Runout spec for wire wheels

GSwadd

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Does anyone have the max runout measurement that BMW specify for the 1200GS wire spoke wheels? Just checked my rear wheel yesterday and it has 2mm sideways runout checked with a dial indicator. The hub is true so it is the rim that has the 'buckle'. It's quite noticeable while following the bike and would have thought the wheels would be true from the factory. Bike only has 3000km on the clock. :nenau Just want to know before I approach my local 'don't give a rat's arse as it's not a Harley' BMW dealer! :spitfire
 
Does anyone have the max runout measurement that BMW specify for the 1200GS wire spoke wheels? Just checked my rear wheel yesterday and it has 2mm sideways runout checked with a dial indicator. The hub is true so it is the rim that has the 'buckle'. It's quite noticeable while following the bike and would have thought the wheels would be true from the factory. Bike only has 3000km on the clock. :nenau Just want to know before I approach my local 'don't give a rat's arse as it's not a Harley' BMW dealer! :spitfire


Hi it's not a 12 but I recently rebuilt a 650. The max runout both radialy and lateraly is stated as 2mm each way.

Hope this helps in some way, Val.
 
Hi it's not a 12 but I recently rebuilt a 650. The max runout both radialy and lateraly is stated as 2mm each way.

Hope this helps in some way, Val.

Thanks for that Val. Can't see it being different although I would expect around 0.5mm on a brand new wheel on a $25k motorcycle. Seems to have .8mm lateral runout on the rear disc too, which seems weird on a machined item.
 
My service Manual says 1.5mm but the test is done off bike on a balancer.

Your wheel needs to come off, find the most deviation point and then tighten the spokes up in that area, not just one or 2
 
When I built up my own wire wheels for the R100RS I kept on at them until they were <1mm on both lateral and radial runout.

0.8mm on a disc is waayyy too much. In old money that's 0.03" and I 've found (again on the RS) that anything above 4 thou gives brake shuddering issues.

4 thou = 0.01mm approx.
 
When I built up my own wire wheels for the R100RS I kept on at them until they were <1mm on both lateral and radial runout.

0.8mm on a disc is waayyy too much. In old money that's 0.03" and I 've found (again on the RS) that anything above 4 thou gives brake shuddering issues.

4 thou = 0.01mm approx.

I would expect less tham 1mm runout on a wheel as I watched a 'How it's made' program on push-bikes and a machine trued and torqued the spokes on the wheels, flipping back and forth until there was no runout. I'd expect BMW, or their supplier, to have a similar setup?!? :nenau

The runout on the disc is radial not lateral so, in effect, it looks like it is bouncing up and down as it spins. Still strange on something that has been machined. It's like the pcd has been drilled off-centre to the outside.

If the spokes are to be adjusted to pull back the runout does anyone know the torque they are supposed to have on each? I'd machine a carrier and do the truing in a lathe but don't want spokes snapping while riding cause they are over-torqued on one side.
 
If the spokes are to be adjusted to pull back the runout does anyone know the torque they are supposed to have on each?
From http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html

Nipple on spoke, M4 4 Nm (3 ft-lbs)
Variant, Cross-spoked wheels
Initial torque, spokes, M4 1 Nm (1 ft-lbs)
Variant, Cross-spoked wheels
Counter-hold spokes, M4 1 Nm (1 ft-lbs)
Variant, Cross-spoked wheels
 
i've been told by 2 different wheel builders that you can't true up bmw wheels.

you put them together in a jig, and if they're out of true you do it again.
 
i've been told by 2 different wheel builders that you can't true up bmw wheels.

you put them together in a jig, and if they're out of true you do it again.

Judging by the torque values above I think I'd agree with you cookie. Without loosening the whole show I doubt you could pull back a 2mm bulge and stay within spec. Maybe I approach BMW for a warranty replacement?
 
G'day there banana-bender,
Recently complained about the runout on my 5-month old spoked rims, the dealer principal spun the front on a static balancer, "hmm, that looks to be out a fair bit", ordered a replacement under warranty.
The new replacement arrived and it felt worse. They removed the tyre, spun it on the balancer with a dial indicator on the inside surface of the rim where the tyre seats, measured 1.35mm vertical runout and 1.2mm lateral runout, against BMW's maximum quoted permissable runout of 1.5mm. "Sorry, it's within BMW specs". Interestingly, fitting a new Michelin Pilot Roads after the original Anakee wore out has removed 99% of the problem ; the front end no longer "pulsates" when cranked over on our one smooth road down here ...

Didn't help when a bloke pulled up next to me at the lights recently, "mate, you know your back wheel's buckled ...."

My 1150 has 177,000 on it's spoked rims and they're still better than the crap 1200 rims .....

Good luck with a warranty claim,

Phil
 
Do NOT try and correct the runout - unless you are a wheel builder ... this is no ordinary wheel but cross laced and needs and expert. One can tighten lthe occassional loose spoke if done carefully but I would not try and correct runout myself.
 
Finally got around to seeing the dealer about the rear wheel. Head mechanic came out and spun it around, said "mmmmm" a lot, then tapped the spokes with his pen and noted the dull sound around the buckle with some head shaking! Said "never seen that before on these" to which I mentioned all the posts on here about same problems and he said he'd have to get onto BMW about it. He did point out the little grub screws up the end of the spokes that lock everything in which is why you can't pull it out like a normal spoked wheel.

Rang two weeks later as I'd heard nothing and was informed they were talking to BMW that day (of course, now I reminded them). Another week goes by and I get a call today saying bring it in Tuesday and we can run some tests(?), so I'll take it in and see what they have to say. I measured 2mm lateral runout so it will be interesting to see what they get. They don't seem to be the sharpest tool in the shed so I'm not holding my breath on a good outcome.
 
Runout for wire wheels.

HI
New to this forum, but been riding 1200GS for 2 years. have had two new wheels on 07 GS in last two years and notice front is now buckled 1.8mm by DTi. Having read all these threads on the subject - does anyone recommend a better make of wheel or maybe the alloy solid wheels as speced by BMW for the 1200GS?. I have covered 10,000 Miles, no off road, no kerb hopping, no wheelies or stoppies, just riding!
Cheers
 
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