Rear crankshaft oilseal

[John Roberts]

I'll be doing some work on the gearbox on my '82 RS soon and I've ordered a new oilseal for the back end of the crank. It's never leaked but it seems a no-brainer to me after 88,000 miles. Am I right? I only ask in case absolutely EVERYBODY knows that they go on forever and they ought not be touched. I doubt it though.

And I do know that there's a chance that the thrust bearing can drop out of place when the flywheel is removed- what's the dodge to stop that happening- wedging something between the front cover and the nose of the crank- something like that?

So: replace the oilseal, right?

 

[Canuck]

Some people wedge a piece of wood (from memory its like 7-8 mm), with double sided tape so that it adheres to the pokey out bit, between the the crank and front cover... which is replaced after the wood block is stuck on. Other people use a folded towel shoved in there then cover put back on ... the goal is anything to stop it from moving. I'd replace the oil seal and o-ring in oil pump while I was at it.

 

[John Roberts]

Some people wedge a piece of wood (from memory its like 7-8 mm), with double sided tape so that it adheres to the pokey out bit, between the the crank and front cover... which is replaced after the wood block is stuck on. Other people use a folded towel shoved in there then cover put back on ... the goal is anything to stop it from moving. I'd replace the oil seal and o-ring in oil pump while I was at it.

Great! I never thought of that one, cheers.

 

[Kenny]

If it ain't broke.........

If you do replace it, make sure you get the latest type ( copious amounts of wine prevent me from remembering at the mo ) and pre form the bugger before fitting etc.

 

[Canuck]

I think the new one is red.... maybe... or at least before they maybe got that one made in black (its slightly thicker whatever the colour.

Found it...

Original oil pump O-ring was black 11-41-1-250-274, 0.079" thick. That part was discontinued a long time ago in favor of a red O-ring that is slightly thicker, at 0.084", part 11-41-1-335-895. SOME parts lists and on-line fiche, will show it as 11-41-1-335-896.

 

[DrFarkoff]

If it ain't broke.........

Yup if it aint leaking leave it alone

If you do replace it, make sure you get the latest type

Sorry Kenny Have to disagree on that one!! They are shite and so easy to get a knick in one probably rates up there with the 1200 hexhead final drive design !

Just get a std double lip seal from your local seal / bearing place for a quarter of the price

Note depth of old seal from the outside of the block to the surface of it before you remove it!!!

 

[ianboydsnr]

it's one of those jobs that you think should I replace, just as it's easy to get to, but if it's not leaking and you replace it, there's no guarantee that you won't shortly have to pull the new one, because it is leaking,

leave alone if it's not leaking is a much better decision!