Restoring/anodising spoked 1100GS wheels

[Rabbitson]

Previously some of you might remember, I was asking your advice on good wheel cleaning products/techniques. I have been using some of these today, and despite being at it for a couple of hours, I can't get the wheels to look even half decent.

It seems that the rims have no lacquer on whatsoever, so it is almost impossible to remove any grime from the rims, as it is so well bonded to them and partially corroded in!! When I gave up, I had managed to get about half the grime off the front one, and about 25% off the rear. Frustratingly the wheels still look really dirty.

So now I am wondering what my options are, presumably I could get the wheels reconditioned/anodised (like the adventure ones), but because of the complex spoke design and amount of labour needed to get all the grime off and rebuild them, would it be cheaper just to wait until I can afford to buy some new ones and keep the old ones for some knobblies?

Cost is the most important factor really, so cheapest solution is best

Any ideas appreciated

David

 

[pragmatix]

Cost is the most important factor really, so cheapest solution is best

Any ideas appreciated

David

Hammerite?

Pete A

 

[Vern]

Yep, mine are matt black as well.

 

[Daz]

Restoring spoked wheels

I've just restored my wheels they were in a bad way, the rims on the standard GS are anodised and in time if you keep using abrasive cleaning products like Autosol you will wear it away as it is not as hard wearing as the hard anodising on the ADV. If you have worn away the anodising on your wheels you can clean them up with rubbing compound & Autosol but they will start to corrode as soon as they get damp, not recomended. Restoring the wheels yourself is the cheapest option but it will be hard work. First remove the spokes, they may be corroded in, if this is the case cut them down with a grinder & hammer them out making sure that you don't mark the rims. Next you will need to rub the rims down with the following:- 180 grit, 400 grit, then 800 grit wet & dry paper, by now you should not have any markes in the rims but they will be dull. Next use rubbing compound either by hand or as I do with a hard mop attached to a drill, tip when using a drill for pollishing cover the chuck with masking tape as one slip = hours of rubbing. Now your wheels are looking great so wash them down with soapy water & when dry finnish them off with Autosol, now your rims look like chrome but they will corrode in damp conditions so send them off to have them re-anodised, this cost me 30.00 for both rims. If your hubs are ok then all you will need now are some stainless steel spokes from Motor Workes, they charged me around 40.00 I think & take them with your rims & hubs to a wheel builder, Important:- before you remove your spokes the hubs on both wheels are off centre you will need to know by how much when you have them re-built. The cost to re-build my wheels was 40.00. I hope this helps anyone who is thnking of re-building their wheels. Sorry about the spelling it's late & it's been a hard day Daz.

 

[Shaunie]

i agree with the hammerite

 

[Richard Russell]

I've got the old Akront non-anodised rims (on a '94 1100GS), and they looked terrible after commuting all through last winter. I cleaned the cack off with steel wool and WD40, then buffed them with autosol. Took a couple of hours per wheel, but they looked good when I'd finished.

This winter they're covered in Wintawax. Once they're stopped salting the roads I'll clean it off and see if it's worked.

 

[Zwerver]

Try : Haan Wheels in Schijndel (Netherlands, near Eindhoven)

 

[Rabbitson]

Thanks for the info guys.

David

 

[mpgscott]

Resurrecting this post from way back.

I had stripped down my spoked GSA wheels and plan was repaint hubs silver and rims black. So firstly wet and dry various grades, then finally warmed up wheels and upol primer. All went on nicely however today the primer is just flaking off the black rims. The hubs seem fine and I’m at a loss as to why it’s taken on one area and not the other.

I had a good key in them and they were clean.

Anything different on the rims metal wise?

So now will need to strip the primer off and just go black onto it me thinks.

Any thoughts?

I’m keen to get a hard finish and intended to lacquer finally as didn’t want them chipping when tyres go on.

Odd.

I’m using hammerite black and silver spray.

As I was doing the hubs silver I put a bit on the rim so I can see tomorrow if it’s staying on.

 

[Pukmeister]

It probably needs an etch primer such as U-pol acid etch #8 to chemically etch itself into the hard anodised skin of the metal.

 

[mpgscott]

It probably needs an etch primer such as U-pol acid etch #8 to chemically etch itself into the hard anodised skin of the metal.

This is the one I used, thought it would work well. It’s worked on the hubs and engine.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Pukmeister]

https://u-pol.com/wp-content/uploads/ACID-8-TDS-EN.pdf

Data sheet gives prep details including suitable degreaser to use.

Allow 24 hours drying time before overcoating despite the data sheet not stating so.

 

[mpgscott]

https://u-pol.com/wp-content/uploads/ACID-8-TDS-EN.pdf

Data sheet gives prep details including suitable degreaser to use.

Allow 24 hours drying time before overcoating despite the data sheet not stating so.

Thanks for that.

Yeh, it’s all the things I did including panel wipe and used 320 grit also.

Weird it’s not taken on the black.

 

[Pukmeister]

The only other prep I can think of that might work is a gentle bead blasting of the alloy prior to acid etch primer.