw ?