Recommendations for electronic ignition for a twin spark R80GS

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Ive just had the diode board go on my 1996 twin spark R80GS. Im aware of the replacement boards but thought I might go the whole hog and upgrade to electronic ignition and a brushless alternator. Im aware of Enduralast and Silent Hektik but wondered if members had better recommendations or experiences that they could pass on ie ease of installation,suppliers here or in Germany, downsides (cost) and anything else I might want to consider before the bank balance takes a hit. All recommendations or advice appreciated.:ChrisKelly
 
Boyer make an ignition for bean cans that has a twin spark curve in it. Apparently the curve is spot on. You will need either an old bean can or to take the guts out of yours.
 
Boyer make an ignition for bean cans that has a twin spark curve in it. Apparently the curve is spot on. You will need either an old bean can or to take the guts out of yours.

I was aware of Boyer but from an accuracy point of view thought crankshaft driven electronic ignition was a better bet. Engine is a 1043 and am looking at Richie heads:ChrisKelly
 
There is a theoretical advantage in a crank mount, but that does not translate to any measurable difference - Guys who have mounted high cost crank mounts , switchable back to back with stock, report no noticeable difference switching between the systems.

If your timing chain is so worn that you cant get a steady reading on a cam mount ignition, change the chain - it isnt going to get any better and if left will eventually cause a lot of damage, and in any event 2 or 3 degrees out on the valve timing will cost a lot more power than a couple of degrees on the ignition.

But you have a a 1043 cc twin plug R80 GS motor with modified heads, so accuracy doesnt come in to it - you will have to set the timing by test, or on a dyno, anyway, so the only difference is that the Boyer will cost about a quarter of the price of the crank mount, and has one perfect curve, so you wont need extra dyno time working out which one of the 22 curves on your crank mount works best.

And if you are spending the cash on a 1047 conversion and high value heads, why not get Ritchie to set the squish band set properly - if you do you wont really need the twin plugs anyway.
 
Sounds like somebody had cash to waste. I'm sure there's plenty of people out there rubbing their hands together in anticipation of taking it off you :D
 
There is a theoretical advantage in a crank mount, but that does not translate to any measurable difference - Guys who have mounted high cost crank mounts , switchable back to back with stock, report no noticeable difference switching between the systems.

If your timing chain is so worn that you cant get a steady reading on a cam mount ignition, change the chain - it isnt going to get any better and if left will eventually cause a lot of damage, and in any event 2 or 3 degrees out on the valve timing will cost a lot more power than a couple of degrees on the ignition.

But you have a a 1043 cc twin plug R80 GS motor with modified heads, so accuracy doesnt come in to it - you will have to set the timing by test, or on a dyno, anyway, so the only difference is that the Boyer will cost about a quarter of the price of the crank mount, and has one perfect curve, so you wont need extra dyno time working out which one of the 22 curves on your crank mount works best.

And if you are spending the cash on a 1047 conversion and high value heads, why not get Ritchie to set the squish band set properly - if you do you wont really need the twin plugs anyway.

Thank you for your advice. I dont have loads of money to chuck around so the Boyer route sounds a good way to go. As regards the diode board and alternator have you any recommendations on replacements?:ChrisKelly
 
Some uk tuners won't fit the Boyer twins park microdigital to their builds, talking about high rev pinging.

The Sachse optical crank mounted ignition has a couple of curves that are just about perfect and are much easier than the SH ignition to set up. 280 euros, good back up.

Charles
 
The current Boyer system is the Micropower, and and its modest price includes coils.

Boyer got a bit of a kick in the pants when some of their staff left to set up Pazon, and their current production is quite a bit different from their earlier stuff, including different curves.
It is unlikely that if any reputable tuner actually had a problem with a Boyer M,icrodigital syste he wouldn't tell Boyer what he had found, and even more unlikely that Boyer wouldn't do something about it.

The new Micropower system includes compatible coils,leads and plug caps, which may be an indication that there was a problem if the wrong coils were fitted to the earlier systems..

I have one on a Hi Comp 1000cc R80 G/S and it has performed perfectly, transforming a vibratory slug in to a smooth powerhouse, with no sign of pinging anywhere.

But then it has the squish clearances, carburation and timing set properly, something even professionals dont always seem to have the time to do.
 
The current Boyer system is the Micropower, and and its modest price includes coils.

Boyer got a bit of a kick in the pants when some of their staff left to set up Pazon, and their current production is quite a bit different from their earlier stuff, including different curves.
It is unlikely that if any reputable tuner actually had a problem with a Boyer M,icrodigital syste he wouldn't tell Boyer what he had found, and even more unlikely that Boyer wouldn't do something about it.

The new Micropower system includes compatible coils,leads and plug caps, which may be an indication that there was a problem if the wrong coils were fitted to the earlier systems..

I have one on a Hi Comp 1000cc R80 G/S and it has performed perfectly, transforming a vibratory slug in to a smooth powerhouse, with no sign of pinging anywhere.

But then it has the squish clearances, carburation and timing set properly, something even professionals dont always seem to have the time to do.

Interesting information Beemerboff, thankyou. Being a true Brit I would rather buy British as our economy needs it so will do some research on Boyer. Are you running a standard alternator or have you upgraded that as well? :ChrisKelly
 
The standard alternator works just fine unless you add both auxiliary lights and heated clothing.

Most old Brit bikes had at the best a 120 watt alternator, and they struggled through with that.

So if you add a 60 watt driving light and around the same watts for heated grips then the OEM BMW alternator, at 280 watts, should cope OK, and still have a bit left to charge the battery, as you are still looking at a total draw of 240/250 watts.

Provided you get the revs up occasionally, and don't drive exclusively n the dark.

But add a heated waistcoat ,or a second driving lamp and / or a slow commute in the darkness each way and you are getting close to trouble.

But as a retiree in sunny Oz, with a LED driving lamp and my usual night time run 100 km on the freeway back from the shack on the river the stock system copes OK.
 
Hi

I have just begun making a new loom for a friend's latest project which is an R65 café racer. It is a single plug head with points in the bean can and we sourced the digital Boyer with coils from Motorworks. Following the instructions to the letter it was simple enough to disassemble the bean can and fit the Boyer internals.

We're also dumping the mechanical regulator and diode board in favour of the RR45 from Electrex who have been most helpful.

My own twin-plugged GS had the bean can tweaked by Mr. Sexton and shows no evidence of detonation but I am still tempted to try out the Boyer myself.

Sean
 


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