replacing UJ bearings on 1150 shaft?

toucan

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hello everybody,

my bike (2004 1150gs adv) has developed its first problem after 114000km. i have been feeling a grinding sensation in the foot pegs for about a week. at first i thought it was the rear brake pads been down to the metal but after changing them the problem was still there.

this morning i decided to check inside the rubber boot between the final drive and swing arm. lo and behold there are pieces of needle rollers lying there. so i figure my uj bearings are toast.
has anybody fixed them before or is it a case of bend over and get another shaft?
 
bearings

Most likely the paralever bearings have gone hence the grinding, been the u/j and disaster would have happened if that was grinding. Easy to do, just to a search.
 
Easy enough to do . Did mine on Monday afternoon and much better ,NO movement in wheel , There was a few mm play at 12 &6 and 9 & 3 . Now all is good , bearings were in bad state when i checked ,
 
thanks for the replies, i think i'm on the right track now.

the needle is about 2mm in diameter and 8mm long. so it is almost the same as the one in John Armstrong's thread. this is on an adventure so perhaps bmw revised the design.

i don't feel any play in the rear wheel but the grinding/rumbling sensation was worse when the suspension unloaded over bumps in the road. so at least its not the gearbox.

does anyone know the bearing number so that i can go to the local bearing supplier?
 
thanks for the replies, i think i'm on the right track now.

the needle is about 2mm in diameter and 8mm long. so it is almost the same as the one in John Armstrong's thread. this is on an adventure so perhaps bmw revised the design.

i don't feel any play in the rear wheel but the grinding/rumbling sensation was worse when the suspension unloaded over bumps in the road. so at least its not the gearbox.

does anyone know the bearing number so that i can go to the local bearing supplier?


Only available from BMW :comfort you actually need to remove it first to see if the races and bolt it runs on are OK
 
About £30 for the pair for paralever bearings from BMW or Motorworks / Sherlock etc (or at least they where last time I bought some).

They're pretty easy to replace, but you'll need plenty of heat to soften the loctite on the pivot pinions. Don't be tempted to just crank them out - you can destroy the threads in the swingarm. You'll also need acetone (nail varnish remover) to clean off the old acetone (a tedious but necessary job - you've got to be able to set a low torque on the adjustable pivot and old loctite will stop you doing this).

If you're doing it by the book, you'll need a low range torque wrench to set the adjustable pivot (7Nm). Some people don't use a torque wrench or any loctite when reassembling (eh Tim? :) ). I use a torque wrench (as I've got a little low range 1/4" drive one) and the normal blue loctite (243?) not the green concrete specified. Having said that I'd happily do it by feel and with no loctite if I had to do it by the side of the road.

Loads on here about paralever bearing replacement if you do a search.

Edit: If / when you change the bearings, check that they haven't locked and galled the pivots (not out of the question if they've been shedding needles) - mine had locked up and knackered the fixed pivot:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/und9WHfa013kBdJx90CVoA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/ScfFWDxp2WI/AAAAAAAABhU/ldrG7n4rwLs/s800/IMG_4363.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/_IDpW2PXmpLymykdWUN0Pg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/ScfFmLwwBvI/AAAAAAAABhc/oh6dMB-T3kU/s800/IMG_4352.JPG" /></a>

If the pivot(s) are worn, you'll need to replace them too.
 
There are also a couple of different bush replacements for the paralever bearings. Google chicken rubber racing - US mob. I put these in my 1150gsa last week end. easy done. The BMW needle rollers stuff up because they only move a few degrees. Bushes should be better.
 
. The BMW needle rollers stuff up because they only move a few degrees. Bushes should be better.

Mine are the original bearings, 59K miles and as good as new - keep them adjusted correctly and grease once a year.
 
i've taken the bike apart and it is the UJ bearings on the sahft that have failed.
i'm still struggling to get the shaft off but i'll do some more research and try again.
 
i've taken the bike apart and it is the UJ bearings on the sahft that have failed.
i'm still struggling to get the shaft off but i'll do some more research and try again.

I am surprised Toucan, I have heard that the shafts can get "stuck" I would investigate a second hand good condition unit before buying new... failue of the actual UJ,s is less common than other issues..:thumb
 
I am surprised Toucan, I have heard that the shafts can get "stuck" I would investigate a second hand good condition unit before buying new... failue of the actual UJ,s is less common than other issues..:thumb

just my luck. the final drive is still perfect, and the stick coils and the servo, and the cam chain tensioner. but not the shaft that bmw want 7000runts. i am a bit worried about a 2nd hand shaft's reliability especially if it had been in a prang. but i will look around.
here is my shaft.
brokenuj1.jpg
 
just my luck. the final drive is still perfect, and the stick coils and the servo, and the cam chain tensioner. but not the shaft that bmw want 7000runts. i am a bit worried about a 2nd hand shaft's reliability especially if it had been in a prang. but i will look around.
here is my shaft.

Well yours had seen Gillooly,s :augie I would have a look around though for a good one, but the ADV ones are rumoured to be longer than the stocker... not that I think it would be an issue...
 


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