DRZ and other bikes that run a dry sump/oil in frame arrangement.
The engine oil at temperature melts what grease there is in the frame and over time this will vacate the headstock void and run dr the bearings. Usually a tightening of the steering is a notice to look ok for.
Drill the headstock tube on the right hand side 5mm dia hole and tap it M6, then fit a grease nipple.
The DRZ400 and DRZ400E (not S or SM) have a void that is sealed enough for you to pump in enough grease to keep the bearings lubed and keep water out.
The S and SM have a hole for the steering lock bolt to penetrate so a limited amount of grease can be applied but some will work it's way through the SLB hole and out onto the top of the mudguard under the lower yoke. No problem though as there will be enough in the headstock tube to lube the lower bearing, which is 99% of the time the most prone to failure.
Timpo, thanks for the suggestion re: the grease nipple I remember you mentioned that in a previous post. I will be doing this on Sat' but unfortunately I dont have the kit to fit a nipple (slightly doubt my ability too) . Andres gave me a call and he suggested it too but its clearly something that should be done whilst the bearings are out so it will have to wait until next time.
Is it worth using a specific grease maybe with a high melting point for now ?
Phil , thanks a bunch for that link matey . Really good stuff
Absolutely brilliant video clip Phil, couldn't have done the job without it.
The whole thing was fairly straight forward ( as these things usually are) providing you have the right kit. This is always my biggest concern when starting a job that i've not done before and always my downfall.
There were several items I did not have which I normally find out 1/2 way through a job or most likely several times during a job which necessitates stopping & several feckin trips to buy tools etc which just drags a simple job out.
This time I tried to work out where I was going to get stuck. First was the steering stem bolt. I had to go out in the week and buy a 32 mm socket cos nothing I had would touch it , 2nd was the appropriate grease , I went to 4 places on Sat' morning - 2 bike dealers, Halfords, and a motor factors and none of them had an appropriate waterproof grease ( 2 said we'll have some in on Monday ). In the end i bought a CV lithium grease for bearings that claims to be waterproof.
I stripped the whole front of the bike down following the Clymer, no problems , had a look at getting the bearing cups out but they just wouldn't shift. My drifts weren't long enough, my biggest screwdriver kept slipping off the cup, i found a long piece of box section metal tubing that wouldnt get any puchase on the cups either. An hour or so later I'd got nowhere with it and was pissed off.
Yet again I was let down in the middle of the job by insufficient tool/implements.
Went back watched Phils video and they used a long solid metal rod but I had nothing similar, emailed the link to my father in law to be and asked if he had anything lying around at work like that . '" Almost certainly, I'll pop into work in the morning (Sunday) and see ".........9am he's at the front door with a suitable rod ............9.15am both of the old cups are out & lying on the garage floor..............it's always fekkin easier when you have the right kit lying around.
However, I couldn't get the old bearing completely off the stem and once again without the suitable tools the job defeated me. So the FILTB has taken it to work for one of the lads in the workshop to whip off for me and then tonight I can easily put the front end back together again, job should be done
Resurrecting this old thead.
Looks like I have to replace the bearings too.
Couple of questions. I have a 2000 S.
I don't use the steering lock (lost key). Can I use that to install a grease nipple instead of the lock?
Also, is there any way to seal the inner slot for the steering lock?