Re fitting bevel box r1100s aaahhhhhh!!!!!

digglevanman

Registered user
Joined
Apr 9, 2011
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Diggle, England
Dear All....I have had the bearing replaced in the bevel box, but now I cannot get the splines to engage...everything is nice and clean, I have get it to a point where with the engine in gear, turning the hub back and fwd it seems to be engaged, but I cant get the thing to slide onto the spines..I would take it to a man that knows how....but with no back wheel I cant even push it into the van....Help
 
It's a tricky one and over time you will develop the knack. It's all to do with getting the correct angle between to two wobbly bits.

Here what I do:

Attach the bevel box to the torque arm. This gives you a pivot point making it easier to lift with one hand. A friend with a spare 10 minutes can be useful here too.
Get two screwdrivers. Feed them through the threaded holes where the pivot bolts go. This will allow you to lift and move side to side the two wobbly bits. Get them mated so the splines fit together. Then use the screwdrivers to lift and get straight the driveshaft and UJ. Apply slight forward pressure on the bevel box at the same time. When you get the angles correct the two bits slide together easily.

It sounds harder than it actually is but once you get it all right you'll be amazed at how easy they slide back together.

It took me lots of swearing and dropped pivot bearings to work out this simple method.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Rob C
 
calm down dear.... :augie

I've got to the point of apperplexy with this myself in the past.. but did it this weekend in a couple of minutes

Best tips are to get a rag and stuff it under the input shaft so it sits aligned in the middle of the housing ready to accept the male. I put the bottom bolt through the torque arm to steady the process, then put two of the wheel bolts into their holes to allow you to rotate and adjust the male. Just offer the male up and push - if it doesn't take just withdraw a tiny fraction and turn the male using the wheel bolts and try again - make sure you withdraw it enough so that you don't rotate male and female together. Be patient and keep trying. I wear a head torch to see whats going on too. Just remember to pull the rag out when they've mated!

If you want to align the upper and lower UJs then others will tell you how but I don't bother - my R1100S has 165k on and its only had a sinle UJ problem at 75k.

Good luck - its just practice!
 
What year is your bike - the later driveshafts have an indexed spline and can only be engaged in one position. :D
 
Indexed spines???? Mine is a 1999 I do hope it hasnt got them sounds very painfull.
Thanks for advice to date, I am going to put on some calming whale song and try again.
Watch this space.
 
Indexed spines???? Mine is a 1999 I do hope it hasnt got them sounds very painfull.
Thanks for advice to date, I am going to put on some calming whale song and try again.
Watch this space.

For indexed, read 'keyed'. One of the splines is double width to ensure the required UJ alignment. Never seen a keyed one on an S though.
 
That's right - you need to align the joints as well - do a search and find a picture to understand this bit
 
The Screwdriver trick works. After screwing around trying to do the same thing as you are but when the temp was 10f in an unheated garage and bitching about it this forum and being chewed out by ST... who suggested the screwdriver trick it worked. The rag trick didn't.
If the spines are not keyed, take the time to phase the u-joints.
 


Back
Top Bottom