REAR DRIVE REBUILDS 1200 GS

[bsogri]

I have just replaced the big bearing in rear drive and,checked the rest over.

I had to make up a few tools ie, puller and sleeve to dismantle the bugger

Replaced seal, bearing and circlip and good as new

There must be loads of rear drives around which need rebuilding

Contact me if you need yours doing

e-mail:- [email protected]

phone:- 0191 5220217

A new one is aprox £900

 

[BlueBird]

Not wishing to cut your cabbage

The crown wheel bearings are the easy part,
its the pinion gear set up that is the more tricky part,and don't forget to check the backlash between the 2 to save them eating each other for lunch.

Probably be ok but to be on the sure side

 

[dave perry]

I'll give him a try

I noticed a light rumble, then small metallic debris in the FD oil - Oh Dear !
(2007 - 45k miles - ridden hard- FD oil changed 12k miles)
I removed the unit ( jeez that pivot bolt was tight !) and stripped it this AM. The crown wheel bearing has a definite rumble - the pinion side seems fine. The bevel teeth are nicely polished in. I had not noticed any change in noise when riding. I will keep you posted - regards dp

 

[BlueBird]

started mine today,
made jig for it to sit on and undo pinion nut and castle nut,as we know those mothers are fcukiing tight!!.

Got them undone though,just as well,the large pinion bearing was starting to break up,

got to make up pullers etc for rest and to pull the pinion shaft,
got loads of pics,easy enough if you got all the pullers I imagine.

 

[dave perry]

Cook the thread lock !

Re tight pivot bolts ( & nanyb other with lock on) the trick is to heat the threadlock up to around 100 degC _ apparently this will destroy the gunge. Use a hot air gun - not a blow lamp !!

 

[BlueBird]

It ain't threadlock hold the pinion nut its 180nm,But heat is definately yr friend when taling the FD apart.

anyway got as far as spliting the case and removing crown wheel from cover,that was a bit tight,lot of rust type shite between bearing and shaft holding it.

thats gona be my lot for a couple of weeks as Im off to work

I have loads of pics and will do a full how to,including making a jig and pullers when I get the time

 

[ebbo]

It ain't threadlock hold the pinion nut its 180nm,But heat is definately yr friend when taling the FD apart.

anyway got as far as spliting the case and removing crown wheel from cover,that was a bit tight,lot of rust type shite between bearing and shaft holding it.

thats gona be my lot for a couple of weeks as Im off to work

I have loads of pics and will do a full how to,including making a jig and pullers when I get the time

Looking forward to reading it Bluebird

I should read Pats thread on this while your at it - http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166875

 

[BlueBird]

A Taster

 

[BlueBird]

sum more

 

[BlueBird]

and more

 

[BlueBird]

Fully stripped

Finally got it fully stripped,removing the inner bearing race,s from the pinion gear is a right bitch without the right gear,in the end I welded a 3 leg puller to them,also a slide hammer to remove the outer cage of the neeadle roller.still its a learning curve,I caught it just in time I reckon the bearing on the pinion were well worn,the needle roller fell apart when I pullled the shaft out.

Start putting it back together in the morning

 

[BlueBird]

It,s Done.

Got it all back together yestarday and took it for a 200 mile run,all ok so far.

It took me so long because of working away at sea at the moment,

The hardest and most time consuming part is making all the jigs, pullers/pushers/slide hammers to remove and fit the various bearings from the shafts and housing,although that was also the most enjoyable part.

If I have to do it again (touch's wood) I will make sure I have 2 not 1 heat guns to warm the casing quicker and get more even heat into it and not to take phone calls when I have a 50quid bearing in the oven,as I left it in there to long and fucked it

Got loads of pics and will do a full write up showing the tools made etc when I get back to work next week.

 

[leftofcentre]

A new one is aprox £900

James Sherlock - Part # 607351 Final drive unit, silver, ratio 33/12 £487.51

Or am i missing something here?

 

[BlueBird]

James Sherlock - Part # 607351 Final drive unit, silver, ratio 33/12 £487.51

Or am i missing something here?

Yeah its a used one,with no known history Doh!!!!

 

[leftofcentre]

Yeah its a used one,with no known history Doh!!!!

Fucking used!!???

Where does it say that?? doh back at ya!

 

[BlueBird]

Fucking used!!???

Where does it say that?? doh back at ya!

If thats for a new one tell Bmw and they will buy all Sherlocks have got!!!

 

[Rasher]

If thats for a new one tell Bmw and they will buy all Sherlocks have got!!!

I bet the BMW factory gate cost is well below £400, if new ones are £900 the dealer has a couple of hundred in it, as does BMW UK and BMW in Germany have probably slapped a couple of hundred on top as well.

I would guess BMW get them made / buy them in for a max of a couple of hundred quid.

 

[TeaPig]

Finally got it fully stripped,removing the inner bearing race,s from the pinion gear is a right bitch without the right gear,in the end I welded a 3 leg puller to them,also a slide hammer to remove the outer cage of the neeadle roller.still its a learning curve,I caught it just in time I reckon the bearing on the pinion were well worn,the needle roller fell apart when I pullled the shaft out.

Start putting it back together in the morning

I pulled the inner race with a 2 leg puller after cutting 2 deep slots in the race with grinder (being v. careful not to go too deep and into pinion shaft). Then held the legs together in a vice so they wouldn't pop out, applied a lot of heat and off it came. Bas*rd tight though.

As said already, check out Pat's thread on FD rebuilds and his pinion nut castle sockets

Be very wary of secondhand FD's. The one I bought was as knackered as my own. Wiggle the input shaft, if there's any sideways movement the bearings are failing

 

[BlueBird]

I pulled the inner race with a 2 leg puller after cutting 2 deep slots in the race with grinder (being v. careful not to go too deep and into pinion shaft). Then held the legs together in a vice so they wouldn't pop out, applied a lot of heat and off it came. Bas*rd tight though.

As said already, check out Pat's thread on FD rebuilds and his pinion nut castle sockets

Be very wary of secondhand FD's. The one I bought was as knackered as my own. Wiggle the input shaft, if there's any sideways movement the bearings are failing

Yep I got one of Pats sockets,he's the Daddy

I agrre with the movement on the input shaft,although mine did an extra 40k with movement on it,I opened it up coz of paranoia really (at 65k) like I said,the bearings on the pinion gear fell apart as I pulled the shaft out so was well lucky I did when I did