Just replaced my rear brake pads and after refitting all according to guide the inside (not the one with the pistons) pad is rubbing against the disc. Is this normal? Or has anyone else had this issue? They were sourced in Nippy Normans and are EBC pads. Thanks
replacing rear brake pads
- Thread starter smally
- Start date
Is the calliper able to slide from side to side freely? Is the wheel hard to turn by hand? The calliper might need to be freed and the surfaces cleaned up. JJH
Yes moves fine side to side but when tightened up rubs against the disc on the inside pad. Wheel hard to turn by hand, is this bedding in?
Meant to say the reason I decided to replace the pads was I have just replaced the rear tyre, so wheel was off and then replaced.
The pad resting against the disc is normal providing the wheel spins freely.
No.
I suggest you take it to bits clean the parts and reassemble.
Do the pistons move ?
cheers will do, a nice wet saturday job!
well all disassembled and cleaned with wire wool, wire brush and copper grease applied and to pistons etc. All put back together and yes all running smoothly. Went for a spin and although calliper a bit hot all running well. Thanks for help, will wait for Haynes manual before attempting front pads!!
If you haven’t already done so, please check that the caliper mounting bracket bolts are tight and secure. If it’s an Adventure, check your spokes whilst you are there. I’d hate to see another wheel collapse
EBC (HH) pads are thicker than the OEM pads which may well be the reason for the rubbing if the pistons won't retract far enough. I was warned off them for this very reason. I know many people have had the same problem with them.
Really? I’ve been using them for years and never had an issue.
PhilBoy
Registered user
EBC sintered pads used on last three bikes and no problem with clearance.
I always found it easier to “rock” the calliper on the old pads to ensure the pistons are fully retracted - makes the fitting of the new ones ten times easier - once the new ones are fitted a push or two on the pedal and job done.
Never really had a problem with getting the pistons all the way back. I've found it important to regularly clean the brakes to avoid crud and corrosion building up there which is the primary contributor (that and a build up of corrosive/abrasive brake dust) to damaging the external piston surfaces and dragging crud into the seals. As long as the surfaces are kept in good order, the pistons go back easily enough. Brake pad changes don't take too long but the rear seems to need fairly frequent replacement....not much meat on them to begin with!
Thanks lads had a great run today around 150 miles around the country and all performed perfectly. Yes nuts checked before and after the run and all tight and out of sight!!! Thanks for all your help. Yes they are EBC and would say they are probably a bit thicker than stock. Never knew that before.
I would be inclined to get in there again and remove the copper grease and use brake or silicone grease on pins and pistons instead.
You should not use copper grease on the pistons, silicone grease yes.
I remove my rear brake pads every 3 months and give them a good clean. Brake dust will stick to the piston potentially causing problems down the line.
Even scrape out the dust from the wear indicators.
Even scrape out the dust from the wear indicators.
oddjob
Registered user
You should not use copper grease on the pistons, silicone grease yes.
Or, you can also use Red Rubber Grease https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/castrol-red-rubber-grease-cas5900/
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