¼" drive; up to about 25Nm.
What do you suggest?
Greg
What do you suggest?
Greg
Recommend a torque wrench
- Thread starter Greg Masters
- Start date
ghiribizzo
Registered user
Snap-On QJ117C. Conversion scales on the body for Nm~LbIn. You could go mad with a more expensive digital one.
Wrenches of a lesser quality are available...
Wrenches of a lesser quality are available...
Snap-On QJ117C. Conversion scales on the body for Nm~LbIn. You could go mad with a more expensive digital one.
Wrenches of a lesser quality are available...
A just a tad over £205 it's a bit cheapskate for me! And it's only accurate to 4-6% - the Halfords Pro item tested better than that - shame they don't do a ¼" model.
Greg
sockpuppet
Registered user
Halfords pro torque wrench 3/8 with a convertor down to 1/4 
Facom 208-25 
Browse their excellent online catalogue - unless you know a local Facom dealer, have a look at Prime Tools - I've bought from them before with great service
Browse their excellent online catalogue - unless you know a local Facom dealer, have a look at Prime Tools - I've bought from them before with great service
Baron von Munchausen
Registered user
Jeremy Burgess once told me that if you cant judge the correct torque of a thread up to 14m then its best to leave it to someone who can.
Davy F
Registered user
Teng. 
I have two of the suckers, a small one for really light loads and a bigger one for the heavy stuff. In my experiance, just as good as the kit the tool snobs use, but much more affordable.
I have two of the suckers, a small one for really light loads and a bigger one for the heavy stuff. In my experiance, just as good as the kit the tool snobs use, but much more affordable.
I find Norbar stuff good for quality and at a reasonable price
(RIP) Mark H
Formerly known as Easyrider5258 (Mark)
Teng +1
Jeremy Burgess once told me that if you cant judge the correct torque of a thread up to 14m then its best to leave it to someone who can.
+1 - we have a local Honda parts specialist run by a proper 'back in the day' old boy racer - his opinion is that torque wrenches are for those that don't know their own strength - he still races, and to this day has never employed a torque wrench.
I don't think any of his bikes have fallen apart
+1 - we have a local Honda parts specialist run by a proper 'back in the day' old boy racer - his opinion is that torque wrenches are for those that don't know their own strength - he still races, and to this day has never employed a torque wrench.
I don't think any of his bikes have fallen apart
I've never broken my head either, but that doesn't stop me wearing a crash hat!
I rather disagree with that philosophy (even though lack of a small torque wrench has thus far forced me to adopt it). Back in the good old days when we were generally screwing AF and UNC threads into steel housings, you couldn't do much wrong. But these days you now find fine threads being screwed into alloy housings. Overtighten and you strip the thread; undertighten and it falls apart. In particular I am thinking of the triple clamp yokes on my Husaberg - not an area you'd want to get wrong.
It actually isn't very macho to say you never use a torque wrench when you can buy a suitable tool for a few quid.
Greg
+1
Why have a torque figure if your just going to guess it, over-tighten and it can snap, under-tighten and it'll drop off 
Anyway I have two, both from Halfords and for what I need them for they do me fine
Mr K
Registered user
There's something deeply satisfying about having the right toools for a job. 
Got a Teng one for little torques and a Halfords one for big torques.
Got a Teng one for little torques and a Halfords one for big torques.
For that very same job I use my Draper, Model No. 3004A
+1
Anyway I have two, both from Halfords and for what I need them for they do me fine
Quite agree - personally I use torque wrenches where applicable - but he's an old boy who sets his valve clearances by sight and inflates his tyres by feel - just passing on his views for the your general amusement.......
Baron von Munchausen
Registered user
funny but true, as a lad I used to do everything by the book.
I remember carefully measuring torque on missle pods in south America (even though the ex Vietnam Hueys were hour expired and full of bullet holes)
but now, yes I do sometimes put my heel on the rim to see if the tyre squashes.
and
Valve clerances need to be half way between sloppy and tight
plug gap - as long as its parallel its ok
Black oil needs changing
worn carb - drop needle a notch
mix meths with petrol to clean out water in tank
Chain - should not bang against swinging arm
try 'seal swell' before stripping an engine to stop a leak
have been soldering up radiators recently
glued a hole in a tyre
and even swap bits over for our safety/ emission tests
(dont worry - I never sell one of my old vehicles !)
I remember carefully measuring torque on missle pods in south America (even though the ex Vietnam Hueys were hour expired and full of bullet holes)
but now, yes I do sometimes put my heel on the rim to see if the tyre squashes.
and
Valve clerances need to be half way between sloppy and tight
plug gap - as long as its parallel its ok
Black oil needs changing
worn carb - drop needle a notch
mix meths with petrol to clean out water in tank
Chain - should not bang against swinging arm
try 'seal swell' before stripping an engine to stop a leak
have been soldering up radiators recently
glued a hole in a tyre
and even swap bits over for our safety/ emission tests
(dont worry - I never sell one of my old vehicles !)
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